I bought a 97 civic and swapped a b series in it and wired some gauges (guessing this was where I messed up) tried to start it and wasn't getting power to anything. I jumped the relay and the pump kicked on so I replaced the main relay. Still nothing. Then I found out there was no power to pin 5 on the relay and my dash lights were not coming on. So naturally I replaced the ignition switch now I have power to pin 5 but the relay still isn't clicking at all and the dash lights aren't coming on either and nowwwww my gauges are either half way lighting up or just flickering and cutting off. I'm at a loss

 

Bump

 

Sounds like dash fuse 13 is blown.

 

It's good. Replaced it with a new one to rule it out.

 

Is there now battery voltage at pin 5?

 

Yes. I checked pin 1 and 5 by grounding to pin 2 and both had voltage

 

sounds like a ground issue to me.

 

^Makes no sense. Main relay pin 2 connects to dash fuse 31.

 

The thread I read for troubleshooting said to do that. There was continuity. What do you suggest

 

Unplug main relay.

Turn key to ON(II).

In connector, jump pin 7 to pin 4. Does pump run?

In connector, jump pin 5 to pin 4. Does pump run?

 

Ok I'll get back to you as soon as I get back around the car

 

My Clip doesn't look like that.

 

Flip it over. Look at it from the wires side. Not the the terminal side, like your photo..

 

Match the wire colors.

 

Ok so I was having a ground issue but I fixed it and here's what's going on now. I turn the key to on-1 my gauges come on. Turn the key to on-2 gauges shut off, brake light in cluster turns on, still no clicks from relay but when I jumped it the pump kicked on both times, turn the key to start and my radiator fan kicked on the first few times then it didn't do anything for a minute then I plugged the relay back in and it clicked but only when I turned the key to start.

 

Details?

Ohm test the ignition switch. See FAQs sticky.

 

It was the ground cable from battery to chassis. The terminal had wiggled loose from the terminal. I don't have a way to ohm test the ignition switch but I have another switch I will run the tests with again tomorrow.

 

You can test for continuity, but you don't have a way to ohm test? Uh...what?

 

You got it.. I don't own a multimeter and I used a friends test light.

 

Then...you never actually tested for continuity. Gotcha. Go buy a multimeter. They're like, $10 at Walmart. You can't actually do the proper tests to diagnose your problem without one.

 

Haha. Ok I'll grab one on my way to the car tomorrow. How do I correctly ohm test the switch.

 

 

i win again!!!1!!!1

 

Ok so I tested both the switches I had and they both were showing resistance over .5-.7 they never really settled, kinda bounced all over the place. So both are bad correct? I will order a new one today

 

Ok so I tested both the switches I had and they both were showing resistance over .5-.7 they never really settled, kinda bounced all over the place. So both are bad correct? I ***** order a new one today