jdm d15b swap - IACV but not IACV???
Since July I have gone through 4 IACVs, every time it has thrown a code for the iacv... I'm at a loss. My car is stock except jdm d15b. I just put in another new IACV 2 weeks ago. Tonight my car started to feel like it was going die while at idle, No code, no surging. Anyone know what could cause my car to kill FOUR IACVs. Lastly, I came here for help not to be treated like an idiot. So if you have nothing positive to say then shove off.
Would you happen to have a IG? It would just make it easier, for the both of us. We could possibly continue the conversation on there. Help me, help you. Once you give me this, I can further assist you.
IACV are not cheap, at least for my 95 b18c1, autozone wanted 250ish. Some good DIY's on cleaning these and FITV's. IACV I've just reinstalled with head gasket switch has me nervous, for how horrible it looked on the inside. Thoroughly cleaned and regasket'd fingers crossed no more hunting idle
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She didn't post what model civic she has. So I figured I could obtain this thru possibly a DM, and follow on IG. Convenient was the idea.
Edit: And that **** has ALOT of water
Okay. I don't get a coffee for ecu. If I switch the ecu can I use the 3 stage vtec? I been using the one from my y8.
Swap in the correct ecu and report back.
Not necessarily.
Does your head have 3 stage VTEC? The ECU isn't the only part of the equation here.


The ECU she's using might BE the right ECU. She hasn't told us which D15B she has. How about we all stop jumping to conclusions and get full information before telling her to buy things?


Not even all of king Midas' water could quench your thirstiness.
Edit: And that **** has ALOT of water
You wouldn't get a code for the wrong ecu. The ecu can't jump to conclusions like humans can. All the ecu knows is that it is in charge of keeping an engine running. It cannot differentiate between engines.
Swap in the correct ecu and report back.
Edit: And that **** has ALOT of water
You wouldn't get a code for the wrong ecu. The ecu can't jump to conclusions like humans can. All the ecu knows is that it is in charge of keeping an engine running. It cannot differentiate between engines.
Swap in the correct ecu and report back.
It's the 3 stg vtec. I'm running the vtec solenoid from my y8. I didn't know I could use the 3 stage with obd2 car, so I took it off, I still have it. I'm using my stock ecu, obd2. My receipt for the motor says d15b d 1493cc vtec 3-st.
I kept everything the same except the d15b motor, timing belt, and alternator belt. The place I got the motor from told me to keep everything as is except those things.
This swap was done over a year ago, it ran with no problems until 6months later.
I kept everything the same except the d15b motor, timing belt, and alternator belt. The place I got the motor from told me to keep everything as is except those things.
This swap was done over a year ago, it ran with no problems until 6months later.
Last edited by SOHCgirl; Dec 8, 2015 at 08:45 PM.
There is no chipped ECU for the 3 stage I know of. You can contact someone like xenocron or the like and see if they do. The issue is the two stages of VTEC and how to activate them separately when most VTEC ECU's only have one circuit for that.
There is a chipped ecu solution, it requires a custom basemap and the gsr iab circuit. Gotta find that D-series post....but its there.
Not having the correct ECU is not the issue here. You've either got an open or short in the harness or the ECU is bad. Test the wiring from the IACV connector to the ECU (blue wire) and from the IACV connector to the dead plug on the driver's side rear corner of the engine bay (yellow/black wire) Check for continuity from end to end (there should be), continuity between the two wires (there should be none), and continuity between either wire and ground (there should be none)
If everything checks out, wiggle the harness while watching the multimeter and see if anything changes. Also check the IACV for corrosion. If all that checks out I'd try another P2P ECU.
If everything checks out, wiggle the harness while watching the multimeter and see if anything changes. Also check the IACV for corrosion. If all that checks out I'd try another P2P ECU.
A short or open in the IACV circuit would throw an IACV code.
And as you probably already know, the P2P ECU is a bad match for the 3-stage VTEC engine.
If you use an automatic ECU, possibly. I know with old OBD0 ECUs you could tune with Turbo Edit and use the part of the ECU responsible for controlling the automatic transmission lockup solenoids to control the vtec solenoid instead. I'm not sure if you can do something like this with crome/ECTune/Hondata/Etc or not.



