86x92 B-Series
Hey guys! Im planning to build a 86x92 motor. this will be the plan.
Head:
B18 ported head
Supertech big valves-flat valves
Supertech bronze valve guide
Skunk2 ultra street intake manifold
Skunk2 pro series valve springs
Skunk2 pro series retainers
Skunk2 pro3 cams
Blox 76mm throttlebody
ID 1000cc injectors
BLOCK:
B18 block golden eagle sleeved
BC stroker kit 92mm
CP 86mm 14compression pistons
Race bearings
Headers
SMSP copy
I will run this on pumpgas 100octane
I need your personal inputs and comments.
Head:
B18 ported head
Supertech big valves-flat valves
Supertech bronze valve guide
Skunk2 ultra street intake manifold
Skunk2 pro series valve springs
Skunk2 pro series retainers
Skunk2 pro3 cams
Blox 76mm throttlebody
ID 1000cc injectors
BLOCK:
B18 block golden eagle sleeved
BC stroker kit 92mm
CP 86mm 14compression pistons
Race bearings
Headers
SMSP copy
I will run this on pumpgas 100octane
I need your personal inputs and comments.
I'll be brief.. All that build stuff and you're going to put a monkey-assed blox TB on there.
I weep for the future..
And don't use that "I don't have a lot of money for this" excuse, either..
I weep for the future..

And don't use that "I don't have a lot of money for this" excuse, either..
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Sounds like a solid build!
Theres a few 92mm stroker engines being built around here, but none are completed yet (including my own). I haven't seen anyone on HT post up results lately of any 92mm engines either. A few years back, there were a few running around (chugger, pondus, team diesel, casey, fink to name a few), but theres not a ton of info on them from what ive seen.
If you stick with that Blox TB, might wanna Loctite the screws and/or stake them to keep them from coming loose. Really any aftermarket TB to be safe. Heard horror stories about screws coming loose and destroying engines before.
Good luck with the build! Keep us updated and post results when its all finished!
Oh, and check your rod to sleeve (bottom of sleeve) clearances. There's a good chance it will need touched up
Theres a few 92mm stroker engines being built around here, but none are completed yet (including my own). I haven't seen anyone on HT post up results lately of any 92mm engines either. A few years back, there were a few running around (chugger, pondus, team diesel, casey, fink to name a few), but theres not a ton of info on them from what ive seen.
If you stick with that Blox TB, might wanna Loctite the screws and/or stake them to keep them from coming loose. Really any aftermarket TB to be safe. Heard horror stories about screws coming loose and destroying engines before.
Good luck with the build! Keep us updated and post results when its all finished!
Oh, and check your rod to sleeve (bottom of sleeve) clearances. There's a good chance it will need touched up
Quick question, why do you think thise 92mm stroke engines have no feedback? Maybe someone you give a good answer? I also want to know why.
Im now planning to use a 90mm skunk throttle body and also insted of using a ultra street, i will be using a skunk ultra race.
Im now planning to use a 90mm skunk throttle body and also insted of using a ultra street, i will be using a skunk ultra race.
Now this is just my opinion but, I think there are so few 92mm builds because anyone going bigger than an OEM 89mm usually jump to either a 95 or 98mm. If you think about it, 99% of turbo cars run the OEM 77.4(B16A), 87.2(B18C) or 89(B18A/B) unless they're making 4-digit HP or just want to "be different", so you won't see much from them. As far as the all motor guys, since we start with such small displacement(sub-2.0L) motor, any gain in displacement possible within the constraints of our block is a plus.
This is why everyone jumps to the 95, 98 or even larger cranks, especially in a drag car builds where long-term reliability, bearing wear and rod/stroke ratio come second to HP numbers and ETs. Also remember a lot of these high HP B's are being built to keep up with K24's, which come stock at 87x99 with a head that flows like a ported B, so it's already an uphill battle with an 86x98 B(not to mention a lot of these K guys are actually 90x106 with 4piston heads, Bastards! lol jk).
I personally like the 92mm crank, I've always seen it as a great compromise between the 89 and 95. More displacement than the 89, and better geometry/less wear(plus better clearance) than the 95. If not abused daily, they tend to go longer between rebuilds than the 95's. I think they're ideal for a moderately driven(probably not daily) car that sees the strip/circuit from time to time. Don't plan to break any records with it but you'll def see/feel a nice bump in torque over the 89 and it's night and day coming from the 87.2mm.
I see you're really doing your research and making your rounds in the forum, so that's good. This place is a wealth of information and there's still a group of good guys to help guide you. Best of luck with the build, I'll be checking in to see more 92 results!
This is why everyone jumps to the 95, 98 or even larger cranks, especially in a drag car builds where long-term reliability, bearing wear and rod/stroke ratio come second to HP numbers and ETs. Also remember a lot of these high HP B's are being built to keep up with K24's, which come stock at 87x99 with a head that flows like a ported B, so it's already an uphill battle with an 86x98 B(not to mention a lot of these K guys are actually 90x106 with 4piston heads, Bastards! lol jk).
I personally like the 92mm crank, I've always seen it as a great compromise between the 89 and 95. More displacement than the 89, and better geometry/less wear(plus better clearance) than the 95. If not abused daily, they tend to go longer between rebuilds than the 95's. I think they're ideal for a moderately driven(probably not daily) car that sees the strip/circuit from time to time. Don't plan to break any records with it but you'll def see/feel a nice bump in torque over the 89 and it's night and day coming from the 87.2mm.
I see you're really doing your research and making your rounds in the forum, so that's good. This place is a wealth of information and there's still a group of good guys to help guide you. Best of luck with the build, I'll be checking in to see more 92 results!
Now this is just my opinion but, I think there are so few 92mm builds because anyone going bigger than an OEM 89mm usually jump to either a 95 or 98mm. If you think about it, 99% of turbo cars run the OEM 77.4(B16A), 87.2(B18C) or 89(B18A/B) unless they're making 4-digit HP or just want to "be different", so you won't see much from them. As far as the all motor guys, since we start with such small displacement(sub-2.0L) motor, any gain in displacement possible within the constraints of our block is a plus.
This is why everyone jumps to the 95, 98 or even larger cranks, especially in a drag car builds where long-term reliability, bearing wear and rod/stroke ratio come second to HP numbers and ETs. Also remember a lot of these high HP B's are being built to keep up with K24's, which come stock at 87x99 with a head that flows like a ported B, so it's already an uphill battle with an 86x98 B(not to mention a lot of these K guys are actually 90x106 with 4piston heads, Bastards! lol jk).
I personally like the 92mm crank, I've always seen it as a great compromise between the 89 and 95. More displacement than the 89, and better geometry/less wear(plus better clearance) than the 95. If not abused daily, they tend to go longer between rebuilds than the 95's. I think they're ideal for a moderately driven(probably not daily) car that sees the strip/circuit from time to time. Don't plan to break any records with it but you'll def see/feel a nice bump in torque over the 89 and it's night and day coming from the 87.2mm.
I see you're really doing your research and making your rounds in the forum, so that's good. This place is a wealth of information and there's still a group of good guys to help guide you. Best of luck with the build, I'll be checking in to see more 92 results!
This is why everyone jumps to the 95, 98 or even larger cranks, especially in a drag car builds where long-term reliability, bearing wear and rod/stroke ratio come second to HP numbers and ETs. Also remember a lot of these high HP B's are being built to keep up with K24's, which come stock at 87x99 with a head that flows like a ported B, so it's already an uphill battle with an 86x98 B(not to mention a lot of these K guys are actually 90x106 with 4piston heads, Bastards! lol jk).
I personally like the 92mm crank, I've always seen it as a great compromise between the 89 and 95. More displacement than the 89, and better geometry/less wear(plus better clearance) than the 95. If not abused daily, they tend to go longer between rebuilds than the 95's. I think they're ideal for a moderately driven(probably not daily) car that sees the strip/circuit from time to time. Don't plan to break any records with it but you'll def see/feel a nice bump in torque over the 89 and it's night and day coming from the 87.2mm.
I see you're really doing your research and making your rounds in the forum, so that's good. This place is a wealth of information and there's still a group of good guys to help guide you. Best of luck with the build, I'll be checking in to see more 92 results!
Thank you. Yes i wont be using this car for my daily driver. I plan to only use it like when i feel like using it. This wont be on a racecar but on my hatch on full interior, or should i say for a weekend car (even if i wont be using it every weekend)
What what do you guys now think about mu build? Before i move more forward i still would like to do more research since im not in a hurry for this. So i need more of your inputs. Also maybe you can help me with the combination of parts for me to use. Engine will be running on 100octane since no e85 available in mu place.
You could probably get away with smaller injectors since your not using E85 and sticking with gas, If you wanted to save a few bucks.
But then again, a little extra grow room is always nice.
Id suggest a permanently installed wideband o2 sensor as well.
I have zero experience with oversized valves but with Pro 3 cams and a 14:1 domed piston, clearances might be really close and your camshaft adjustment range may be limited. Checking all clearances will be critical as with any engine build.
Id also look into some kind of harmonic damper (ATI/Fluidampr) over the stock crank pulley. More stroke = more weight moving at very high speeds = more engine harmonics (bad for engine parts).
Who's gonna be porting the head?
Overall, sounds like a solid build plan. If your using a b18 vtec block (didn't see it mentioned if it was a b18 A, B, or C block), you'll need to block off the oil squirters.
But then again, a little extra grow room is always nice.
Id suggest a permanently installed wideband o2 sensor as well.
I have zero experience with oversized valves but with Pro 3 cams and a 14:1 domed piston, clearances might be really close and your camshaft adjustment range may be limited. Checking all clearances will be critical as with any engine build.
Id also look into some kind of harmonic damper (ATI/Fluidampr) over the stock crank pulley. More stroke = more weight moving at very high speeds = more engine harmonics (bad for engine parts).
Who's gonna be porting the head?
Overall, sounds like a solid build plan. If your using a b18 vtec block (didn't see it mentioned if it was a b18 A, B, or C block), you'll need to block off the oil squirters.
I have a set of ID725 with top hats and plugins that would be good for your build. Good for where you want to be and if you decide to try ethanol they are big enough as well.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Woodbridge, NJ, Middlesex
I had a pretty decent experience with a 86x92 build about 15 years ago...even won a Wally with a 84.5x92 setup...Endyn did the magic for it where I was experimenting at every race and then would give feedback to Larry, send head back he'd slightly tweak and return, etc..
Not sure what the specs are on the crower stroker kit you're using but Larry and I used the his +137 crower long rod and his slipper skirt rollerwave pistons...his head was also magic.
He also kept telling me go with a small TB 64mm or even 72mm etc but I wouldn't listen...he was right you only need a small one...I used a 74mm with his AIR carbon fiber intake manifold, his ridiculous job on a GSR head and his bumpstix cams and I degreed to his specs, SMSP long narrow pipe header and the best we yielded on a dynojet 248C was 284whp which was whomp whomp for that time when the world was all running K-series in our class and we were the only B series.
I would imagine with all the new technology out there you'd be able to pull a good 15hp extra...like individual/COP, faster ECU (I used an old AEM V1 EMS lol), CNC head porting...all that stuff is new technology and can help you now, especially with the camshafts design, roller rockers (I used OWM modified rockers).
good luck with the build.
Greg
Not sure what the specs are on the crower stroker kit you're using but Larry and I used the his +137 crower long rod and his slipper skirt rollerwave pistons...his head was also magic.
He also kept telling me go with a small TB 64mm or even 72mm etc but I wouldn't listen...he was right you only need a small one...I used a 74mm with his AIR carbon fiber intake manifold, his ridiculous job on a GSR head and his bumpstix cams and I degreed to his specs, SMSP long narrow pipe header and the best we yielded on a dynojet 248C was 284whp which was whomp whomp for that time when the world was all running K-series in our class and we were the only B series.
I would imagine with all the new technology out there you'd be able to pull a good 15hp extra...like individual/COP, faster ECU (I used an old AEM V1 EMS lol), CNC head porting...all that stuff is new technology and can help you now, especially with the camshafts design, roller rockers (I used OWM modified rockers).
good luck with the build.
Greg





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