I've got a 92 EX wagon with 322k on it. It's been running rough for a while, particularly at highway speeds (3000 rpm/70 mph) when going uphill. I just cleaned out the EGR ports last weekend hoping that would cure my ills, but it did not, although it has to have helped something because they were pretty plugged up. I've recently done the general tuneup bits, although I haven't figured out how to get the rotor off. I read folks saying there was a set screw but I see nothing on the old one or my new Honda part suggesting that to be the case. Was fearful of putting too much force on it to get it off, so I left it alone for the time being.

The bottom end of the motor got rebuilt about 30k ago and they replaced a couple of exhaust valves, so I'm wondering if it might be a plugged catalytic converter. Or is there somewhere else I should be checking first?

Thanks!
Scott

 

It's likely the only issue is that beat up rotor that you can't get off.

To get it to show up so you can get it off you need to put the car in neutral and turn the 19mm head bolt on the crankshaft pulley clockwise to expose the screw so you can get it off. However, it's likely it's going to be on there tight so you need to hit it with some PB blaster penetrating lubricant and let it sit for a couple hours. Then you can try to get it to it but it's possible it will be so tight you will need to get some vice grips on it. At that point it will be needed to get a new screw from Honda.

 

Here's the page with the distributor for my car. I looked at some newer models and they show the screw. This one shows no screw and there is nowhere for one to go on the rotor I've got to put on it (ordered off this page.)

1992 Honda Accord 5 Door EX KA 4AT Distributor (TEC)

Is there some other mechanism holding the rotor on that I haven't noticed?

 

For some reason I thought the 92-93 accords had a rotor screw. Yours should not have one. It just pulls off. If it's old it's likely it will stick a bit. You will need to manhandle it.

 

You may have to use a dremel or comparable cutting to cut notches in the metal retaining ring and the pry apart with a screwdriver. This is similar to a stuck bearing sleeve. Just make sure not to cut in the distributor shaft

 

Rotor didn't fix it. Had to rip the plastic water cover off, which was really what i was trying to avoid I think the first time. Once that was out of the way I put a wrench over the rotor ring and tapped it once and it popped right off.

But it's still rough, primarily at 35mph and up and when accelerating and especially on hills. What should I look at next?