Hello everyone. I have a problem with my car and I just can figure it out. I have been stuck on the same problem for almost six months. I have a bad tick in my head. I was fine until I redid the clutch on the car and decide to fix everything I could while I was in there and had the motor out. So this is the car and parts list.

1988 CRX
Jdm b16a (88-91)ob0
I/h/e
New timming belt and tennsior
Water pump
New clutch/flywheel/tb
New clutch cable
New gaskets all the way around
Converted to ob1
Hondata s300
Redone valve lash
Skunk2 lmas

Well that's what I can think of for now I am sure there is more. Recently I was looking at some old receipts from the previous owner and came across one that said ctr intake cam. Before I pull the motor again and go threw everything again. Am I suppose to line up a ctr intake cam a little differant? Like maybe a tooth off from the stock exhaust cam. I been searching this a lot I can't seem to find any thing on ctr cam install . I see a lot people talking about but not actually a diy or how to. Could really use some help here guys. I know there is someone that know exactly what to do. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

 

It does not matter what cam or cams you have, you have to put them all at top dead center.

What are you setting valve lash at?

 

6 for the intake and 7 for the exhaust. I would half to look when i get home. So there is nothing that you got to do with th ctr intake cam to make it match. Right now eveything is lined up just like oem

 

6 for the intake and 7 for the exhaust. I would half to loom when i get home. So there is nothing that you got to do with th cte intake cam to make it match. Right now eveything is lined up just like oem

 

No, it's an OEM cam, It will need to be at TDC. Even with aftermarket cams you start at TDC then DEGREE them using adjustable cam gears. Never start off a tooth.

 

And this is what i thought too. So i installed every thing correctly. And just to be clear . i lined up tdc with the crankshaft pulley and the line down there. I also made sure the cams were lined up too with the up arrow up on both cam gears and the line on the cam gears. Then i went to set the valve lash starting at tdc adjust 1 turn 180 degrees the cylinder3 turn 180 then 4 turn 180 then 2. Does that sound correct. Also should i be watch where the top of the lob is on the cam when doing the valve lash?

 

Did you measure between the lobe and rocker arm/pad, or off the top of the valve stem?

As long as the lobe is off the rocker you can set valve lash, typically the lobe will be pointing straight up when following proper protocol.

 

Just to be sure the lobe should alwas be pointing up when setting the lash?

 

Yes. You want to measure the valve lash with no pressure on the rocker.

 

 

Ok I went ahead and redid the valve lash again. Intake is 7 and exhaust at 8. Still the loud tick is there. I am so puzzled by this. I do see some small marks on the intake cam. Not sure if they always been there or if it's new

 

Maybe try disabling fuel and ignition, removed the valve cover, and spark plugs and spin the engine over while closely watching the valvetrain.
Does it sound like a valve ticking? If you did your valve adjustment correctly, we can rule that out. Lash adjusted engine cold?
If you push on the middle rocker, does it compress normally and feel OK?

 

Yes valve lash done cold. The middle rocker is good i put in new skunk2 lma thinking that was the problem. But it is still there. Do you think maybe a power tool to turn the crank with the cover off would be too much.

 

I almost wonder if it's not an LMA making noise. My S2 LMAs have been great, but I've heard of other having issues with them.

 

The starter should turn the engine over around 250 rpms which might be all you need. I suppose you could spin it a little more with a power tool of some sort. I would only use a heavy duty variable speed drill and not an impact. An impact will be noisier and might loosen up the crank bolt if you put too much to it.
A sound clip may also help if you can post one.

 

Ok I've redone valve lash serval times and it's still there. I took it for a drive. It feels good but still makes the noise. I will try to post video up soon. Could I a oil pump cause a noise that sounds like a lifter?

 

No, the oil pump should never make noise. The only noise that sounds similar to a lifter would be a spun rod bearing, at least that is my opinion.

A long shot, but it could be an injector clicking.

 

If you have low oil pressure, you valvetrain would probably be noisier. Is there a reason you might suspect your oil pump? Is your oil pressure good?
If you pull your valve cover and spin the engine over, do you get a nice solid stream of oil drizzling all over the lobes?

Looking at your list again, Id be thinking about swapping LMAs at this point. Everything else was re-used, correct?

 

I put new used injectors in thinking that was the issue but the noise still continued. I could buy new one and put them in but i am not too sure witch ones get. Its ob0 converted to ob1 but the injector box is still hooked up. So i thought they would stay ob0.

 

After i put the car back togther it was making the noise. After going threw everything the ony thing i could think was the lma so i took out the b18c lma and did the sk2.
When i took the vc off and turned the motor all the lobes stayed well oiled. Some told me it was my oil pump from looking hearing it. So thats why i asked the question about the oil pump. I think it fine. I will get a gauge too make sure. Is there a way to check the oil pressure on smanger?
I will be posted a video on a link very soon. But the video to hust sounds like another honda tick

 

Does the noise change with engine temperature?

 

No oil pressure reading in Smanager unless you've added a sensor, wiring, and set it up in the software..

 

 

No it seams to stay there i will try to get another video of warmed up.

 

Using a long screwdriver like a stethoscope, can you pin point if the noise is coming from the valve train or near the tops of the cylinders? Does any certain cylinder seem to be louder than the others?

If you disable each cylinder, one at a time (unplug injector), does it affect the noise at all?
What kind of valve springs?

Are there any abnormal marks on the lobes or rockers?