A friend is used car manager at a local Subaru dealer. I went out to look at a Forester that sold before I got there and he took a 99 CR-V AWD 5 speed on trade that I looked at. Black 5 speed 2 owner with 168k miles, lots of service records etc, very straight and nice vehicle. I took it for a test drive and it idled a little high but smoothly for maybe 5 minutes before I drove it. A little high = ~1600 rpm. As soon as I accelerated with any umph, it misfired and the CEL light flashed on and off. I slowed to a stop and did a U-turn, the CEL went off. Accelerated again, the misfire returned and the CEL flashed for a bit. I had done some web searching and saw the issues with exhaust valves and misfire on here, is this what I am seeing?
I had never driven a CR-V, the last Honda I had was a CRX years ago and I really liked the vehicle otherwise, as I said I know the manager and if the valve issue is behind the problem, what are the options? Redo the seats, do a valve job, and have the head rebuilt? New head? I've done a number of head swaps and timing belt replacements on VW diesels so I'm not worried about the nut and bolt work and timing. I just don't know what the parts costs/options are. I want to know what to offer on the car to cover me for the costs of doing the repairs.

Thanks in advance for any input. Someone will put this back on the road, might as well be me, if the money makes sense.

Joe

 

You can get a rebuilt head for about $350. Add the cost of installation and you have option #1. Option #2 is to do a compression check after a valve adjustment. IMO I would look at #2 first. You might get lucky and that's all it needs.

 

Thanks for the reply. I probably should do a timing belt service and head gasket while it's apart if option 1, I imagine.

 

yes. as well as water pump and belt tensioner

 

As LDForget said, if you're going to go that far I would replace the head, head gasket, intake and exhaust gaskets come in a head gasket set, Timing belt, tensioner, and idler pulleys, as well as the water pump. As it's going back together a tune-up kit and set the base timing and idle speed per the manual procedures. I PM'ed you, check your mail.

 

This misfire was said to be due to a lot boy hosing off the engine and it runs fine now. I haven't been able to get back to see it, it may sell before I get there.

The CARFAX noted that a local dealership did all of the work including a recommended maintenance and 90k mile service last fall so I called to see if they did the valve adjustment at the 90k service. The service advisor told me that they never adjust the valves unless they start making noise and that usually happens at 105k. Sort of like what the Honda manual says.

I mentioned the common reports of tight valves and issues related to that and he pretty much said I was an idiot and that's web nonsense. He said the valve adjustment was $350.

Interesting conversation.

 

its likely the distributor gasket is leaking and water got into it causing the misfire. in this case id recommend replacing it with a new distributor as the wiring inside is likely faulty from years of it leaking. valve adjustments are good maintenance.

 

What are they asking for the v? Ask them to let you take it tk your mechanic to look it over, take it home or around the corner, run a compression check at minimum, if possible a leak down too. That will also give you some insight on the engine, as these motors/heads are notorious for burning valves

 

Mine has had that issue before after going through huge puddles and getting some sensors wet. It's probably fine. Worst case, the CRV's have plenty of work room in the engine bay and rebuilding these engines can be done blindfolded, while hanging upside down, drunk, and in your sleep.

What are they asking for it?

 

$4990 marked down to $3400 because I know the dealer. Has dealer fees etc tacked on. 160k, black on black, comes with a CR-V factory manual, 2 owner, full CARFAX details on the second owner maintenance history that was done at the dealer, just had rec maintenance and 90k service done last June. Handwritten notes in the owners manual from the first owner's maintenance. Passed their inspection process before going on the lot (and the lot boy sprayed it down). Looks like it's been undercoated, didn't see any rust underneath or in any of the rockers, undersides of doors etc. Just a tiny bit of surface rust on top of the front strut towers that would clean up easily with Extend, none underneath the towers. Michelin defender tires, at least they didn't skimp on tires. Seems to be a very well cared for car. It's still shown on the web site so it appears they still have it, I could not get out there after work so I am supposed to go out tomorrow if they still have it. I'll have to make a decision at that time.

Also thinking of looking at a 98 that just drove into Ohio from Colorado asking $3300. Dark Green. Lots of tune up type recent maintenance with honda OEM parts for the drive across country but nothing else to look at in the way of history. timing belt (100k) and clutch (140k) said to be done. 185k and this is the first version of that B20 engine from what I learned on here, not as desirable. cooper tires from the photos. shouldn't be rusty if it was from Colorado originally.

 

If one is 5spd and the other is auto, go with the 5spd.....especially if you plan on modifying the engine at all

 

Both are 5 speeds, sorry. I don't drive automatics.

 

Nice....they are scarce in 5spd.....98 would be obd2a 99 will be obd2b....
Personally i like the black, had an ebp 01 that got totaled, drive from michigan to virginia to pick up my current fbp 01 with 5spd.....

Never really liked them in green...but thats me

 

Thanks, I prefer the black as well but the emerald green doesn't look bad. The 98 has no records and I hear the 99 B20 is a lot better. Speaking of OBD, can I use a standard scanner on this thing? I have to use a special cable and software on my laptop to get anything out of my VW TDI.

 

Yes, should be able to.....

 

Excellent, thanks.

 

No problem.....good luck making your choice......youll love either one..

 

Thanks. The black 99 is still on the web site, sent a text to my friend who works there, waiting to hear if the web site is up to date. If so, seeing about going back there tomorrow. The back door wouldn't open, they need to fix that as well. Hopefully that is done. The 99's service records, 20k less miles, 99 engine versus the 98, and black paint win. Unless it's sold and they haven't updated the web site, which happens. That's why I went out there to buy a Forester and it wasn't there.

 

And....they sold it yesterday and never updated the web site. Not terribly excited about the 98 but might go see it anyway.

 

And....I went to see the green 98 and the guy neglected to mention that every surface on the vehicle that had any relationship to the sky was completely riddled with hail dents. Hundreds of them, large and small, hood/top/top of the doors/top of the quarter panels, everything that faced up. After ten emails and an equal number of texts this never came up. He mentioned the clear on the hood was a little foggy but that was almost unnoticeable because of the hail dents. Total waste of time.