I need to flush my power steering fluid
Hey guys
I was replacing my inner tie rods/rack ends due to a clunking.
When I pulled the bellows boot this red fluid came dripping out, I think it was stop leak. Funny thing is I think it worked, I had no idea the rack was leaking.
I was going to flush the system out before I condemn the rack.
I'm guessing the best way is to drain and fill, turn lock to lock, then repeat until clear?
I was also wondering if it was ok to use the Prestone Honda formula fluid for the flushing, then final fill with honda genuine?
Thanks in advance.
I was replacing my inner tie rods/rack ends due to a clunking.
When I pulled the bellows boot this red fluid came dripping out, I think it was stop leak. Funny thing is I think it worked, I had no idea the rack was leaking.
I was going to flush the system out before I condemn the rack.
I'm guessing the best way is to drain and fill, turn lock to lock, then repeat until clear?
I was also wondering if it was ok to use the Prestone Honda formula fluid for the flushing, then final fill with honda genuine?
Thanks in advance.
Red fluid, in a honda, is the color of honda brand transmission fluid. Honda brand power steering fluid, when new, is clear. When old, power steering fluid is brown or black. I don't know the color of stop leak. I guess I'm saying I suspicion that the leak is transmission fluid.
Replacing honda power steering fluid is generally done by just using a turkey baster and sucking all the fluid out of the reservoir and then refilling it with new fluid. Then you drive it around a few minutes and repeat the procedure several times (because the amount you remove from the reservoir is just a fraction of the total fluid in the system you're just diluting it each time you do it) until the color of the fluid is gets significantly clearer. Some people try to do a complete removal and replacement by removing the return hose (from the pump to the reservoir), and try to refill the reservoir as fast as it drains out, with the car running, but the pump runs really fast, and if the pump runs dry it can be immediately ruined. Check out video by NutzaboutBolts if you want to try the second way, but I do it the first, safer way.
I second the turkey baster idea.
I've had a little bit of fluid accumulate inside the bellows before. I think the grease used to lubricate the rack separates a bit. I've had it happen on a freshly rebuilt rack.
I've had a little bit of fluid accumulate inside the bellows before. I think the grease used to lubricate the rack separates a bit. I've had it happen on a freshly rebuilt rack.
It can't be from my tranny, I have a manual and changed the fluid lady week. Honda MTF looks like motor oil if I remember right, but it definitely isn't red. I have used stop leak before (lucas is red) but not on this car.
I would have figured just drain, then fill, run the car, then repeat would be the best option.
Is it okay to use Prestone to flush, then final fill with Honda PSF?
There is actually no way to flush with the turkey baster approach. You remove some old, add some new, and when the car runs the system mixes it all together and the new fluid with the old becomes a somewhat diluted old+ new mix. Then you remove part of the diluted old+new mix and add in more new, and drive it and it mixes again and you have a more-diluted old+new. Then add more new and drive it again .... I repeat it until the fluid looks more like tea than strong coffee myself. To truly flush it you need to take it somewhere they have a machine or try the too-tricky-to-risk-it maneuver of simultaneous drain and fill. So, the upshot is, using the manual method, any prestone or other grade fluid you use will remain even if you use Honda fluid last. So, personally, I don't recommend using anything other than Honda brand.
There is actually no way to flush with the turkey baster approach. You remove some old, add some new, and when the car runs the system mixes it all together and the new fluid with the old becomes a somewhat diluted old+ new mix. Then you remove part of the diluted old+new mix and add in more new, and drive it and it mixes again and you have a more-diluted old+new. Then add more new and drive it again .... I repeat it until the fluid looks more like tea than strong coffee myself. To truly flush it you need to take it somewhere they have a machine or try the too-tricky-to-risk-it maneuver of simultaneous drain and fill. So, the upshot is, using the manual method, any prestone or other grade fluid you use will remain even if you use Honda fluid last. So, personally, I don't recommend using anything other than Honda brand.
How many quarts should I run through the system to flush?
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Just me but remove the hoses from the res and plug them or put a pan under them.
Drain the res and then use some brake cleaner to clean the screen at the bottom of the res.
The prestone fluid made for Acura/Honda will be fine.
Drain the res and then use some brake cleaner to clean the screen at the bottom of the res.
The prestone fluid made for Acura/Honda will be fine.
Here's PS fluid replacement process for '97 Integra directly from the service manual (I doubt the '95 Accord system would be unflushable given this info, in fact I'd lay odds it will probably follow same procedure):
Disconnect the return line from reservoir
Connect a suitable hose to disconnected return line, run hose to drain container
Idle engine, turn wheel lock to lock until fluid ceases to come from return line
turn off engine, discard fluid, disconnect hose
refit reservoir and fill to upper line
Start engine and run at fast idle, turn wheel lock to lock several times to bleed
check fluid, add if necessary, don't over fill, don't spill fluid, use water to clean up if spilled, oh yeah and use only Honda fluids or your car will immediately cease to function.
If you took your car to the dealer this is likely the process they would follow to replace fluid though I guess I should mention that on our older vehicles where seals and internals may have more wear than anticipated the additional strain of even normal service procedures could cause failure, but if that is the case then most likely you weren't far away from failure in the first place.
Hope this helps,
Alan
Disconnect the return line from reservoir
Connect a suitable hose to disconnected return line, run hose to drain container
Idle engine, turn wheel lock to lock until fluid ceases to come from return line
turn off engine, discard fluid, disconnect hose
refit reservoir and fill to upper line
Start engine and run at fast idle, turn wheel lock to lock several times to bleed
check fluid, add if necessary, don't over fill, don't spill fluid, use water to clean up if spilled, oh yeah and use only Honda fluids or your car will immediately cease to function.
If you took your car to the dealer this is likely the process they would follow to replace fluid though I guess I should mention that on our older vehicles where seals and internals may have more wear than anticipated the additional strain of even normal service procedures could cause failure, but if that is the case then most likely you weren't far away from failure in the first place.
Hope this helps,
Alan
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