Hello all,



I have a 99 civic coupe, this is what is done to the car,

H22A
sk2 pro series manifold
sk2 68 mm throttle body
345 factory injectors
ebay headers
Msd digital 6 with blaster ss coil
stock block , stock valvetrain,
2.5 piping, no cat, comtech midpipe with thrush muffler.
Basically just very minor mods...


Ecm p72 chrome mapped to H22 street tune.
Plugs used were 4291 Ngk v power gapped @ 0.44.
fuel pressure @ 38 on idle.
launch @ 3100 rpm on msd launch control.

Transmission is a M2B4 Lsd and I used Lenso vpd with M&H 22x8x13 slicks...Drag dr-16 205/50/15 rears....suspension is Nuespeed race all around on stock shocks.


Now this is my first time out with this setup and best pass @ Sacramento Raceway was 13.635 @ 101.58 on a 70 degree day with a very bad RT.
The car pretty much was put together and taken out to get a ballpark of the time it was laying down.

I have plans on using Zex wet nitrous kit as soon as my safety blowdown tube arrives at my house as the race track would not allow me to make a nitrous pass without one installed.

Before I make my nitrous pass, I would like to take some suggestions on what changes I should do to the motor. I'm shooting for 13.3 to 13.4 all motor times.
change plugs, advance, retard timing, change cam gear settings, buy a non ebay better header, lol....


What can you guys with h22s tell me from your own experiences.

Thank You.

 

Call around local to you and get it dyno'd to see how healthy it is or dyno'd tuned. Compare dyno H22 #'s... I would do a compression test now on the motor to see where it is at especially if planning to use nitrous so can gauge if motor takes too much of a beating...

Your launch is way too low... probably losing big there... need to be up in the 5500-6500 area...

If you go with the Wet Nitrous.... your will most likely need to find a dyno tuner that will tune it on crome... you will most likely then at that point have 2 chips for crome that you will manually need to swap into the ECU... one for nitrous hit and one for daily/NA.

The header you have needs to be bigger especially on nitrous hit to see large gains...

 

A Good burnout and a 6-7000 launch with the 2 step will help you a lot for your E.T!

 

Nice!

I'll be going back out this weekend to test n tune @ Sac Raceway.

I'll try launching much higher, also I have plans to use a tri y header. Also have Iridium plugs that I'm thinking about using.

 

Get a set of solid mounts also. Definitely need to launch at a higher rpm. I have gone 12.7@107 in an ek hatch(full interior dx with me weighing 220lbs) on 22" slicks. Bone stock motor with only a cheep megan racing header/skunk2 intake/62mm tb. Street tuned.

Just takes practice man. Play with it and try things out. Youll only get better at it.

 

Wow! That is very inspiring. One thing I forgot to mention was tire pressure. I had mine at 17 psi. Should I go lower or raise it?

Also, thank you guys so very much for the input so far.

 

Much Lower! 6.5-8psi ideally. Try increments of .5 psi until you 60' goes up. Then dial it back down.
Launch between 6k-8k. Try increments of 300 rpm.

 

Sweet!
What I've gathered so far...

definitely raise my launch,
lower Psi,
make changes in small increments and try different things. i figure it'll be a good idea to take lots of notes as well.

With everyone's advice, I'm hoping to improve on my E.T. coming Saturday.
Wish me luck.

I'll post ( hopefully improved) timeslip Saturday.

Thank you guys!

Gonna go 2.8 @ 6000mph! yay!

 

Good luck buddy. Also, not that you should or should not. But if you are hooking very good with higher pressure Id imagine running it would be better. Lower tire pressure will give you more rolling resistance the rest of the way down the track. Of course there will always be a happy median. But IMO and my experience. The lower my tire pressure regardless of 60 foot the more my car suffers up top. For instance, I was going 10.35 for almost a year in my turbo car on 22.5 psi of boost. If my tire pressure was 7-8 I would trap 144.5 ... if my pressure was 5.5-6.5 I would trap 142.5. Both 1/8th miles would be 113mph. I tried this 5-10 times to prove to my buddies my theory. Flat slicks are harder to roll then fairly well aired up slicks.
So I am not trying to tell you what to do, but try many different things. Every setup will vary. But at the power level you are at. If you can hook as good with more pressure it might just be beneficial.

Good luck at the track!

 

Thank you ekcivicf20b,

Considering I will launch at a higher rpm, I'll try my initial psi around 11 and see how that goes. Making changes accordingly.I did notice some wheel spin launching @ 3100 with 17psi. One of my friends also mentioned rolling resistance with low psi slicks. Being able to actually make some passes will be the only way to find that sweet spot. The weather here in Sacramento has been in the 50's lately. I'm hoping it doesn't rain tomorrow so I can make a few nice passes.

Going off the car subject, and into RT on the track,
How important is a good RT. I've made a few passes with .2 and .3 RT's. The 13.635 run had a .7 RT. I'm sure it affects overall ET. Should I be concerned and try to focus on being consistent with a low RT? or is .5 about the average?

Thanks.

 

If you want to try 11psi in the slicks, do so. However, lower the pressure afterwards and you will see better 60's.

Reaction time has no relation to Elapsed time. You could sit on the line for 60 seconds and run a 7 second pass.

 

Haha!

"Reaction time has no relation to Elapsed time. You could sit on the line for 60 seconds and run a 7 second pass."

I love that explanation. I was always confused about RT's relation to ET. Simple yet perfect answer.


Now onto Launching, I've searched and see preloading...

All I do now is pre-stage, roll in, stage, no e brake, gas pedal to the floor , clutch pedal all the way down, and thumb on the 2 step button....light hits, I let go of clutch and go...

I'm certain this is not the proper way. I might break an axle soon...

I will practice preloading as well to see if mt E.T. improves.

Thanks.

 

Here is a good and clear video of me launching in my civic. I preload with my ebrake still lol. I routinely cut 1.58-1.64 60's over powering first and spinning.

 

Thank you for sharing the video and a late congrats on the 9 sec run ekcivicf20b.

Yesterday as I got ready to head out to the track, I made a slow drive down my neighborhood. As soon as I made a right turn my passenger side axle popped out. I limped the car back home and decided to look into what caused the problem. Turns out one of the bearings on the cv joint had split and was binding against the inner cup causing the axle to pull out as I made a turn.

So unfortunately I wasnt able to go make a pass. Good news is that the problem has been fixed and a quick test drive proved the car is ready for next week.

 

Even with that cheap header moving up to a 2.5" collector would help. Then actually having the car tuned will make a big difference over a basemap. Like others said lower the psi in your slicks and up the launch rpm. When u fix that axle learn to preload at the line or else you'll begin to snap more axles once you start launching harder. And seat time of course will give you a few tenths for free

 

What axles you have? Prelude or Accord midshaft?

Just food for thought if you don't have an Accord or Prelude inner joint on passenger side axle... just using a Teg axle the axle will not fully clip in and the axle will come in and out especially on turns and damage the trans.

 

I'm using accord intermediate shaft with accord male inners. Shaft is integra with integra outers. Both side axles are male-male instead of male-male and female-male.

I made sure to tug on the inner and tried to pry it out to make sure it was seated well.
I'm now looking into installing a staging brake in the car. Have been researching and seems I can add in-line staging brake.

Also want to get the Wilwood DPHA front brake setup. Even tho the kit utilizes a 10.2 262mm rotor, and clears 15 in wheels, I'm afraid it wont clear my Lenso 13's.

Any opinions?

 

Teg GSR and no bigger

kind of a waste to go bigger... for 1/4 mile stuff... better investment would be a Tri Y 1320 logic or high end header...

at $314 shipped one of the best flowing headers at that price... give it's china but flows and will flow enough for 240+ whp semi builds... add a flexpipe for longevity on the china welds...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1320-Perform...xWFf3a&vxp=mtr

 

Funny you say that, 1320 is owned by a friend of mine, Jeff. I'll go pay him a visit, I was thinking about getting the same header. His shop is 10 minutes away from my home.

I've read alot of reviews on his tri y header, I guess its worth a shot.

 

Yeah a replica header will be much better than the current one.

I would not worry about a staging brake right now, just learn to use your ebrake to stage and preload the car.

I think you can wring at least a 1.8 60 foot out of the car with a proper launch on those tires, and that should equate to a .4 drop at the big end.

Also I agree with Ek up there, and think if you drop tires pressure too low it will hurt your trap speed, and possibly E.T. as well. I ran my 23" slicks at 11-13 psi or so,

 

1.8 60's and about a .4 off the ET!!! I'd be so happy!

Very well gentlemen, I will purchase the tri y rep before making a pass...

I've been sitting in my car and practicing preloading on my driveway. LOL. I'm sure my neighbors think i'm crazy but oh well. We shall see how I do soon.

Thank You All!

 

Great post.

There IS a break-even point on tire PSI and it can adversely effect ET and MPH. You want the maximum tire pressure with the lowest 60ft . . . I know from our own projects that even 1-2psi can be 1-2mph on the top end depending on tire size and HP with negligible gains in 60ft (very similar to ekcivic's observation).

Any wasted motion, be it in the suspension or tire wrap, is motion that could have been spent propelling you forward.

At any rate, car is super clean . . . looks great

 

hello h-game i jest did my h to f for now i need to know what down pipe i need for my 4dr eg8 4dr i have about a size of a wrench gap from the test pipe to down pipe it wont lwitch down pipe i need i need to know asap

 

Check it out... Just got it. Can't wait to put it on.

Most likely tomorrow after work.

Thanks to Jeff @ 1320 performance.

 

Thank you for the compliment Pro-SeriesFab.

As far as psi, I think it'll be a good idea to start at 15 then go up or down depending on the feel.