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I've done a fair amount of searching and research on this issue. I set strings up and discovered I've got some toe-in on the rear drivers side. 1/8 to 3/16".
I expect it's either the compensator arm or the trailing arm bushing. I just did the lower lca (skunk2 alpha) and agx struts, etc....
I'm looking at these parts instead of oem, and I'm wondering the opinion of the many here that have experience with these parts.
How's the quality, what'd you think?
Blox set.
..don't know who makes these.
..and of course I'll need a set of these too.
from jdm.
I know that many of you have used these, so your opinion counts. I'm staying with oem height and alignment settings...for the most part.
Before you fire the parts cannon, go get an alignment.
If you get new trailing arm bushings, get OEM or Hardrace.
And spending $160 on toe links is completely insane. I just bought a cheap set on Ebay for like $30 and had a shop press a set of Hardrace bushings into it.
At the very least get a print out from a reputable shop, then get it properly aligned then come back with a print out. You said you just replaced some suspension components yet didn't even get a print out to see if anything was affected? obviously something will change when you go replacing suspension parts.
string is inaccurate none of the shops I used to frequent would do that type of stuff, even if they didn't have a alignment rack is a hack.
At the very least get a print out from a reputable shop, then get it properly aligned then come back with a print out. You said you just replaced some suspension components yet didn't even get a print out to see if anything was affected? obviously something will change when you go replacing suspension parts.
string is inaccurate none of the shops I used to frequent would do that type of stuff, even if they didn't have a alignment rack is a hack.
I'm out in the middle of nowhere. The nearest shop is 200 miles, and it may or may not be reputable. In my searches here, I found a good number of people that do their own alignments. I intend to learn how. In my 45 years of owning various vehicles, I have rarely ever needed anyone else to work on my cars....motorcycles, boats, and not at all in the last 30 years, except one emergency repair while I was traveling.
What exactly is there, to adjust back there? It all just bolts together.
I don't think anything changed doing the suspension. It was probably already like that.....still can't tell anything is wrong, when driving.
There's slider bolts on the toe arms that you adjust, being in TX they are probably easily movable give it a try. Just cause you cant feel it doesn't meant stuff doesn't shift with time and when you put new parts on, if you don't want to get it done digitally just look up the specs and get as close as you can.
It could certainly be the compensator, or it's bushings. I see no sign of wear or movement there, but my trailing arm bushings do look a bit cracked and worn. I noticed that when I changed the LCAs, struts, hubs and....etc...rotors, calipers.
I just figured I might as well replace most or all of it, one bit at a time. I want to keep the car, and don't mind spending some money on it.
...and I think that some of the aftermarket (not all) is better than oem, and might last very well.
If trailing arm bushings are stock then replace them anyways before alignment. I use the bushings in the 3rd picture, they are Prothane, been on my 91 Integra for many years.
Worn parts mean the dynamic alignment will move away from spec as the suspension goes under load, so fix all worn parts to maintain proper alignment.
The adjustable compensator arms I do NOT like. Changing the length of that arm, as the aftermarket units allow, changes the geometry of how the suspension is designed to work. If the toe cannot be aligned to spec then you have a worn/bent part(s) somewhere.
For camber, I again don't like to change the length of those upper arms as it changes the geometry as mentioned before. The ole' longer bolts and spacing the arm out from the body work best as the length of the arm remains the same.
Worn parts mean the dynamic alignment will move away from spec as the suspension goes under load, so fix all worn parts to maintain proper alignment.
Yes of course. I just want to be prepared, and I've found I can get most everything at summit.
I also agree and have decided on the prothane bushings for the trailing arms. I'm not going away from stock, and changing any geometry would make the job much harder than it needs to be. I did want to improve on the compensators, because I'm concerned at the age of my car....and that it's mostly untouched, one, now second owner. These original compensators could be worn out.
So new bushings for the compensator arms? New compensator arms from Acura, or the adjustable type?
Gee, I'll get new trailing arms if I need too. I'd like to keep this car for at least another 10 years if at all possible.
I'm trying to get everything shipped at one time. I'm out in the middle of nowhere, so if I make the wrong decision I'll have to wait a week or more to get another part. That's one of the reasons I bug everybody on this forum.
.
Last edited by 1990IntegraLS; Dec 27, 2015 at 10:38 PM.
No need to replace trailing arm unless bent and they don't bend too easily
It is easy enough to check the bushings in your compensator arms. I know I installed an Energy Suspension kit on the car but those bushings weren't included, and if I remember correct they were fine and I left them.
Prothane does make the compensator arm bushings and Summit is great to deal with.
No need to replace trailing arm unless bent and they don't bend too easily
The other reason, when I did the brakes/rotors and hubs, I found the trailing arms to be pretty corroded. One or more of the screws holding the backing plate wasn't fully torque-able. The spindles were fine, but the rest was marginal. I didn't feel that taking the time to paint them "in place" was worth the effort, and wouldn't solve the issue of bad threads.
I can get both new and used, but all that I've seen are abs, my car is not abs, so I have to find out if I can install the abs type, without abs.
Ok, yes you can use the ABS version it fits the same
I called DelRay Acura in Florida and asked them. I've bought a number of things there. They didn't think they were the same, but the guy on the phone didn't really seem like he knew, but guessing.
It turns out too, that even though they were listed on the site, they are unavailable. I have found a used pair (abs type) on e.bay that look better than mine.
Tho, at $300, I think I'll see what I can do to restore mine first. At the least I can paint them and use lock tight or per.matex on the threads for the backing plates.
I just spent nearly $300 on the prothane bushings for both the trailing arms and compensators, and some alignment plates, etc. SS throttle cable....
I am admittedly impatient. I don't like having it up on tripods very long, but I'll do a good job regardless. It won't take more than a couple extra days....cold drying time even with a heater.
When I had my sailboat (32' Irwin) in Corpus, and I work almost 600 miles from there. I always left the sails covered, but installed in case I needed to get it out of the slip in a hurry. I spent about $800 on extra heavy sail covers just for that reason.
Impatient for a reason.
I could get to Corpus in a little less then 7 hours, in my Integra of course. Midnight to 7am.
I would absolutely NOT use polyurethane for trailing arm bushings. There are so many problems associated with it. They're a compliance bushing. They need to move. The trailing arm doesn't just swing up and down. It pivots quite a bit inboard/outboard as well.
I would buy a genuine honda bushing as choice #1.
Hardrace as choice #2.
Spherical ball bushings in that position are good for race cars. Not street driven cars. I would still rather do that than polyurethane.
I would not do polyurethane. I would rather get punched in the stomach than install polyurethane bushings.
Energy suspension used to have a note that they did not recommend installing polyurethane RTA bushings unless the car was being used for drag racing. That was why they were not included in the kit.
I've owned a car that a previous owner installed poly RTA bushings on. If I was capable of feeling emotion, I would have wept.
Most polyurethane bushings in the lower control arm positions are bad enough. In the RTA position, they are awful. Just ******* awful.
The Prothane TA bushings work great, used them for many years now so I speak from actual experience with the product in question. The shaft itself does move, it is a separate piece. Vehicle handles amazingly well, never had a problem.
Search a bit. The rear suspension binds up because it can't move. Eventually, the eye of the bushing elongates and it fails. Usually this doesn't take long. People have done it in as little as a year.
Think about how the rear suspension moves. Why are there holes in the factory bushing? Solid poly doesn't work for this application. The fact that they're not included in the master kit is a clue.
I also speak from experience.
You do have problems with that bushing whether you know it or not.
If they work for you, then they work for you, I suppose. I'm just pointing out that they do have quite a large flaw that I am assuming you didn't think about before I posted this.
For example: a lot of people claim they have "no issues" pinching brake hoses with pliers. Obviously there is a HUGE issue. But...they haven't seen it and will continue to recommend their method.
I am not trying to be condescending...so please don't take the comments that way.
Last edited by B serious; Dec 29, 2015 at 07:47 AM.
The Prothane TA bushings work great, used them for many years now so I speak from actual experience.....
Originally Posted by B serious
...Why are there holes in the factory bushing? Solid poly doesn't work for this application. The fact that they're not included in the master kit is a clue.
I also speak from experience.....
I always appreciate differing experience.
I do have to wonder, that because I like going around corners pretty fast, from time to time (as my signature suggests), that if the steel rod is not connected to the bushing, then there could be an issue there, but I don't really know.
I have purchased the prothane set, but will consider the OEMs, which lasted in my car 25 years. Though the original owner did not push the car around corners at all. He used the car for almost strictly, long distance driving on I-10. I don't push this car a lot, but when I want to do a bit of serious cornering from time to time, I want it to hold up.
Rubber lasts longer than polyurethane. Especially in a compliance bushing that's always pivoting on multiple axes.
The disadvantage to rubber is that it has to be installed properly (clocked) to last.
There are companies like F7 and Whiteline that make poly bushings to closer tolerances and with superior designs. They do not make a solid polyurethane compliance bushing. And their prices reflect their quality and longevity.
Energy/prothane kits are primitive. Sure, they deflect less. But they wear MUCH faster than rubber and translate a lot of unwanted harshness to the cabin.
Poly works fine for budget race car setups, and they work OK for upper control or toe arm applications.
They're wrong as hell for a RTA bushing application. If you want to "corner fast", they will wear faster. The rear trailing arm follows the hub. It swings up/down AND inboard/outboard as the suspension travels..
Uh-oh, rear toe-in.
