This is a parts diagram for a 1995 Civic DX.

I noticed Honda does not have replacement parts for the u-joint on part 13, the "rod, change". I noticed hasport does, but they apparently don't sell them. They just use them to fulfill their life time warranties on their own shift linkages. Does anyone, any company or organization, sell proper parts to rebuild one of these u-joints? I've found a method to do so using washers, i'm not going to do that. I've found a method using "well nuts", courtesy of I CRX I on the EF civic forum, which i might just do but i'd rather not.

I left 14 in my car after pulling my motorset out, it got very bent as i pushed the car out of my garage and through my yard. Not only that, but the u-joint is incredibly worn out. So i went and bought a different shift linkage (both bars) from a guy i met on the internet, he told me $20 and i figured hell why not, then when i got there the u-joint was TOO TIGHT! He then offered me 50% off the product, so at least i can replace my bent piece.

Now i'm stuck with two u-joints that are both unacceptable. One that flops around like a donkey dick and one that's tighter than virgin *****. I mean, it practically takes a pair of pliers just to move it.

I figure, i should be able to make it work with all of these junk parts. I figure, i should be able to do more than just make it work. I figure that I'll be able to make one that's like brand new. I just need those pesky parts.

Something like this, but less "random stuff" and more "these are the correct parts to re-manufacture a shift linkage".


So, where do i get em?

 

In the spirit of our lost but not forgotten fellow durrrr, i'm uploading a video about my problem.

 

Found this video. Not sure if you saw it.
The guy install C-clips which wont fall out. i wouldnt recomend jamming a piece of metal in their like him though.
Might want to consider it if you dont find a kit.

Or maybe finding a civic part out with a good shift linkage may be a way to go too.

 

That's a good find buddy, i hadn't see this. I spent about maybe an hour researching possible solutions, mostly forums and not a lot of videos. I'll give this a try on my loose linkage. I think i'll also try oiling the tight one.

I'm mostly looking for whatever will work out the best, for the least money. The most efficient cost-benefit ratio. I'm concerned about long term longevity of it too, i don't want to use something that'l wear out again six months down the road. With some things, though, i guess i won't know until i try.

 

I dont think the c-clips will wear out in 6 months or maybe even years.

Yes, try oiling the tight shift linkage and just move it around for a bit and maybe it will loosen up. You'll get a good work out too. Lol

 

Hasport linkage repair kit is $14.95 plus shipping

 

Thank you for correcting me.

 

It looks like they do not list it on their website...

Shift Linkage - Accessories

 

unfortunately thats because its special order and not available on the website

 

The loose one was disintegrated, the bushings fell apart. And I figured out why the tight one was so tight. The pin inside rusted very badly.

I'm gonna pack the new bushings with some sort of nylon safe grease to prevent that from happening again and keep my shifter tight for a very long time. The Hasport stuff looks very good, i'm expecting my shifter to feel like new again.

 

What will you lube with? Syl-Glide? Anti-Seize?

 

I'm gonna call Permatex, CRC, Gunk, whatever automotive chemical companies that i need to in order to find a product in the autoparts store that is guaranteed to be nylon safe. I briefly searched the internet and all i found was people posting about how thoughtlessly using greases on their RC car gears ruined the nylon gears. Hopefully i don't need some $20 Permatex product, or something that doesn't have amazon prime.

 

the Hasport linkage repair kit doesnt need lubricants

 

Good to know! Is there anything that can be used to keep water out if operating in climate with a lot of rainfall?

 

It's not your side of the parts that i am worried about. Look at how badly honda's parts rusted out. These are the parts i want to be lubricated, not for friction reduction but rather to keep water out and slow down the oxidization process.

 

I was just talking to my friend about this. If i can get grease that's nylon safe in actual grease tubes, he suggested that I put a nipple on the T and grease it during oil changes.

I just have to figure out where i can get a full size tube of nylon safe grease.

 

Your typical suspension grease should be nylon safe. Steering gearboxes have nylong parts inside them (rack end bushing).

 

That's good to know, i've never rebuild a rack so i wouldn't know what's inside of them. I'm still gonna try and double check by calling the greasy companies and asking them, just to be double sure.

 

Now I have a question....Can you (or Hasport) please confirm that their repair kit fits the OEM Honda shift rod? For $15 + shipping it sounds like a fantastic option to help keep these old cars crisp & tight. I have a stock 89 CRX Si that is definitely "in need".

 

Yes sir, if you don't believe me i could post a picture of it

 

I believe you. Thanks!

BTW: There is a Napa kit for $13 that takes care of the other end if anyone is interested. Sure beats the $30+ it would cost for the same parts at the dealership. It's 92-95 Civic style parts, but should work in all 88-00 Civics and maybe even integras..

https://www.napaonline.com/p/ATM0772901

 

I asked:
Mobil 1 about their Synthetic Grease,
Lucas about their Red n tacky grease,
valvoline about three diffeent ones,

So i'll probably go with Lucas since they're great and all that. I'm using their racekar break in oil too.

 

I don't think the dealer sells any of this stuff. Their only option is to replace the entire rod and i'm happier spending less than a replacement rod costs and having a superior part.

 

Not sure what you mean. The parts I linked go inside the base of the shift lever where the rod attaches. Not inside the rod u-joint. Each individual piece is still available at the dealer for about $30 total. For less than half the price, the NAPA parts seem like a good option.

 

I got confused with which numbers (i provided a chart in the OP) you were referring to, with your added description you've made me understand. I thought you meant "the other end" of the u-joint. Sorry about that.