I have read a few threads about bleeding clutch hydraulics but... it CAN'T be THIS bad...


I'm going solo so it's crack the bleeder, press the pedal, close the bleeder, pull the pedal. I' did that for over 3 HOURS today and it's just now getting the tiniest bit of pressure. I went through an entire quart of fluid and then decided to throw in the towel for the day. Am I doing something wrong or does this job really just suck this much? I thought I'd be on easy street after the nightmare of getting the flare nut loose. Ha! I want to weep like a little girl. I'd rather work on old, ill kept diesel motors all day long.

 

I would suggest picking up a vacuum pump and bleeder kit. SOOOOO much easier than pumping the pedal, although don't put much more than 15inHg on an older system. Could also try gravity bleeding. Crack the bleeder open with a hose on the end and just let it burp itself. Not sure what part you replaced. I don't think you can over stroke a clutch master cylinder, but if the pedal did go further than normal, you may have damaged a seal.
Get your head up under the dash and verify the CMC is not leaking.

 

I replaced the clutch master cylinder. I have checked and the seal is not leaking. My plan it to walk to Autozone for when they open at 8 to buy a vacuum bleeder. With a vacuum bleeder how long can I expect this to take?

I find it odd that the bleeder is lower than the CMC so any air bubbles will tend to float back up to the CMC.

 

Generally in lines that small the air bubbles don't have a whole lot of self-authority because surface tension keeps them fairly well in place. Gravity bleeding might work, I just grabbed my dad and we had it bled in a couple minutes.

Also, what brand master cylinder did you buy? Sometimes reman units from Advanced Oreillyzone can be DOA.

 

I got a vacuum bleeder and a few more quarts of break fluid. The vacuum bleeder is a useless POS. I couldn't get a good seal on the bleeder.

WTF! Could someone who has done this before please throw me a F'ing bone! At this point it would have been cheaper to pay someone else to do this **** job for me. I guess this is cheaper..... if your time is worthless.

 

Could you explain the process of "grabbing your dad"?

 

"Hey dad, can you come help me bleed my clutch?"

"Sure, what do you need me to do?"

"Grab the clutch pedal and push and pull when I tell you to please."

"Sure."

*open bleeder* "Push!" *close bleeder* "Pull!" [repeat until no more air bubbles come out.]

 

If the CMC was a reman'd unit it may be ***** already.
Did you 'bench bleed' it before hooking up the hardline? IOTW, did you attach a line to the output and feed it back to the MC reservoir and pump until the CMC was bled? Trying to bleed a system with a 'dry' MC is almost pointless, air will compress and may not allow proper bleeding of the system.

Lines that come with the Mity-Vac kits do suck, it comes with adapters that don't work well. Purchase some clear tubing form the auto store, if they don't have any, look for a pet/fish store, grab about 3'. It is much easier to get over a nipple.

 

I didn't bench bleed it! I watched the "Eric The Car Guy" video and he didn't. My plan is to bench bleed it tomorrow morning as soon as I can get someone to operate the pedal. Then I'm going to attach the MityVac to the bleeder nipple with just a hose, after your recommendation, and cinch it down with a zip strip and needle nose pliers to get that last little bit of grab.

My plan is to "bench bleed" it in place by removing the line and having someone depress the pedal while I keep a thumb over the outlet. No air gets in but fluid can get out.


This job sucks.

 

I didn't bench bleed my cmc either (new...crap, forgot the brand but it was related to exedy), couldn't as the reservoir is remote. It only took 5-6 pumps before the clutch slave was spitting into my bleeder drain tube. Hardest part was watching the clutch reservior like a hawk as it took only took 3 pumps of the pedal before it sucked air.

I also ran a new flex hose off the firewall and a bridge line down to the trans, my clutch damper was rusty and gross and I binned it. that might affect things, I'm not sure.

 

It was a God Damn defective part! I bench bled it and still couldn't build up any pressure. I put it in my back pack, got on my bicycle and returned it. It was an aftermarket make. I got the Beck Arnley. It was $20 more. I would have gotten that at first had they thought to mention it to me. After I got the new one installed it probably took me about 20 minutes or so to fully bleed the system.

WTF?

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

Glad you got it sorted out.

Don't hold B/A in too high a regard, they just rebox parts. Paid $50 once for a $25 Anchor engine mount. didn't even bother taking the Anchor part number off the wrapper. Though they don't buy crap, so at the least its a known quantity. Certainly better than reman. Master cylinders are one of those things you just don't buy reman.

 

Yeah, I know they're a mid level quality. They are the OEM I believe though. Maybe that's why it's such a common failure!?

 

I use a used old but working fuel pump as a method, you insert de fuel pump inside a little bottle with clutch fluid of your choice, insert the reservoir hose on the fuel pump exit line, put the negative wire on the ground of your choice and make a positive from your battery, it takes like 30 mins tops with this method.