Hi guys. My son is picking up a 2000 Accord 5 speed with 200k that is overheating. I assume it is a 2.3L 4 cylinder as I don't believe they made a V6 with the 5 speed.

From the little we know the owners put a new radiator, water pump and timing belt since they were in there and it still overheats.

My son is about 3 hours away and I will be going down to spend the day trying to see if we can find the problem.

I'm looking from the forum on what things I can check that may be causing the overheating problem. Unfortunately I only have the 1 day to so so. I'm going to pick up a new OEM radiator cap and remove the thermostat for now. I'm thinking maybe head gasket, but don't know how to test for that... but also don't want to over look other possible causes.

ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

Was the cooling system properly bled?

Look at the thermostat housing on the intake manifold side. There will be a small bleeder screw. Open the radiator cap, and then open the bleeder screw until a solid stream of coolant come out, top off radiator coolant.

Do not turn on the engine until this has been done, it will overheat and can lead to a warped head/blown head gasket.

 

Hey Mad Mike.

Thanks for the tip. No idea if it's been bled but that's where I'll start.

So, car off, open bleeder valve and fill until sold stream fluid comes out of bleeder... got it.

I though it had to be running to bleed like on some cars.

 

if it's running, coolant will shoot out that hole much more than you want.

MAD MIKE - correct me if I'm wrong but the proper way is to (after opening the bleeder valve (with the motor off) and closing it once you see a steady stream, remove the radiator cap (after it's cool, of course), attach a special funnel that attaches to the radiator opening, turn your HVAC setting to hot (fan need not be on), turn on & idle the motor and continually add 50/50 coolant as-needed.
As the car heats up, the thermostat should open, causing the coolant to flow through the motor, thereby forcing air bubbles through the system into the funnel - evidenced by bubbling.
However, it sounds like you need a quick "parking-lot" type solution, which this is not. :/

You might consider taking a multimeter with you and test the fan relay and fan motors (?)

 

Never buy a car that is already overheating unless you compression test it to make sure the head is not leaking and causing the overheating, which would basically make the car fairly worthless unless you plan on tackling the issue yourself after buying it.

If the owner doesn't allow you to do a quick compression test I would move on.

 

Not on Series F engines. Highest point in the cooling system on our cars is the thermostat housing bleed screw. Running the engine will just churn up the coolant, no need to do that, it just makes for a hot mess at best or a crappy air bleed at worst.

I usually attach a 12" piece of clear hose to the bleeder screw crack it open and then just fill the cooling system til I see coolant start to rise up the hose. Allow it to sit for a moment to make sure there is no air trapped, close the bleeder, remove hose, top off rad if need be and done you are.
Don't forget to turn the heater core to full hot as there is a water valve for the heater core, you want that to fill with coolant to prevent any trapped air.

IIRC the FSM does have some elaborate way of bleeding the system, but it is not needed.
Car just needs to be on a level surface.
Heater temp turned to full hot, to open water valve.
Crack open bleeder on thermostat housing. If radiator is already full just air bleed as needed.
Fill radiator while watching for a solid stream of coolant.
Close bleeder screw when solid stream of coolant comes out.
Fill radiator up.
Replace radiator cap.
Empty coolant reservoir of old coolant, clean if need be.
Fill coolant reservoir to correct level.
Drive on with your bad self.