So,
put a B20 turbed engine in her (B16 head),
as soon as we got the car all wired up & everything done 2 run etc there has been a constant tapping noise since.
She's been running for about 2 months now.
The tapping/ticking is loud, u can hear it from inside & outside of the car.
It taps when we first turn it on, while it's idling, accelerating etc etc.
We were told it was the valve clearance but we done all that to perfection & it's still tapping annoyingly what else can it b? Not gonna take it to a mechanic yet coz I'm not paying $80+ for them to tell me it could b this or it could b that then charge more to actually fix it, rather just do it ourselves.
Any ideas?
Bare in mind she isn't tuned yet nor is there a front/top mount on her & also no BOV.
Any tips would b hugely appreciated

 

Valve clearance needs to be set with the engine cold.

Side note: If you are running that setup without a tune you are an idiot. But if you don't give a **** about the engine blowing up, then by all means, please continue.

 

^That.

don't drive it untuned. you are pushing a **** ton more air into your motor and not adding anymore fuel. This leans out the motor and cause a lot of problems, usually ruining your build. I'm surprised it is still running after 2 months to be honest.

What is a front/top mount? some sort of hybrid? lol

 

...No intercooler, no tune, no blowoff, running for 2 months, and you wonder why your motor is fucked? Yes, your motor is fucked. You fucked your motor.

 

It was ticking from the moment she first turned over so no it wasn't from us driving it

 

The fuel has been advanced & in the process of sorting air pressure.
Front/top because we haven't decided which mount we're gonna go with

 

It's painfully clear that you have no idea what you're talking about. Given that, it's a safe bet that you didn't do valve lash properly, if at all. Did you open the motor at any point? What's your P2W? Exactly what did you set your valve lash to? Exactly how did you do it? Convince us that you aren't as dumb as you are, quite frankly, making yourself look.

 

The valve clearance was done from word go when the engine was cold so I don't think it's that.
I've heard 2 diff sides to whether driving while untuned is okay enough or not & both sides seem legit so I guess we'll just have to take our chances coz apparently it's not as bad if u don't hit boost which we don't nornally do at this stage.
I didn't post to get the **** ripped outta me lol just wanting some genuine feedback

 

You're getting genuine feedback. If you think driving without a tune is a good idea, you are being stupid. If you listen to someone telling you to drive without a tune, you are listening to an absolute ******* moron. You also completely avoided actually answering any of my questions. Do you want help, or do you just want to play the game of confirmation bias?

 

Dude wtf lol can I not put up a genuine statement without people being ********! I don't know everything about cars but I'm not retarded! My bf & the mechanic both done the valve clearance together & it's as it should be. The tapping noise doesn't always necessarily mean it's the valve clearance from what I've gathered from other peoples questions/replies

 

If your boyfriend is the one doing the work, maybe we should be talking to him. You still have chosen to ignore some very simple questions I have asked. And just to be clear, driving without a tune is pants on head retarded.

 

They're not necessarily saying to drive without it tuned just basically it's not as bad as people think & there are alternative ways. I didn't do the valve clearance myself if u didn't gather that so I couldn't answer ur questions at mo, bf & mechanic done it. So are u saying that becoz there's still an intense tapping noise the valve clearance wasn't done properly? I want other peoples opinions but not if they're gonna b rude about it

 

Did you ever think that maybe you aren't getting the pretty welcoming committee you were expecting because you aren't playing ball with us? I have asked you five simple questions. I have pointed you towards those questions three (now four) times. you have refused to even try to answer four of them, and made an excuse for the fifth. That's not how things work around here. If you want help, you have to answer questions. If you cannot answer questions, get your boyfriend in here and have him ask for help - middle man threads never end well, especially when the middle man quite clearly doesn't know what he or she is talking about. If you won't answer simple questions, then quite frankly, it doesn't matter who is telling you anything.

Now, I am going to ask you one last time. I am going to number these questions, and I am going to give them each their own line, so that there is absolutely no chance that you can miss them all. I'm even going to combine two into one, just to make things easier for you. If you do not know the answer, then do not post. Get your boyfriend to answer the question.

1: Exactly what valve lash specs were used?
2: Exactly how was valve lash set?
3: Was the motor opened up at any point?
4: Exactly what is your P2W?

 

can u please be specific ? wt damage can it do? without being rude tho just trying to get some help dont need the names thanks

 

i havent taken it over 4000rpm and its not fukd it had the sound when it first startd up . i have advance the fuel so its not leaning out but its def getting to much air and yes i no ineed bov mount and am doing this week. but all i wontd to no is what else the sound culd be

 

ffs lol miss was posting up a question guys, no she doesnt no that much but that is y people ask isnt it? and yes i did do the valve lash and that didnt stop the sound. anything else? with out being so rude?

 

and sorry what is a p2w? and i set them 2 0.007" IN and 0.008" EX ,

 

ok bf hea, vavle lash set at 0.007" IN and 0.008" EX, i bought the motor and everything was new e,g gaskets waterpump cam kit bla bla so the head would ov came off , then wheni got it running was making that sound so done valve lash, and i put #1 piston tdc, loosend locknut adjusted as needed to specs and then #3 piston tdc adjust then 2 and 1 . and what is p2w?

 

does that help?

 

umm i did answer once again ..... vavle lash set at 0.007" IN and 0.008" EX, i bought the motor and everything was new e,g gaskets waterpump cam kit bla bla so the head would ov came off , then wheni got it running was making that sound so done valve lash, and i put #1 piston tdc, loosend locknut adjusted as needed to specs and then #3 piston tdc adjust then 2 and 1 . and what is p2w?

 

P2W. Piston to Wall clearance. Too big a P2W can cause piston slap, which can also sound like a constant tapping. Since you bought the engine overhauled, I'm going to guess you don't actually know what the P2W is for your engine. Do you even know if the seller honed the block, or re-ringed the pistons? So, was this motor ever running, in your possession, without ticking? In your process of doing valve lash, did you check after tightening, or did you just tighten it down and say good enough? Did you check after giving the engine a heat cycle?

 

Op: Here's a few possibilities for you for you to research:

1) Piston slap
2) LMA: Lost Motion Assemblies
3) Loose wrist pins

 

Cheers mate will do

 

sounds a lot like a knock. narc is right, boost+ not even a half assed fmu hack, let alone a tune is drool on chin, laughing at your own reflection, shiny thing loving, fetal alcohol syndrome retarded. you're very obviously in over your head with this, so ill ask- whens the partout?

 

You're a **** wit who makes no sense lol. **** off!