obd1 gsr bolt and tune
I just finished rebuilding the head on my 95 gsr b18c1, had .015" decked off the head, and did the valve stem seals. I also thoroughly cleaned the valves and their seats without damage. No power steering, no ac, long tube 4-1 headers, stock I.M. (which has the possibility of air bypass, changing the runner length of the manifold). After the Exedy clutch and motor mounts go in that I have I will be looking for some horse power. I know i'm not supposed to make a wish number without knowing what i'll be making at the dyno, but with the single belt pulley, fresh head and gasket, higher compression, and 140k miles i'd guess I was making something like 150-170. Headers and test pipe might help a little. I have a gates timing belt and adjustable cam sprockets, and i'd really like to make 200 hp. What would be the cheapest and easiest way of doing this? How much is a tune after i slap on the desired parts like cams and potentially an intake manifold? I've heard OBD1 systems have modifiable fuel trim, negating the need for a completely new ECU. that would be nice. Anyways, if anyone has any suggestions on how i could get to two hundred for cheap please let me know. I'd also like it if my low end toque were higher than it is now, hence, the long tubers.
A stock healthy gsr should put you around 150whp on the dyno. Without the belts etc.. i'd say you probably free'd up 1-3 whp. Milling head will retard your igntion timing some to.
Now depending on if your asking for 200hp or 200whp. Dyno reads power at the wheels (whp) and not engine hp (hp). Dyno's readings are about 15% less.
Now if your talking about 200hp, that can be done with bolt on's and cams easily. But if your talking about 200whp that's another ball game. For whp nitrous would be your cheapest way to get there, but refills will add up $$$.
Now depending on if your asking for 200hp or 200whp. Dyno reads power at the wheels (whp) and not engine hp (hp). Dyno's readings are about 15% less.
Now if your talking about 200hp, that can be done with bolt on's and cams easily. But if your talking about 200whp that's another ball game. For whp nitrous would be your cheapest way to get there, but refills will add up $$$.
thanks guys, I really appreciate the input. I like the idea of keeping it factory internally, since the wear patterns are already 140k set on the cams/rocker arms/ect. But, next question when leaving the realm of N/A, turbo or super? I've heard good things about the Jackson supercharger set up in regards to reliability. My only beef with turbo's is dealing with the heat. It gets hot where I live. I know any force-induced motor will have to address the issue because of the relationship between heat and pressure. All inputs are appreciated.
Semi un-related, but thought i'd throw it out there, I've got another build sitting on a stand in my garage. B18b1 bored 81.5mm w/ corresponding forged weisco's and forged eagles. Head and block both decked, I think the weisco's were 9.5:1 or something. I'm not 100% what I want to do with it yet, I still need bearings, and probably valve train upgrade, but I always imagined it going into the gsr, and the gsr going into a eg hatch, or coupe or something. Nothing is set in stone, except for the desire to reach 200hp (doesn't have to be to the wheels) on the gsr before any further decisions are made.
Semi un-related, but thought i'd throw it out there, I've got another build sitting on a stand in my garage. B18b1 bored 81.5mm w/ corresponding forged weisco's and forged eagles. Head and block both decked, I think the weisco's were 9.5:1 or something. I'm not 100% what I want to do with it yet, I still need bearings, and probably valve train upgrade, but I always imagined it going into the gsr, and the gsr going into a eg hatch, or coupe or something. Nothing is set in stone, except for the desire to reach 200hp (doesn't have to be to the wheels) on the gsr before any further decisions are made.
Supercharge will make your motor run hotter than turbo because it runs off a belt making your motor work harder. You will need to upgrade your fuel system: Injectors, Fuel Pump, & Fuel Pressure Regulator/guage. Tuning will be the most important thing here.
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I was going to mention that as well, if i'm going out of n/a then i'm definitely in the wrong section. that's a good point about the super charger though. I thought I was ready to start exploring the idea but upon completion of my top end rebuild but when I fired my baby up today for the first time I was devastated to find steam coming from the tail pipe, until well after I reached operating temp and ran it for a bit after that. steam steam lots of steam. Cracked head I hope not. Leak down test tomorrow I will. When the head was in the machine shop I should've paid the extra and did a pressure check but I cheaped out... hopefully not ending up in paying more than I have already, in time, cost, and lack of d.d.
if I do have to yank the head again I think i'm going to tap into some accounts, bite the bullet, and do motor mounts and tranny at the same time. I have an exedy clutch begging to be installed and my gsr trans is going out slowly but surely. ugh... if it aint one thing its a god damn nother
if I do have to yank the head again I think i'm going to tap into some accounts, bite the bullet, and do motor mounts and tranny at the same time. I have an exedy clutch begging to be installed and my gsr trans is going out slowly but surely. ugh... if it aint one thing its a god damn nother
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