In two weeks I will be buying my first Honda ever. As the title mentions above, it will be a 1991 Honda Accord LX.
It needs a new alternator belt, power steering belt, battery, driver side door lock, and back wheel.
From what I was told it has some minor rust in the trunk. It has about 240,000 miles on it and I was wondering what are some typical issues I should look out for or expect with this car?
From what I read online for reviews it sounds like a pretty reliable car. Its a auto btw.

 

Alot of views on your thread, but it's seems to be kinda hard to tell ya anything to look out for when it sounds like you're describing a $200 car. I wouldn't pay no more than that anyways.

Welcome to HT.

 

Thanks for the welcome and reply. Yes I am paying a 100 dollars for it. The transmission in my current daily is on its last legs. Its slipping and making hard shifts. A friend is selling me his old car so I can use it as a daily.

 

It's a 25 year old car with 240k miles that sounds like it was neglected in terms of maintenance.

There's potentially a lot that can be wrong with it.

I've got $50 no one knows when the last major service was completed. If you want it to last awhile I'd start with:

- Timing Belt
- Water Pump
- Spark Plugs
- Spark Plug Wires
- IACV/EGR/FITV cleanup
- Engine Oil
- Coolant (would be needed when doing the WP)
- Transmission fluid
- Check axle boots for rips / replace as needed
- Alignment
- New tires/balancing (if needed)
- Pay for someone to professionally steam/shampoo clean the interior
- Replace suspension as needed (if it's on original shocks/struts they probably should be replaced)
- Replace balljoints if needed
- etc

Running Seafoam through it wouldn't be a bad idea either.

 

Check valve adjustment/clearance. Do this when changing the timing belt.
If the front wheel bearings have never been changed it is probably time.
Check for every other inside tread block scalloping on the front tires, properly inflated.

 

While I don't disagree with the intent of the posts above, for a $100 car I would just make sure it is safe. After that, I would not to spend any more than I absolutely had to.
Safety = It starts, it steers, it stops, and it doesn't strand.

I'm not sure about inspections where you are, but around here they are mandatory for any title transfer.


BEFORE buying, check all the critical stuff
Suspension, ball joints, bushings, cv axles, tie rods etc.
Brakes
Tires
Engine, Transmission
Lights, wipers etc.
Frame and subframe
Anything significantly wrong with any of the above, and it's no longer a bargain.

Assuming good so far and you buy it, do the free and almost free stuff
Valve adjustment
Clean and gap plugs
Fluids
Air Cleaner

Beyond that - remember that every time you fill the tank, you doubled the value of the car. If something important wears out, there are hundreds of replacement cars available to you for less than the cost of the part. Find your local pick-a-part place and get an idea where they put their Accords.

To answer your question about common issues with that generation Accord
EGR ports blocked
Leaking oil from the O'Rings around the spark plug tubes getting down in the plug holes causing misfires.
Main relay solder connections
DRL module solder connections (Canada)
Wheel bearings.
Brake rotors are a major PITA.
Distributors

None of the above are overly difficult to diagnose or expensive to correct and have all been covered in various threads on here. Both my 91's went over 300km, and ultimately they were retired due to frame rust, not drivetrain issues.

 

I agree with Big_Eddy on this one. I would add to at least visually check the timing belt. If its dry rotted or oil soaked you should replace it (if it fails you just ruined your engine AND are stranded). If it looks OK, you have to decide how long you will be depending on this vehicle and if its worth spending the time and ~$100 or so for a new kit.

 

I bought this exact car years ago and I just can't rid of it. It's the couple hundred dollar car that just keeps giving.

Some issues I have had to address are:

A few engine mounts
Clogged power steering screen
leaking spark plug tube seals
Rotors(Not as bad as people would lead you to believe, just not as easy as most rotors)
Oil seals under the timing belt
Vehicle speed sensor

Best advice I see here is to cover the basics and make sure it is safe. Stops, goes, suspension is tight and it turns. Then you can do the common issues like leading arm bushings, rear engine mount, distributor o ring and other oil leaks, valve adjustments and timing belt. After that hit the fluids, Plugs and filters. Or just make sure it is safe and drive it into the ground.

 

TheMuffinMan: "It's a 25 year old car with 240k miles that sounds like it was neglected in terms of maintenance.

There's potentially a lot that can be wrong with it.

I've got $50 no one knows when the last major service was completed. If you want it to last awhile I'd start with:

- Timing Belt
- Water Pump
- Spark Plugs
- Spark Plug Wires
- IACV/EGR/FITV cleanup
- Engine Oil
- Coolant (would be needed when doing the WP)
- Transmission fluid
- Check axle boots for rips / replace as needed
- Alignment
- New tires/balancing (if needed)
- Pay for someone to professionally steam/shampoo clean the interior
- Replace suspension as needed (if it's on original shocks/struts they probably should be replaced)
- Replace balljoints if needed
- etc
Running Seafoam through it wouldn't be a bad idea either."


Thanks for the list. I have herd mixed reviews about changing transmission fluid. I have never changed transmission fluid but I was for warned that it can for some reason damage the transmission. I assume this is just a myth then?


MAD_MIKE: "Check valve adjustment/clearance. Do this when changing the timing belt.
If the front wheel bearings have never been changed it is probably time.
Check for every other inside tread block scalloping on the front tires, properly inflated."


I'm sure I can find guides on the form site on how to do this, but what would you rate doing a valve/adjustment and changing the timing belt on a 1-10 scale of difficulty. I have only done simple work on cars like installing speakers, stripping interior, changing a transmission pan gasket, valve cover gasket, breaks and suspension, and changing throttle bodies. Just simple work.


Big_Eddy: "While I don't disagree with the intent of the posts above, for a $100 car I would just make sure it is safe. After that, I would not to spend any more than I absolutely had to.
Safety = It starts, it steers, it stops, and it doesn't strand.


I'm not sure about inspections where you are, but around here they are mandatory for any title transfer.


BEFORE buying, check all the critical stuff
Suspension, ball joints, bushings, cv axles, tie rods etc.
Brakes
Tires
Engine, Transmission
Lights, wipers etc.
Frame and subframe
Anything significantly wrong with any of the above, and it's no longer a bargain.

Assuming good so far and you buy it, do the free and almost free stuff
Valve adjustment
Clean and gap plugs
Fluids
Air Cleaner

Beyond that - remember that every time you fill the tank, you doubled the value of the car. If something important wears out, there are hundreds of replacement cars available to you for less than the cost of the part. Find your local pick-a-part place and get an idea where they put their Accords.

To answer your question about common issues with that generation Accord
EGR ports blocked
Leaking oil from the O'Rings around the spark plug tubes getting down in the plug holes causing misfires.
Main relay solder connections
DRL module solder connections (Canada)
Wheel bearings.
Brake rotors are a major PITA.
Distributors
None of the above are overly difficult to diagnose or expensive to correct and have all been covered in various threads on here. Both my 91's went over 300km, and ultimately they were retired due to frame rust, not drivetrain issues. "


You make a good point about the safety aspect. Thanks for list. Yeah I was gonna head to pick-n-pull to grab quit a bit a parts. Honestly I didnt even think of the solder connections being a issue. How common is it?


masospaghetti: "I agree with Big_Eddy on this one. I would add to at least visually check the timing belt. If its dry rotted or oil soaked you should replace it (if it fails you just ruined your engine AND are stranded). If it looks OK, you have to decide how long you will be depending on this vehicle and if its worth spending the time and ~$100 or so for a new kit. 06-03-2016 11:22 AM"


Thanks for the advice on the belt. If its dry rotted or oil soaked ill just get it towed. Kinda off topic but since you mentioned ruining the engine, is there a large support for engine swaps with this car? Like the civics I mean.


PanhandleTeg: "I bought this exact car years ago and I just can't rid of it. It's the couple hundred dollar car that just keeps giving.

Some issues I have had to address are:

A few engine mounts
Clogged power steering screen
leaking spark plug tube seals
Rotors(Not as bad as people would lead you to believe, just not as easy as most rotors)
Oil seals under the timing belt
Vehicle speed sensor

Best advice I see here is to cover the basics and make sure it is safe. Stops, goes, suspension is tight and it turns. Then you can do the common issues like leading arm bushings, rear engine mount, distributor o ring and other oil leaks, valve adjustments and timing belt. After that hit the fluids, Plugs and filters. Or just make sure it is safe and drive it into the ground. "


What do you mean by the rotors are not as easy as most rotors? Thanks for the advice. I really don't want to run it down to the ground if possible. If it runs good enough, I will be using it as a daily and would like to fix it up a bit as well as gain more experience in working on cars. I understand what you mean though lol

 

So you don't want to be stranded but aren't going to bother replacing a timing belt that probably has 150k miles on it?

Buying a $100 car like that isn't a bargain to begin with *because* it's lacking any maintenance items to keep it up and running on the road.

Spending ~$1k on a car like that would get you a far better example (10 times better I'd bet).

Timing Belt/Water Pump/etc can be done for <$200 with OEM/OEM-equiavlent parts if you've got someone that knows what they're doing. That extends his car's lifetime from blowing up at any point (it's an interference engine) to giving him another 80k miles on it.

Spark plugs aren't expensive, nor are the fluids.

Alignment and tires I'd argue are part safety as well as extending the life of the tires.

 

MuffinMan - I agree 100%. A $100 car is NOT a bargain unless the seller is a good friend doing a favour letting it go for much less than it's worth. By the time you add up new brakes, ball joints, some suspension bushings, a new gas tank or maybe a heater core, you have several hundred dollars parts, plus the initial purchase cost.

OP - Over the years, I don't think I've ever managed to get a car on the road (passing safety) for less than $2000, regardless of how low the purchase cost was. And that's doing the work myself. (Realistically, most $100 cars will NEVER get past a safety inspection and back on the road. They just aren't worth the parts and effort) Keep that in mind before spending $100 on this "bargain" car.

On the timing belt - We present the options and risks, the OP will need to decide. I'm just outlining the case for "the other side". Without records, we have no idea if the TB is new or original. He COULD get another 80K on the existing timing belt, or he could invest $200-$250 on parts, plus a day of labour and then he KNOWS his timing belt and water pump won't fail. But there are lots of other things that could fail before the existing TB does where replacement will exceed the value of the car. Of course - if the TB does fail, the engine is done and therefore the car is too. Is it worth $250 to rule that out, or do you just drive it and replace the car if / when it goes? It's the OP's decision based on his situation, finances, mechanical ability and comfort level.

Personally, given what we know about this cars state of disrepair, I'd pass on it and look for something better.

 

Yep, I'm with you Eddy - and honestly I see the flip side too.

You bought a running car for $100. If it runs and it's safe (relatively) then drive the thing until it dies and scrap it for $300 in metal.