Hello folks Was going to wait, but I have perfect weather staring me in the face, and I want my proper radiator fan/thermoswitch operation. Mine is presently jumped to run anytime the key gets to ignition,** when the car is or is not running. No good, not proper operation.

**


My wiring is as pictured, and my thermoswitch connector DOES fit over what you see.

Background: 1995 Honda Civic. EX (EJ1.) Automatic. Unknown miles. Not original engine. Presently has D16Y8, most likely from a year 2000 in it. Video of it in action (from first actual, documented trip immediately after whatever install) is in my sig. Y8. Auto.

Thank you, for all your help, and future help. It will serve for me to do it myself, or not get TAKEN by workers who claim to know what to do. One or the other.



And.. here we go.

Here is a pic of my present always-on fan situation, 2:54PM, 2-28-16.

 

So the key gets inserted into the igntion and the car automatically starts? Wow nice handy work.

 

When you turn the key, even to the "Run" position (where the key sits after you turn it one more notch forward to start it,) the fan spins. Whether the car is off, and just has the key turned to the "Run" position, or whether the engine is running.

^^ Thank you for the clarification. Now I would LOVE to re-do the wiring, from what it is, to make that circuit run as it should!

 

Your method of "wiring" is a fire hazard. The real, 100% proper way to do car wiring involves a soldering iron and heat shrink. At the very least, get proper crimps and heat shrink. Don't just wrap and tape **** - that's a recipe for failure. In reality, though, you need to stop fiddling with the wires. Go get an un-fucked-with, OEM harness, and install it. Don't cut. Don't modify.

 

^^^

My next question would be how to get the cruise control to operate properly. Tomorrow, I'm taking inventory of all the stuff and parts I have from all the adventures and things this car has been through. I *think* I have the cruise control switch, and old wheel. IDC if the airbag doesn't work. (Passenger one probably would work. I think it's cool this car has a passenger airbag. Ahead of its time?) But the rest of it is such that nothing happens. I would like to know what all is involved with cruise. I do like cruise.

I have an LX column.. Tilt, auto. "No cruise." But it was mentioned an EX column was not NEEDED for cruise, so I did not go and "impulse buy" one that said "EX, Tilt, auto, 95, with cruise and key."

Presently looking forward to enjoying my car with:
- All 4 lugs on each wheel. (Taken care of at engine install.)
- Y8 engine, VTEC working, NO CEL IT WAS CODE 22 OBD1 WHEN IT WAS ON, coolant 50/50 E.G./water bled and system purged of air, with WORKING HEAT yes it works now or I have felt it so it should, nothing blown.
- Working lights, brakes, trans.
- CRUISE..

Duly noted on harness. And I would get one for the 95.. year..

Notice I'm bringing up one issue at a time.

 

One thing at a time, though.. I am looking forward to no CEL when it starts up next, based on what I did today.

I would like to get the thernoswitch to work as intended, though I do not presently have a means for a wiring harness.

After that, would be cruise control..

 

One issue at a time, but you're moving onto cruise control, a luxury, when you still have a fire hazard in your improperly done wiring? Stop lying to us, and more importantly, stop lying to yourself.

 

What CEL code(s) do you have?

Have you reset your CEL since the "new" engine was installed?





.

 

Code 22

And, yes.

Battery has been out for 3 days as of tomorrow morning, and I could pull the fuses if need be.. it's "reset," if that's how you do it.

(My blueprint is thermoswitch, then cruise. Maybe I can get those connectors pictured. I've seen those.)

 

$75. Yours Truly does not have at this time.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Civic-92-93-94-95-Main-Engine-Wiring-Harness-with-Fuel-Injectors-D16Z6-/111913262076?nav=SEARCH

 

Start a Go Fund Me page and post in GDD. I'm sure tw1at and Mark'sa1.8tater will help you out!





eH.

 

eH, it's kind of funny you said this because I actually was going to spring that on the world tomorrow. I can't make an effective one from my phone.

You read my mind, though.

- Whiskey Niner-Five.

 

my guess is they rigged it always on because the switch is bad

 

Mechanic pilfered my old, working one for some unknown reason. (Maybe for somebody else's car? Idk.) He is now supposedly M.I.A. nice..

Anyways, agreeing with Mr. eghatch9295 and the OJ Robinson review before using some of my thin money cushion to order the part, where I will them join it to the wiring. Will also watch YouTube videos about soldering. (I'm liking the butane idea, because wires are prohibitive and I could probably do a lot more work without needing an electrical cord.)

 

https://honda-tech.com/general-discu.../#post50791605



Promised/Delivered.

TIA.

Sincerely, - Joseph

Got to go drive the Honda now. CEL off? Moment of truth. And we go from there..

 

Joseph, please don't let your thread stray off topic into non-tech. Stay focused. Thanks.

 

Interested to see in Code 22 was/is the only CEL your engine is throwing. I'd be shocked if it was.

Good luck though!





eH.

 

It was, sir. CEL has not returned upon firing it up!



And, RonJ:

I am about to order a brand new thermoswitch.

 

Something has been tampered with to make the fan run all the time.
Ideally, find the guy who did it and ask him what he did.
The switch plug looks clean.
The system is rather simple, the green wire from the switch goes to the fan relay in the underhood fuse box. The black wire on the swich is just a ground.
So the next thing to check is the fan relay in the underhood fuse box. Look for added wires.

 

Yes you need that.

Funny thing is if those injectors are good, you could turn around and sell the set of 4 injectors that comes with it for almost what you paid. Does this seller not know about the little wire clips that lock the harness plugs onto the injectors?

 

Today, I drove around with NO CEL. It felt great. (And no, it did not come back on at ANY TIME, except the little "light test" when you turn the key. Great. Proper operation.) It's off.

I'm also $10 in towards new parts (harness?) But that's OT for this thread, so I'll leave that there.

Goal is to have idle surge stopped by tomorrow.

Wiring is presently working, did not fool with butt connectors. Will disconnect thermoswitch rigged wiring, it is a simple enough thing, sometimes I do absolutely forget everything and that can be both a good and bad thing. But I'm starting with that nut that looks like it has two or three wires crammed on it. Then turning the car on. Then, I can slide thermoswitch connector over where it is supposed to be. IF THE FAN DOESN'T SPIN WHEN I DISCONNECT THE FIRST THING then I think I have defeated the nerry-rigging.

There was also a YouTube video I saw on how to test thermoswitch functionality by jumping something and turning key on.. I'll have to re-watch that, as I did this test on previous engine.

(Dude has my old block with the head off it and cleaned up relatively nice, too. Not sure of he would do that if scrapping it. So... maybe he has plans for it.. but I'm not into that engine anymore)

 

Have you looked in the fuse box?

Or asked the mechanic what he did to make the fan run all the time?

The thing with 4 wires is your ECU ground. It looks to me to be completely stock. They all have 4 wires like that from the factory. Don't mess with it.

Go back to the garage and at least try to reclaim your intake manifold, which has some potentially useful parts like a BRAND NEW throttle position sensor, and your PCV valve and related hoses, which you really need. I'm with you on never wanting to see that block again, but they are stealing a bunch of your other parts.

 

youre wrong, take a close pic at the thermoswitch wires. about an inch-2 away from the plug, each wire has insulation stripped and the wires are crossed. this is the same as jumping the plug, and will make the fan run with the ignition on.

 

A-HA! So THAT'S how it was done!

I can honestly say.. I would have had no effing clue as to that. None. Thank you soo much.

The first thing I did was look for "extra wires" and found none.

Oh, and.. I had been told ?? That the parts that were new (mech spotted them at time of engine swap) were re-used. I found a PCV valve, and installed it I believe to the right place.. the "breather box" APPEARS to be hooked up, the intake is in the way. I THINK the new TPS made it to the new intake. The idle surge persists, but has gone away once or twice so I'm wondering of its coolant level.

mk378 is right, the part pilfering of my working thermoswitch is so suspect. (Why! Why do that. It's shadyness and a catch-22 (and there is a LOT of stuff in that shop, including 55-gallom drums of methanol. Maybe there are bodies inside.) but the car runs, and runs pretty well. Weird thing is I still hear an ever so slight almost vacuum leak sounding noise from what my ear wants to tell me is hood area, especially accelerating from first gear. It is NOT A transmission whine, so not sure.

This is my latest, and I have an excellent pointer for tomorrow now.

 

pull off the intake arm. there are two holes inside of the throttle body. cover them one at a time. does the idle smooth out? which one did it? did you get ALL of the air out of your system?