Okay, I know that this topic has been discussed, but I still don't have a plan, so here goes.

My 99 CR-V is crappin' out. It's got the typical valve issue that everyone already knows about, and I feel like I'm on my last leg with drive ability here, so I need to act.

My 99 CR-V is a 5-speed, and I LOVE it! It drives like the Honda's I've always loved, and I want to keep it around.

I want to CR-VTEC it in the best way I can (I'm going to try to do most of the work that I can myself (aside from any machine work, obviously).

I would like any and all recommendations on how to start - I would ideally like to use a type-r head, but a gs-r head would be okay, I suppose.
I need to know what I should do to start: should I buy a stripped down head and work on it from scratch? What about professional porting and polishing? Would that help much? What about the intake manifold? Which one should I get and should I have it ported and polished, as well?

I have read many comments about CR-VTEC's not being reliable after about 7500rpm, but others state that it's simply all about the build quality and what you put into it. Info needed here, because I don't mind putting money/work into it up front to ensure reliability.

Finally, what parts should I replace on my current CR-V and what one's should I just keep (to be fully reliable in case I want to occasionally blow past 8,000rpms)?

I Thank everyone in advance for your help, even though I'm sure an amalgam of posts would equal my answer.

Joe

 

start with the essentials of the conversion if you are set on doin b20vtec
headstuds ,vtec conversion kit, distributor harness depending what year distributor you will need and jumper harmess and vtec sub harness. these parts are a must .
only the distributor conversion harness will be a variable if you got with a 10 pin obd2 style distributor or obd1 2 plug style ..i went with the newer distributor as they are more abundant.
as for the head get the most complete head as possible , and make sure to get the powersteering bracket that comes with the head top and bottom and you can bolt on your existing powersteering pump, all b series are the same difference is snall port which is older ps pump and big port which is the one you have , and dont forget the bolts for the ps pump bracket you cannot use the existing ones they are different length.
next if you didnt get obd2 head, you will need to get integra obd2 injectors they are different length with the crv. so best is to get an obd2 complete head and intake manifold. if you get a gsr stick with the dual runner intake manifold i did the type r style you get more top end but its really not usuable power most of the torque is right at 3-6k rpm.
obd1 gsr ecu will be best, for startup till you do a tune, ive stayed stock gsr obd1 i still have a turbo kit to install
while you are at it , get gsr timing belt and water pump
if you are planning to go past 8k, then if your gonna pull out the rods for rod bolts minus well do type r style pistons. then you minus well do a full rebuild .
next will be for you to figure out your beather system, by doing b20vtec you have no pcv system,this is a must or you will have oil leaks everytime, you can do valve cover breather or block breather...so you will need to buy a oil catch can , or cheapest way around it will be drill a hole on your oil cap and shove a pcv in it.
ive drove my setup for 40k miles and no problems still dailying it ..i never take it to 8k rpm i just feel it doesnt need it.
make sure you keep your throttle body to make things easier so you keep your tb cable
good luck
you can look at my crv its in the for sale section
and buy yourself some timingbelt covers theres a how to make the timingbelt cover fit a b20/ls vtec tutorial somewhere in ht
and new honda valve cover gasket set with distributor o ring and cam seal and cam cap seal

 

Check the all motor section. A lot of b20/vtec guys on there. If I had a 1st gen I would do the same. Search up "reliable ls/vtec" it should give you a general Idea on what to do.

 

I also have crv 99 awd picked it up about 7/8 weeks ago put about a 1000 miles and motor last week just locked up. Lol everyone saying dumb *** me low on oil but never really seem to be low but when drained oil nothing but cat hair! Should have changed oil day 1 but here I go now. Going into the car soon like this week will be a b18c head had Omni valve train plan to use stage 1 blox/skunk onto low comp block. Reason for low comp block as heavy as crv is I'm afraid it's gonna feel like b16 in 4door 91 integra but the sound of vtec and no punch. So maybe after about a month of b20v wanna have bundled up my parts to add a turbo kit. I'm sure making power is no problem but probably cap it at around 325 and not kill motor 2 fast.

 

As of now I have a b18c Omni(vt) have extra head at machine shop hoping they will take in for some porting work but will see. Arp head studs. B20v conversion kit. B20b block. Stage 3 clutch. P28 and jumper
STILL NEED arp rod bolts. Figure out my dizzy situation. Probably get a commetic gasket. Put all together. FUTURE plan within next few weeks would be victor X 70mm tb. HEADER is issue being awd besides obx what could we use? And it's a must to attack rear end. Most likely on that end going element rear diff. But any oem swap axels for rear ?

 

RD Design,

Wow! Nice description. I looked for your CR-V for sale, but could not find it. Link?

It sounds like I should try to do a complete rebuild if I want to feel secure taking it to red line occasionally.

I'm pretty much a newbie in doing all of this stuff, so maybe I should consider taking it to a shop and letting them do the work?
I am in the Jacksonville area. I searched for local shops and found one, but a recommendation from someone here based on actual experience would be much better, in my opinion.

What do you think?

 

if you have a decent socket set and torque wrench , you should be ok... the only specialty tool you will really need is a feeler gauge and crank pulley holder to remove the crank pulley

there are great DIY in HT.. im a little bias been doing this for 17 years already..
just click on my name and click on threads i created it should show up on my for sale

 

I know this guy in Fl all he ever talks about is his crv kinda pain in the *** but will help you out a lot. Xavier Frankenstein On FB

 

Thats a very.....silly reason to pick a low compression block instead of a high compression block.

 

Even without knowing your mileage a complete rebuild will be beneficial. Even if its just a refreshed bottom end. Meaning keep the same piston and rods but new rings and rod bolts and bearings, new crank bolts and bearings, hone cylinder walls.

You need goals in order to really know what you need....

 

On a rebuild i would never use the b20 stock pistons , i would want the room to expand by having piston valve relief for higher lift cams and cam gear adjustment for sure ..that is were alot of the power is hidden piston cams and cam gear ..

 

no goals posted, if this is just to add vtec than a refresh is fine.

 

sounds a great idea are all crv engines backwards compatible