Hello,

First time posting here, hoping I can get some advice.

I have a 91 Accord which sometimes wouldn't start on hot days after it had been driven a while, until it cooled down. So I ordered a new main relay hoping to fix it. Well it fixed it alright!

I unplugged the wires from the old one, they were a little hard to get off so I left it unplugged for a day or two while I didn't need the car and was waiting on the new relay.

So when the new relay arrives I plug it in and I just hear a click, no crank, no start. I plug the old relay back in, same result. I've checked all the fuses under the hood and by the drivers side floorboard. I also tried jump starting with another car in case the battery was dead, but it doesn't seem to be that.

Searching online hasn't turned up a lot, I haven't found anyone else who had this problem. But I do wonder if I blew something because I didn't unplug the battery first.

Thanks,
Andy H.

 

This sounds like a starter to me. I had the exact symptoms with my car, searched around, did a few tests and discovered it was the starter. My symptoms were: power to the dash (headlights, radio, etc), no crank, battery worked fine, even put a different battery in and tried that. If you have power then lets test the starter.

So, how to determine if it is or not without pulling the whole thing? What I did was I had someone hit the side of the starter closest to the rear of the car (the starter motor was my rear, it varies per auto/ manual so check yours) with a hammer. Hit the motor firmly but not hard enough to do damage. Do this while you have the key in the crank position (need two people to do this). Be sure to have the car in park with the ebrake on in case the car jolts when it starts. If the car starts, be warned you may not have another free start.

DIY replacement is pretty straightforward and used parts cost $65-85 CAD.
New costs more of course or you could diagnose if its the motor or the solenoid and then repair your current part. Easy to determine once you pull the part.

So my question before you head down that road is whether or not there is power with the key in (1st position)? If there is then try this, if you have no power whatsoever, it could be something else.

Good Luck!

Edit: Tap firmly a few times with the hammer vs hitting it once

 

Thanks for the reply.

I tried tapping on it with a hammer while someone else was turning the key, nothing happened. The starter doesn't make any noise either.

After that we pulled off the electrical connection to the starter, got out a meter and connected it to the wire, and put the other on the negative on the battery. We tried turning the key and weren't seeing any power at all.

I don't think the starter is getting power. The cable to the main relay was tough to remove and I was worried when I finally pulled it off that I might have jerked a connection nearby loose, but I've looked and looked and can't see anything.

What are some other possibilities?

Andy H.

 

So with the key in the ignition you have no power? Even before you crank it?

Before we get ahead of ourselves, have you put a different battery in and tried to start the car? There's a chance that it is still your battery, even though you said you jumped it.

As for the main relay, that is usually a noticeable problem when the car can crank but doesn't catch... or catches then immediately dies.

I would say (assuming you have no power to the dash already) borrow a battery from another car, plug her in and then start the car. If she starts, you need a new battery. If you have power to the dash but a no crank then it could still be the starter but I'll get back on that one. Do let me know if you have power to the dash already, does change things.

Cheers

 

Check the clutch switch at the pedal. Sometimes the plastic grommet that the switch engages breaks apart. It's possible your battery is dead and you need a jump.

 

I do see lights that come on when I put the key in, and headlights work, etc.

So I reconnected the starter, tried another battery in it but the same result -- just a click. I can feel which relay is clicking, if that matters.

As far as the plastic grommet on the pedal, it looks like at some point that was replaced with a small bolt and nut, and that's in place.

Andy H.

 

My idea is still that either the starter motor or the solenoid is bust. The hammer trick does not always work unfortunately so getting an accurate answer that way can be tough.

Engine Won't Crank or Start

This website was useful for me in diagnosing my problem. I also found a youtube clip and another site that shows how to bench test a starter. I took two videos myself and can upload those if you are still confused. On the accord starters, there is a bolt and a little connector, those are the guys you connect with the screwdriver.

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-...r-bench-test-1

I highly recommend bench testing the starter. If it pops out and spins then your starter is most likely okay. If it is hesitant and you have good connection then starter is likely the problem. If it does pop out and spin and then the next time doesn't then it is still likely the starter. Mine did nothing when i first tested it and then a week after I tested it again and I had a pop and spin.. Definitely a dud though.

Hope these help. If not follow the first website and try to determine the cause.

 

The starter could be bad, but from my earlier test of taking the wire off and trying to crank the car the meter didn't show any power going to the starter wire to begin with.

Essentially I did what this guy did in this video at 6:24:

Again, thanks to everyone for the advice,
Andy H.

 

G3 Starter Rebuild - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

 

See if you can jump the starter solenoid to get the car running. I haven't done this myself so I recommend doing your own research. Another thing would be to check the basic cables and ground, also the ignition switch. May be able to test power to the ignition switch but am not sure.

In a rush but some ideas.. You could also see these articles:

Starter Problem Troubleshooting
No Power To My Starter

Again, good luck and let us know when you figure it out.

 

https://honda-tech.com/tech-misc-15/...mp%5D-2961164/ basic stuff. 94

 

If you are not getting power on the small wire going to the starter solenoid when trying to start the car, it is not the starters fault.

If the car is a manual trans, there are TWO switches on the clutch pedal. The lower one is for the cruise control, the upper one is the inhibitor for the starter circuit. Also if a manual, there is a starter relay in the circuit as well.

Then, does the car have an aftermarket alarm system on it?

 

Sorry for the delayed response.

I hooked up a wire with an alligator clip to the starter wire, with it still plugged into the starter (it's hard to get it clipped onto the starter connector alone) then touched it to the positive and the car started right up. I drove it around the block, seems fine.

This car is an automatic. I've been looking for some kind of "neutral safety switch" but I really haven't found a clear example of what to look for online.

As far as alarm systems, I bought this car used years ago and it came with a two-button fob. "WASP Auto Security Systems." In the many years I've had the car I've really never used it, nor had a problem with it in the many times I've plugged and unplugged batteries and things. When this problem popped up I DID put a new battery in the fob which I still had and pushed the buttons to try and clear anything. It chirped and the alarm went off, but I don't think the security system is the issue.

Again, thanks for the help,
Andy H.

 

Yup, what's probably happened, is the copper disc in the solenoid has gotten a carbon layer on it creating a "dead" spot. I've run into this many times on GM's over the years. On them, you'd pull the plastic cover off the end of the solenoid, and flip the copper disc over, and reassemble it, and be on your way. I don't know if Honda used a similar set up or not. Something I've also found that's kind of interesting, is that if you want just a solenoid from someplace like the Zone, you can actually by the whole starter (including the solenoid) for about 10 bucks more. I don't know why this is, but it is something I've ran into.

 

I mentioned in post #8 that I didn't see voltage going to the starter to begin with. When I did the test as shown in that video at 6:24, it wasn't seeing any voltage when we turned the key to (attempt to) crank the car.

I'm fairly novice at this, but this test along with me being able to start the engine by putting power directly onto the starter makes me think it's not the starter, but something further upstream.

Andy H.

 

If you have a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter), you can check for power at the clutch safety switch, to see IF the switch is actually closing, allowing power to pass thru. Poorman212 mentioned a relay too, and you'd have to check it as well. I couldn't tell you where to find it though. In a pinch, you could take a jumper wire (with some aligator clips on the ends), and go from the clutch safety switch to the terminal on the starter, and see if it starts (that'll tell you if it's the relay, and or it's wiring).

 

Ok start with the clutch safety switch. It should close when the pedal is pressed. Test for continuity. I believe the starter cut relay is in the dash fuse assembly. Test that next. If you have an aftermarket alarm its possible the starter kill function is malfunctioning as the car warms up. You may need to bypass it. This happens more than you think, especially with Viper alarms.

 

If the car is an auto. try shifting to neutral and starting it.

 

Yes, this. If it still fails to start, then you need to remove the cover for the shifter, so you can access the neutral safety switch.