I'm relatively new to this, but my CV axle needs replacing and it didn't seem too complicated. I'm following this guide mostly: https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...l-pics-382416/, and I understand what I need to do, but I keep getting hung up getting nuts and bolts off.

The axle nut took two days (and a ton of liquid wrench).

Another few hours (and two broken ratchets) for the 17mm castle nut. (I wound up jacking next to the ball joint and using a 3' cheater.)

Before pulling anything else apart, I figured I'd better test and see if I could get the other pieces loose. I can't get the drain plug to budge. I'm not exactly ripped, so I tried kicking the ratchet. Tried taking a hammer to it. No dice. Haven't even tried the fill plug, and I still have the through bolt on the lower control arm to tangle with. (Not to mention getting the old axle out.)

So I need tips. I've pre-soaked everything I have left in liquid wrench-- what else can I do? I hear heat's a valid strategy-- is it safe to take a propane torch to the stuff I've got left? Anything else I can try?

 

Liquid wrench is crap. I suggest a breaker bar with a pipe extension if need be. make sure you have good sockets. Also, try something like Kroil or CRC freeze off (This one is my favorite, I got a frozen bolt off that wouldnt come out even after standing on a 4ft cheater pipe)

 

You don't have to drain the tranny fluid to remove the axle however a torch might just do the trick.

 

Are you unstaking the axle nut? If you don't it's going to be pretty hard to loosen that nut.

 

Haha, holy crap, yeah, I unstaked it first thing. That would've sucked even more to try to get off.

Good to know. It'll leak some, though, right? I was figuring it'd be a good time to go ahead and replace it. Not sure when it was last done (never by me, and I've put about 70,000 mi on the car.) If I can't get the bolts off I might just save it for another day, though.

I'll check out CRC Freeze Off-- never heard of it, but ice sounds less dodgy than an open flame and there's no room for 4 ft cheaters.

Gonna see about getting stuff broken loose these next few days.

 

Sometimes it's best to just take it to a shop and have em crack it loose. Then retighten it for you when you get home.

The tranny will not leak any fluid unless you tilt it.

 

Crc freeze off is like pb blaster. Ymmv however ad I said it did work for me on frozen bearing bolts. As suggested before perhaps get a shop to loosen them or ply some friends with air tools with beer and pizza

 

Go to harbor freight and buy the electric 1/2" impact for $40 with a coupon and then get the impact sockets you need for $20.

If you have more cash to spend and plan on doing more work, get the 21 gallon 2.5hp oiled air compressor for $150 and the earthquake 1/2" impact for $77 and you will be set. I have that setup and its done everything i asked of it. Took the axle nut right off even though i didn't have it fully unstaked. The impact has a ton of power and would be a monster with a larger air compressor.

 

Spray with Move It penetrating oil, leave overnight, use breaker bar, do not use heat unless you want to replace the bearings. 94

 

I disagree. I think the hub and bearing see more heat directly from hard braking and overtorquing of the axle nut than from a torch to the axle nut.

 

If you do go the torch route, make sure to heat the nut. If you already don't have the wheels off take them off, especially AL rims. Purpose of the heat is to shock the material to break it free if it has been rusted or galled the threads a bit. Torch the nut then hit it with the wrench or impact gun if you have one.
I think you are confusing BTU of the flame vs brake temps.
If you are hard on your brakes then 450°F is what they may reach.
Propane flame is about ~3000°F and MAP is about 5000°F, and the BTUs are in the 300-450 range.

 

lol I'm not advocating trying to melt the axle nut, I'm saying just hit it for a second to help to expand it.

 

He's not doing the axle nut. He is talking about drain fill and suspension bushing bolts. So perhaps we all need to rethink the concentration of efforts here.

 

It's funny, originally I noted he already took the axle nut off but when I came back to this thread and saw about taking the axle nut off I completely forgot. I think the cv axle replacement thread title helped confuse us lol

 

Hey, yeah, guys, sorry for the confusion with the title-- the axle nut was rough, but if I've got room for a long bar I'm golden. Finished the job this weekend. CRC Freeze Off worked like a charm on that stubborn through bolt, so thanks for the tip.

I'll have to look into that electric impact gun-- sounds almost too good to be true, lol.

Anyway, thanks a ton!

 

I've had a couple of those electric impacts. They are OK, certainly better than nothing. But they are big and heavy.

I have a small 1 HP oiled air compressor and I've used pneumatic impact guns with it. Even the small crappy Craftsman gun that comes as a freebie with the compressor was stronger than my electric. Probably better to go this route if you do much wrenching as it allows use of other pneumatic tools that are useful.

However, I DO recommend the cordless electric impacts. They are small and easy to use and have enough power for 90% of the stuff you will encounter. The really stuck stuff you can bring out the pneumatic gun. I have a 200 ft-lbs Craftsman which has been awesome. Once you have one you will NOT go back, I promise.