Hi All

I have a 2001 AUDM DC2R (11:1 CR). Current mods:
PLM 4-1 Header
2.5" Exhaust
Comptech Icebox

Looking at cam upgrades. Now, because I have 01 DC2R, apparently they came out with CTR intake cam, so finding a cam upgrade that is worthwhile, without going too big is difficult, so I would like some help. I am after more midrange power, not big on peak numbers as this is a daily car and not tracked. More aggressive VTEC would be nice aswell. Not fussed if idle is sacrificed a bit as car is driven twice a week (but a tiny bit lumpy does sound cool) . Happy to leave redline at stock 8600 unless the Cam is designed to make power past that point.

Are these part choices a good match?:
Hondata S300
Supertech dual valve springs and retainers
AEM tru time cam gears
Skunk2 tuner series stage 2 B series cams (would like some BC3+ but cant find any).

Feel free to comment and or recommend other parts better or more suited or anything else I am missing.

1.Do I need bigger injectors? (want to avoid if possible),
2. Do I need to upgrade retainers aswell??
3. Do I need to upgrade values? (want to avoid if possible)
4. Rough tuning time? If I can get a camshaft which is almost drop in with little tuning time that would be a bonus too.

Again, please bare in mind I have CTR cam shaft which came with the 2001 ITR, so I am after a cam where I will notice a difference.

 

Without increasing the displacement, I don't think you get a noticeable/significance gain in the mid-range with just upgrading to a mild aftermarket CAMs. From reading your post, I think the best route to go is upgrade to a 4.9FD and call it the day.

 

^ Agree with the above post for the most part.

If you havnt yet, and I may have missed it in your post, you could get a solid dyno tune on Hondata/Neptune/AEM and make good power and probably be happy for a bit.

If you are dead set on cams, BC spec 3+'s and cam gears and throwing on a Mugen/Spoon headgasket and a good tune will yield solid results. I ran this on my first R and it was great. If you go this route you will need injectors and I would suggest RDX given the price and capability.

 

Id say cams are best when you have other supporting mods to help benefit the longer duration cams, such as head or port work. Cams are one of the last things I would mod if the car is mostly stock otherwise.

I agree that a standalone ecu tune like hondata/neptune/aem/etc can help power and mid range on a mostly stock ITR. Add in a quality header, intake, and exhaust along with a 4.7 or 4.9 FD will probably be much more noticable and fun to drive.

For the record I had good luck with JUN 3 cams on an old ITR build with intake, throttle body, manifold etc. I think I had 440cc injectors. Injectors can be sized to the amount of horsepower expected but you dont want to max duty cycle and want room to grow. And I dont think a street cam is really going to give you a lumpy idle. Youd have to have a pretty aggressive cam to see that kind of thing. The tune can eliminate some of that as well. Springs and retainers are a good idea. Be careful of ti retainers with really aggressive cams as ti retainers can wear out. Valves not really necessary unless you intend to do porting and custom valve jobs.

FYI we have the same license plate

 

4.9 is an awesome idea never even thought of it. Would it be the cheaper option or not as the gearbox needs to come apart? Can you recommend good brands that make a reputible final drive?

 

MFactory and ATS make 4.9FD for the B-series. Not sure if OBX does but I wouldn't go there anyway. ATS, by far, is more common and is the best imo.

 

+1 on the FD. Made this upgrade on my GSR to the JDM final drive and it was one of the most noticeable single mods. I swapped in the MFactory 4.9 on the R and it was awesome to drive. If you do a lot of freeway driving it may get tiresome given at 70 mph you will be cruising around 5000 rpms if I remember correctly.

 

LS or GSR 5th will help take care of that.

 

What is the OEM final drive in AUSM ITR's? Is it 4.4 or 4.7xx like the JDM one's?

My first vote would be the JDM 4.7xx final drive. Easily one the single best mods I've ever done. Increases acceleration from our torqueless motors. Mate that to a light flywheel and you are set.

Cams, as a single mod, are kinda useless in a Honda motor and I wouldn't consider them a "drop in". You want a lumpy idle, look at Skunk2 Pro cams. But you need displacement, headwork, c/r bump, etc to get the benefit out of them.

Take it from someone with a completely built B18C5, leave the motor alone. Get your bolt-ons done, get a new F/D and F/W, get some tuning software and get it tuned. BAM! enjoy your caR!

You're welcome

 

Yup.

 

Aussie ITR are 4.7 FD. By F/W i guess you mean flywheel? What other boltons would you suggest considering the ones i already have? Is it worth upgrading IM and throttle body?

 

Your questions reminding me of the Disney animation "The Jungle Book". "Now Don't Start THAT again!"

You have to think of your engine as a vacuum pump. If you increase the size of the intake like the IM and throttle body, you have to do the same thing for the combustion chamber and the exhaust system. In this regard, the term "fully build" comes to my mind.

Just so you know where my thought comes from, after the start of this season, I'm pretty much going back to stock. The only mods would be Comptech intake for the sound, Toda flywheel for quick rev and ATS 4.9FD for quick acceleration. DONE!

 

Im in the same boat. I think most of us that have been there and back, are staying relatively stock these days. Its easier, usually more reliable, less expensive.

 

May be a stupid question but does a lighter flywheel effect the tune? If i get one installed after the tune will it need to be retuned to really benefit from the flywheel?

 

5.1 mFactory final drive
LS 5th gear
Lightweight chromoly flywheel
S300 or the equivalent tuned.

Perfect for stock type r.

If you must get cams:

Skunk2 tuner stage2 with the appropriate skunk2 valve train... but I'd recommend super tech titanium retainers and dual valve springs... then a tune.

 

GS-R 5th only. I fell for the LS 5th gear and dropped the whole car out of its powerband. no kidding.
ATS FD on B16 Transmission 12.3:1 compression TODA RACING SPEC B Camshaft.

 

Absolutely. Replacement to lighter flywheel will effects both torque and HP of the engine "OUTPUT". However, too light of a flywheel might cause derivable issue from a dead stop. But, a little rev will fix that as long as you are not driving with stage 3 clutch. As for which 5th gear to use with the 4.9FD, go with the GSR one. You'll be shooting yourself in the foot if you if you use the LS one. BTW, no question(s) is stupid

 

Agreed but also depends. If this guy isnt tracking the car then LS 5th is fine for highway cruising though it makes 5-4 downshifts a little weird.

 

No track work at all, purely a weekend warrior.

 

It still is terrible. Highway "crusing" or not. why downshift if you don't have to. Best thing I ever did to that car was get rid of that LS 5th. Even in normal driving. Awful. Awful.. DAMNED Awful.



































One more..... AWFUL!

 

 

I see. The OEM 4.4 to the 4.7xx was enough of an upgrade for me. Cool yours comes with it already. So yes, you can upgrade to the ATS 4.9 as others have mentioned and play around other gearing configurations. It's really your best bang for buck without building the whole motor.

Correct. I prefer as light as possible so I went with a Fidanza 7lb but there are plenty of nice options.

It's a slippery slope honestly. Start with intake, header, exhaust. Then cams, valvetrain, headwork. Then bottom end work, then........................keep it simple with a nice intake, header, exhaust set-up and nice tune along with the trans mods. Tires and brakes and you're set.

I went through all the stages. Light bolt-ons, then ALL the bolts on, hit 197whp, then built the whole motor, put down 230whp, now satisfied with it from an all motor perspective while retaining the stock motor. Bottom line, go big or go home. Spending thousands to get 20whp gets old and annoying.

 

A light flywheel does not affect the tune at all, whatsoever. A light flywheel is 100% bolt-on with no tune needed.

Keep the stock 5th, I don't even like the GSR 5th. I also don't recommend the ATS FD, I've had too many transmissions come in to get the ATS 4.9 replaced after it broke.

 

never heard of that before in 18 years of dealing with ATS.

Could it also be installer and/or driver error? "Banging" through the gears trying to drag race, when that's not what it was for? not following install instructions?

Please elaborate, Aquafina, if you would be so generous.

 

Not install error and these were all track cars, not drag cars (doesn't make a difference anyways on low power street tire setups). Poor heat treatment and a rather crappy tooth profile is my opinion on why they break.