Hey all. Doing a valve job tomorrow (again.) My engine is a D15Z1, and I found info that they are supposed to be:

Intake: 0.18—0.22 mm (0.007—0.009 in)
Exhaust: 0.23—0.27 mm (0.009—0.011 in)

WHAT I KNOW:

1. To do it first thing in the morning, engine full cold.
2. That the Intake valves are towards the rear of the car, and the exhaust valves are towards the front.
3. That the exhaust valves are always larger.

HOW I HAVE SEEN TO DO IT:
1. Time each cylinder to TDC by rotating crank pulley, I have gotten good enough that I don't even need to take the tire off anymore. Going by word UP: And 1-3-4-2...
12 o'clock = 1
9 o'clock = 3
6 o'clock = 4
3 o'clock = 2

Where I messed up at is when I got rushed and distracted, I adjusted Cylinder 2's valves when I should have done Cylinder 3. This is why I must now re-do and re-check all of them.

2. Take box end of wrench, loosen nut.
3. Take screwdriver, adjust screw.
4. Take feeler gauge, feel resistance under screw "like I am pulling a full gallon of water or milk across a smooth table with a piece of paper."
5. HOLD SCREW RIGHT THERE, Tighten nut.
6. Do next valve.

Here is a pic of my pulley turning skills, newly aquired. (I know my tires suck, but I'm not doing any racing Ferrari or anything right now, so. They should be good enough, given all other considerations..)



The video of my valve work today is in the What Dud You Do Today car thread.

Questions:

1. Does it matter if engine is turned clockwise or counterclockwise?

2. Do you put your valves to the looser or tighter side of the spec? And why?

3. Should I re-do a compression test (engine cold) after I get all 16 valves right?

Thank you.

 

Only ever turn counterclockwise. Turning clockwise will ruin timing belt tension, which in turn will ruin the motor. Put it right in the middle of the spec. No, don't do a compression test afterwards unless something is wrong. Doing diagnostic tests without a reason is stupid.

 

within. why do anything different? if it's .007-.009 use the .008 until it drags.

don't over complicate this. it's a stock motor. people drive their Hondas to 250k miles without ever adjusting the valves.

 

It's not complicated. I did mine in about twenty minutes.. My car runs like a top..

 

I hope you also check the crank pulley for the white TDC mark to be in the sites when you put the word up to the 12 o'clock position.

 

Well, sure enough, I did it wrong the first time. The second time I used a slightly unconventional method, but I did nail it.

I shot video, it's up on my Youtube, but. The details: I took a long screwdriver, got each cyl to where it was coming down on the compression stroke (I learned "Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow.") When there, for each cyl, I saw which rocker arms I could not jiggle. Sure enough, when attempting to use my feeler gauge in the proper manner, I put roughly "half" of my valves too tight.. lost compression in two cylinders. I backed off the nut, adjusted the screw for EACH ONE I COULD NOT JIGGLE WITH MY FINGERS EVER SO SLIGHTLY, and re-tightened nut.. checked again for jiggling, went to next cyl.

I wanted to be sure I got it right. And this engine now has compression of:

1 - 150psi
2 - 175psi
3- 165psi
4 - 170psi.

Presently doing non-valve related things, double checking wiring and letting air bleed from cooling system, letting it run and circulate and ultimately stretch it's legs a little bit.

Car went about 10 miles this week.. NOW the compression numbers are looking good.

And if this head gasket holds.. it just might work.

 

^^ The method above of checking for rocker slack only was suggested by a Honda owner, of the same model, on another forum.

And, dare I say it.. What he suggested had great results.

This in the interest of full disclosure, since I obviously did not educate myself on that, or, applied the manner I saw in video.. not optimally. And lost compression due to too tight.

 

I am happy to report that I have much higher compression after doing the valves. 150-175-165-170 cold.

It now does "Hard Starting" so.. Changing the plugs, then that is my next mission to figure out.

Almost got it.

 

Good luck!

 

:sarcasm:

 

Read reply #5 in this thread: Valve clearance too tight? - Honda Civic Forum

 

Lol, trying to picture OP messing with timing

 

i was helping him via youtube. it runs, that's way further than i expected it to get. its loud, seems to be missing a bit in his drive vids, but shockingly enough, it runs and drives.

 

And.. If I get the timing right, it may run amazingly.

I ran into former co-workers last night..

1. Idle was because electrical part (?) Of IACV was not plugged in. SHOULD idle smooth now.

2. Demonstrated that my timing was "way too advanced." Told me how to adjust it. Explained what a Rev should sound like when it's rught.. as opposed to a pop/backfire sound when revving mine. I told him "That sounded bad" but he said "Yes, that's why you need to adjust it, it can cause damage." I just let that one be. Told him to not Rev it like that again, please. This all within two blocks of travel..

So, the next result will be BETTER THAN this, for those that have not seen. (*idle has been fixed since this video.. now I read codes, and time this thing.)

When I put that radiator cap back on, with coolant antifreeze/water mix, and did not see clouds of white puffy smoke, or smoke of any kind... nor see milkshake under the cap when I turned it off.. I knew there was hope.

I might actually get this car back right (with no A/C of course LOL) today.

Last night, best run yet, before the end of today..

 

Oh, yeah.

Road trials today. Will bleed air from cooling system. Timing is much better. Still stinks when it runs probably still burning stuff off, plus the exhaust issue.

I think we got this..

 

About to drive it to the store to go get some NOS energy drink. I feel my disconnected sensors are causing some driveability issues. (And, once we get into advanced "what is what," I would like to do the VTEC bypass or disable..)

This the 1995 Civic with the engine code D15Z1 VTEC-E, for those not familiar with my car.

The first is immediately to the left of the upper hose, where it goes to the cylinder head. There are two sensors. Pointed to with my first gers.



Here is another pic of it, with one of two connectors in its immediate vicinity. Took note to get the color of the wires. This is one of two loose hanging connectors..



The other: (*to the person that gave me advice previously on this wire, I am now in a frame of focus to concentrate on it. I thought my car might not make it at one point. I rescued it.)



And, as I still have no temperature Indicated. This WAS connected.. Right spot ? (Maybe I don't have a thermostat. I forget)

 

The single post on farthest to the back or closer to the hose is for the temp gauge in the dash.

The two pin one with the grey housing is the ECT sensor for the ECU and tells the ECU when the car is warm.

Usually a single black wire boot for the gauge one and a grey two pin female plug for the ECT one. Please see the image below:

 

Excellent. And Thank you!

Let me go look now to see if I can find and connect..

 

^^^ AWESOME! I HAVE DASH TEMP AGAIN! :D

Now I must locate this Green and Black wire..

 

^^ OK the connector looks different, but I think it goes to VTEC.
might have to cut it off and splice



*edit: Mine has the wire but no connector so.. snip snip time

I see the connector is the same now. Now if only that had to do with my idle. :/

 

One thread per topic. Merged.

 

You shouldn't need to cut and splice anything, you need to route the wire harness the right way. It's pretty simple to line up everything.

 

Breaking news.

Upper hose: "Warm."
Cap? Warm to touch at first.. then cool/cold.
Lower hose: COLD.

Repeated three times. Temperature going from almost pegged to normal in 5 minutes with fan on...

What does this mean?

I got a LONG (23:45, Fully Documented) and SHORT (30 seconds, while It is doing it) going on at same time.

And should I flush the system...

 

Caoboy, this is why I said that.

 

Sounds like your thermostat is not opening or you have a leak in your cooling system.