It's no secret that FI FWD Honda's don't get traction easily. and it seems to me that on both B and K series.. actually even with D series, there are OEM AWD solutions that don't appear to be very difficult to convert. I know that in 2016 we have ECU's that do traction control and both gear and speed based boost control, but that only means you are not putting down all your power. now from what I have seen they have got AWD to hold 700whp, this should make for a very fast street car. the parts dont seem oto be very expensive so why aren't more people doing it?

 

people do it .......DA-nines thread which is currently on the front page is doing it. It is alot of work tho, and you need access to the correct parts.Perhaps if there was a bolt on kit it would be more popular

 

I imagine because the build is a very difficult undertaking and requires quite a bit of mechanical and welding knowhow, and would be very expensive to pay someone to complete for you.

 

It's not just "the parts". It's putting them together with the right length and linkages to the chassis and engine to make it all work. It's a very expensive , labor-intensive, and time-consuming conversion. For many enthusiasts, all three of these attributes make an AWD an immediate turn-off.

 

^^^

+1

If CRV or Wago-Van parts bolted right up, there would a whole new class of builds out there.

 

And the fact that your adding more weight to the vehicle. so, I would think if the chassis is nimble to begin with, that after the conversion it might lose that quality even if it might hold the power better. But, it still would be rad to see

 

The reason it's not more popular is its just outside the realm of diy. I'm sure someone could make a passenger and rear mount. Someone could make driveshafts, maybe a weld in differential mount kit or something. This type of swap requires some decently serious fabrication work. I'm currently building mine, while I have no off the wall race shop it's going together with the resources I have available

To remove 90% of the hassle a company would need to produce rear. Trailing arms, a diff mount and the 2 engine mounts and driveshaft. If someone were to do this for a reasonable price they would pop up more often. Until then it's limited to people who can fab.
Also the longevity of these systems is hit or miss above like 450hp. Transfer cases aren't made for this type of abuse. A billet transfer box would clean up most issues.


Most time consuming of my build:

1. Rear trailing arm caused a crap load of suspension geometry problems.

2. Driveshaft adaptation and shortening(CRv, wagon etc) especially since Epic tuning no longer produces driveshaft adapters..

3. Fuel system. Need to use a cell

 

Yeah this isnt a buy parts and install one weekend kind of dealio lol

 

At the track I leave right with the DSM's and Subaru's with my FWD Honda. My Mustang *** rapes the AWD's off the line. I used to have a 95' AWD turbo Talon. AWD breaks a lot of stuff and there is more stuff to break. My Talon spent most of its life on jack stands.

 

Its a DSM so...

 

Yeah I learned the hard way...

 

I stocked piled all the parts for an awd conversion, im using the info ive gathered here on HT. there are a couple different ways to do it, im using stock eg rear trailing arms/RT4WD trailing arms hybrid, RT4WD rear diff and drive shaft, and a b20 awd manual trans. From what i have read the rear tires only spin after the front tires slip and its only about 1/5 the rotational speed of the front tires with the front doing 80 of the spinning. still i feel like the rear will help you get traction faster but then add in all the extra weight from the rear diff, axles, hybrid trailing arms and driveshaft. not too sure if it really helps in the end but im still going to do it just to do it and see for myself. a lot of people speculate and i want to know for sure.

 

You broke stuff all the time just 'cuz DSM.. .. I used to have a 1GA. Always carried a tool box in it

 

Well it's obvious that it helps with turbo builds, Drob has videos on youtube proving that. Furthermore, why is everyone bringing up the weight as a big deal? Even with the extra weight on say a heavier integra, you still would weigh a lot less than a comparable evo.

It's a totally worthwhile swap, and I do wish to see them more often. It would be ideal to me to have an awd rsx someday. K power + turbo and less traction problems = win.

 

Less traction problems turn into drive train problems if your making decent power in an awd car. Just ask any wrx owner lol ;-) On my next build I will settle for r888s, bbg, and good suspension.

 

Yeah i didnt honestly think of the total weight of the car. With all the extra parts itll still be under 3k lbs. Also will be dropping the fuel tank for a fuel cell so there is way less weight as far as fuel goes. Im going to start in the high 300's whp and see how the driveshaft along with all the fab work holds up and hopefully no binding of the rear axles. Since im using the RT4WD rear diff and using a b20 trans ill have to run a slightly bigger tire in the rear to compensate for the difference in gear ratios. The axles and rear diff from the RT4WD is was stronger then the crv. If you look at the rear axles on a crv theyre seriously super small and i doubt will last under any kind of abuse. Also there is a AWD k20 EG hatch on youtube somewhere.