'95 Accord - intermittent brake sinking
Hello,
Driving a '95 Accord LX Automatic
I've had my brake lines done some time ago, and since then my brakes sometimes sink while my foot is on them, and the car is stopped.
I've already had the Master Cylinder replaced, which made it happen less often, but it still happens.
The car always seems to brake just fine, it's only once the car is already stopped for a few seconds with my foot riding on the brake that it starts to slowly sink down from under me. Assuming I lower my foot with the pedal, I can keep the car from moving.
It happens about 50% of the times I use the car, and will often happen a few times in a row (at stops) once it's happened the first time.
My ABS light is on, but in this car it's a separate (unrelated?) module, and ABS light has been on since before this issue.
Was wondering if anyone had any guesses as to what the issue could be. I've had my mechanic bleed the brakes many times, which doesn't seem to fix the issue permanently. Thanks!
Driving a '95 Accord LX Automatic
I've had my brake lines done some time ago, and since then my brakes sometimes sink while my foot is on them, and the car is stopped.
I've already had the Master Cylinder replaced, which made it happen less often, but it still happens.
The car always seems to brake just fine, it's only once the car is already stopped for a few seconds with my foot riding on the brake that it starts to slowly sink down from under me. Assuming I lower my foot with the pedal, I can keep the car from moving.
It happens about 50% of the times I use the car, and will often happen a few times in a row (at stops) once it's happened the first time.
My ABS light is on, but in this car it's a separate (unrelated?) module, and ABS light has been on since before this issue.
Was wondering if anyone had any guesses as to what the issue could be. I've had my mechanic bleed the brakes many times, which doesn't seem to fix the issue permanently. Thanks!
Was the replacement Master Cylinder new or remanufactured?
Reman'd units tend to fail, they just do. And new ones can fail as well.
Either have a new one installed or the original one rebuilt after a thorough inspection. However it is just cheaper to purchase a new unit. I'd recommend Centric brand from Rock Auto.
Check for any wetness around the brake booster, if the MC is leaking it would dribble into the booster. If there is no loss of fluid when from the pedal dropping I would suspect your new to you MC has an internal leak and should be replaced.
Jumper the two wire blue connector mounted under the center of the glove box door.
Turn the ignition to II(ON).
Watch for blinking lamps from the CEL, ABS or SRS. They will each take a turn and will rotate through. So if you miss it the first time, just wait til the code repeats.
Note the codes from the ABS.
It will be a two part single digit code #-# with nothing higher than '8' in either space.
Reman'd units tend to fail, they just do. And new ones can fail as well.
Either have a new one installed or the original one rebuilt after a thorough inspection. However it is just cheaper to purchase a new unit. I'd recommend Centric brand from Rock Auto.
Check for any wetness around the brake booster, if the MC is leaking it would dribble into the booster. If there is no loss of fluid when from the pedal dropping I would suspect your new to you MC has an internal leak and should be replaced.
Jumper the two wire blue connector mounted under the center of the glove box door.
Turn the ignition to II(ON).
Watch for blinking lamps from the CEL, ABS or SRS. They will each take a turn and will rotate through. So if you miss it the first time, just wait til the code repeats.
Note the codes from the ABS.
It will be a two part single digit code #-# with nothing higher than '8' in either space.
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Schubs
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Jul 29, 2008 03:03 PM




