i have a 1998 acura integra gsr 1.8L all bolt on's im having a problem with that it is in Limp mode and only revs to 4000RPM but when i ease on the gas it will go further to 6k things that i checked the dizzy the TPS getting 5.0V and 0.5V the 02 sensors checked the MAP sensor and reading good fuel trim im dumping to much fuel into the car im at 50PSI when i should be at 30-40PSI around there does anyone have a idea or have ever encounter a problem like this before ever the last solution is that im giving it maybe is that the oil pump that im not getting enough pressure into the head and that the computer is not goint to let me lock the cam lobes to engage vtec????

 

Probably running low on oil? Sounds like VTEC isn't engaging.

 

Well if you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, it needs adjusting. Also if you have aftermarket parts (other than intake and exhaust) and you don't have a tuned ecu, it's not going to provide you with much improvement. If the MAP is aftermarket, you need a tuned ECU. I have an issue with my integra, where it will rap out at 4 grand in neutral (however I do have a tuned ecu) and when I floor it I get some needle jumping around 5-6 grand. My distributor is new (cheap aftermarket...I know, they are not always reliable). To be honest, I haven't tried to chase down the problem, because I don't floor it often enough to matter. After some studying, many many people mention that its ignition related in the distributor. I do have an OEM distributor, which I may switch back to, to see if it helps with the needle jumping. I only bought a new one because I was unsure of the condition/quality of the one that was on my car. Other than that, I don't have any experience with vtec.

 

OP said all the mods were bolt on's. Even if there were an aftermarket FPR, it wouldn't cause the issue described.

 

try reseting the ecu to clear the limp mode disconnect the battery for a few mins, always works for me And make sure you got enough oil in the engine..

 

What year is your teg? In 2000 & 2001 obd2b the tac signal is read differently. If you are using a OBD2B dissy in a OBD2a/1 car, the needle will jump. Reason being is obd2B sends a tach signal from the dissy to ecu then from ecu to cluster. OBD2A/1 has two tach signals and one goes to the ECU and another to the cluster. This is what causes the random needle jump in the higher RPM range.

 

turns out the last code im getting on the car is fuel trim (P0171) i have a stock FPR could that be causing me not gettting fuel?

 

and its a 1998 GSR

 

You never mentioned you had a CEL code...

What happened prior to this problem occuring? Any work done to the car or difference in how the car ran?

 

Swap your distributor. Had a similar issue on a GSR

 

$5 says its your primary O2 sensor the one closest to the header collector or bank 1

 

Again its not a fuel issue!! its in LIMP mode! its got a rev liiter set at 4,000 rpm so you dont engage vtec or screw up the engine! If the engine starts its getting fuel. Try replacing the O2 sensor sounds like thats the issue.

 

This has nothing to do with his issue! the tach is not jumping its not reving past 4000rpm, A jumpy tach usually points to a bad ICM in the distributor.

 

Is the check engine light on? find out why. Go from there

 

p0171-fuel metering too lean this is the code that im getting and its not reving more then 4000RPM and getting 50PSI in the gauge

 

OP reads 50 psi on his FPR and he's afraid his engine isn't getting enough fuel....

 

ok so now i have problems i have air going out of the intake and im getting this code P1399 and im getting cylinder #1 and cylinder #3 misfire the dizzy is brand new and my friend did a valve adjustment on the car couple months ago is is possible that one of the valves are staying stuck open causing my car run rich and not able to rev now

 

You've probably had problems even before your supposed car issues. But the problem you're having now is real easy to fix. Only 2 things you have to do : Stop messing with this car and get yourself something else.

Another option would be to find someone to repair your car. I didn't mention it though because I'd feel bad for the mechanic who accepted the job. It's almost equivalent to wishing bad upon someone else. That's not right...so I refrained from doing so.

 

its something that no one has really ever to pinpoint the problem and i did turn out my valves were too tight i did the adjustment and now the car is riding fine back to the power that i had before they were sticking

 

What do you mean by "turn out my valves".

 

"It turned out my valves were too tight".

 

Just to let u guys know, I checked my distributor today. I don't think I've gone much over 1000 miles since I got my car running. I had a cheap aftermarket dizzy, brand new. Took off my cap, and the screw had loosened (literally falling out) and damaged my dizzy cap. There was no noticeable change in performance, though it may have happened on my drive home. Going to install the OEM dizzy with new cap, and test drive tomorrow. I'm thread locking my rotor screws from now on. This is the second time this has happened to me on an integra!

 

Installed my OEM dizzy with a new cap. I haven't tried to rev the engine at idle yet, but when I go full throttle, I now get a smooth acceleration. No more needle jumping!! I can't say if your problem is the same, but I'd recommend checking it out!

 

Your issue and the what the OP is experiencing are not the same. The repair/solution you describe is irrelevant to the topic. But for fixing your issue. If it aint broke, dont fix it.

 

I only mentioned it because my car would also rap out at 4000 in neutral. I also had to ease it the throttle to get smooth acceleration. Thought this would give him some place to look. I'd just try an OEM dizzy off another car before u buy parts!