B20B GSR Head what now??
Hello ppl! I Just did a vtec conversion on my DA
B20B GSR Head p28 cold air intake and full exhaust.
Motor runs decent my only concern so far is that it feels like its lacking in 1st and 2nd as if its less responsive and lacking the torque I once had on the b20 before the conversion. Now what pops in my head first is that it needs a tune. Maybe GSR basemap? If you can please shoot me your thoughts and yes I am a noob at all this -_-
B20B GSR Head p28 cold air intake and full exhaust.
Motor runs decent my only concern so far is that it feels like its lacking in 1st and 2nd as if its less responsive and lacking the torque I once had on the b20 before the conversion. Now what pops in my head first is that it needs a tune. Maybe GSR basemap? If you can please shoot me your thoughts and yes I am a noob at all this -_-
No basemap would be best. Your dealing with a motor combination that was never designed by Honda, therefore the only way to get it running correctly is with a real tune for your exact setup. Basemaps are not supposed to be running your car, they exist solely to get you to a dyno/tuner so you can PROPERLY tune your setup. Also driving the thing on a stock P28 ecu is incredibly stupid, as the fueling maps are for a 1.6 SOHC and you are surprised they don't run well on 2.0 DOHC hybrid motor. If you MUST get a basemap, and again this is totally not ideal, but if you must, contact a reputable tuner such as Phearable.net, Xenocron, HAMotorsports etc. and have them write you a chip for your setup. This should atleast get it running, but I honestly wouldn't expect it to run well or stay alive for very long as a daily driver without getting a proper tune for your exact setup.
someone could share a basemap of stock b20vtec so you can have a good starting point if you want to street tune it yourself.
if bottom and top are bone stock.
just to give you an idea of how sensitive it is to changes
I went from 13.5 to 14.8 on the top end just from upgrading to a better (tuned length intake ) I loaded my old map after a tune just to see and afr was way too lean
if bottom and top are bone stock.
just to give you an idea of how sensitive it is to changes
I went from 13.5 to 14.8 on the top end just from upgrading to a better (tuned length intake ) I loaded my old map after a tune just to see and afr was way too lean
I would recommend running the engine setup on a properly basemaped ecu.
The most cost effective solution would be to either order a DIY chip kit and chip the ecu your self. (Requires the proper tools & experience).
ECU Chipping Kit - Phearable.net
Alternately you could order a pre-chipped obd1 vtec ecu or mail your ecu in to be chipped.
Chipped P28 ECU - Obd1 Vtec Engine Computer - Phearable.net
Ecu Chipping Service - Phearable.net
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OK so I had someone do a basemap. It runs noticeably smoother. I plan on spending 1000 on the next mod but I don't know what direction to go and yes I will tune after this next mod. I appreciate those replies btw, sorry for the delayed response.
I've only been taking it out maybe once a week but ill have it sit now, I have another car for a daily but I really want to get my $'s worth when I tune so id rather add more and then tune, rather than have to tune it twice..so that's why I am seeking on what to do next. something within a 1000 budget.
If you have access to a chip burner and a spare blank chip i can send you a few good B20VTEC basemaps for Crome to try and see which works best for you in the mean time. Before i went boosted and S300 with my old B20V in the EM1 i used Crome to tune the NA setup myself and came up with some decent BINs, so i have no problem sharing.
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