Hey everybody,
Heres my deal. I have a 92 Eg civic cx I swapped in a 98 JDM Type R engine and trans. This motor is from HMO and I am trying to start it up for the first time.
I put in a new fuel pump and relay is good.
I am using a p28 obd1 ecu with a tucked harness go to the obd2 motor.
Fuel pump is priming and has pressure to the injectors which are RC 310 cc.
Before I put the motor in while still on the crate, I changed the oil pump now this is a JDM motor but I did use a USDM oil pump, same fit but has a crank sensor, it's my understanding that because I am using a p28 obd1 ECU that it will not look for the crank positioning sensor on the USDM oil pump..?
The starter works but you can hear it whistle and wind down kinda loud when turning the key to the off position after trying to start it. (could that be a bad starter?)
I assuming the ECU is fine due to it turning over and the fuel pump priming. Also when I tried to start it, it has a wee little back fire I can hear coming out of the muffler.
I really, as everybody on here need to figure this out, I live in Minnesota and it's starting to SNOWWW!!! NOOO, anyway I need to move the car, it's a summer car to storage and like always new swaps serve new problems;(
Thank every body's input/advice in advance!
David

 

Is there 91 octane in the tank? Lol.

I was assuming maybe 87 because it is a single cam chassis.

But probably would start with 87 idk?

 

yes actually it is 87 oct, thats however before I bought the swap. Now the gas is in the red mark on gauge cluster, maybe it needs more gas??? but there is gas at the fuel rail so it should start.? I feel there is some other issues that may be more helpful, like I said I took the dizzy off twice but didn't knowingly turn the dizzy, it may have moved, a friend suggested turn take the dizzy off and rotate it 180 degrees, and re install because it could be in the wrong position? I would need to know what other problems this could be. Considering it all seems rightly hooked up to me, dont know tho cuz it just wont start up..

 

I would def dump some gas in there. This motor is dry, and so are your lines from unhooking previous engine.

If that doesnt work... go to your 3 basics. Easily checked.

Gas... Is there enough in the tank? Is fuel pump priming? Is it making it through the fuel filter? Is it getting into the rail? Check these points along the way to make sure its getting delivered. Octane from 87-93 doesnt matter for it to run.

Next is spark.... are you getting spark at all spark plug wires? Are the spark plugs themselves good? If not at the wires, remove cover of dizzy and inspect for correct voltage points. Back trace from there..

Last is air. This you dont have to worry about. Its got plenty of air in the chambers to crank over and start running.....



This belongs in the hybrid forum just an FYI. Your chassis is diff from engine and harness and everything in between.

We can help... just as i did above.... But you will get better, more detailed, faster answers in the hybrid thread. Also research. This stuff has all been cover 36 unbillionth times....

Take a look at this tech thread on converting JDM motor to USDM specs...

http://forums.itrexpo.com/zerothread?id=16035

Good Luck

 

^Thank you much, and the fuel pump is priming. What about the dizzy how I mentioned my friend told me to rotate the dizzy. Think that could be a problem? Yes i'll add gas as u mentioned it is dry..

 

Looks like you have the right train of thought when troubleshooting your swap. You started with fuel and you ruled that out as a possibility. Checking spark is the next logical thing to do which it seems you are currently tackling. If you have a spare igniter try switching that out. The igniters in the distributors are wear items that go bad after a while.

Also, double check the right wire connector is going to your MAP sensor. There is another connector that looks like it and if you accidentally plug that to your MAP, it fries it and your car won't start. As mentioned by DC2 Productions above, head over to the hybrid section for questions related to your swap. Good luck.

 

Right on! The USDM oil pump with the CFS wouldn't affect the starting of the car cuz im using a p28 obd1 ECU, is that correct?

 

Heres what im trying to say to you...

NONE of us are running what you are... So its hard to say.


You have an OBD1 car. We are ALL OBD2...

Your running a modified P28. Most of us are stock ITR P73 ECU or have been tuned with some type of Hondata or otherwise by a tuner....

There are too many variables to just jump into the ITR forum and get the answers you need just because your motor is a JDM R motor.

YOU NEED TO GO TO THE HYBRID SECTION TO GET THE ANSWERS YOU ARE LOOKING FOR....

Repost your original thread there and you will get the help you need.

(Your asking a bunch of men how to bake apple pie when there is a apple pie shop right next door.... Some of us may have some input that can help... but why not go to where they make the apple pie for advice??.... ITS RIGHT NEXT DOOR)......

 

I understand and I did write on there. I hear where your coming from tho, just thought since I have an obd2 motor, and a p28 obd1 that this setup is used alot and a type r forum might have some experienced trouble shooting and you seem very knowledgeable! My main concern was that the usdm oil pump with the CFS wouldn't affect the starting of motor with my obd1 p28, I didn't think it would but need a for-sure answer, feel me?

 

The motor will start with CKF sensor unhooked or not being seen.

You will get a CEL if it is malfunctioning... I dont belive VTEC will engage either.

If your running a chipped P28, any tuner can stop the ECU from looking for that.

 

K, thank you!

 

No...the CKF doesn't affect VTEC. And OBD1 ECU's don't look for CKF's. A stock P28 doesn't look for a CKF. Neither will a chipped one.

OP said his starter was winding up freely and then slowly whirring down after letting go of the key. That's abnormal.

So...maybe the starter solenoid is not working.

Try roll starting the car. If it starts, you likely have a bad starter.

Edit: you said it sounds like a small backfire from the exhaust. So...the starter is cranking the motor.

You may have plug wires or injecfor connectors incorrectly firing. If you mixed up the spark plug wires...or mixed up the injector connectors, maybe.

Did you take the distributor off at some point? Did you put it on 180 degrees out of phase? Check that the distributor driver isn't broken or flipped 180 degrees.

Have you tried another distributior? Checked for spark?

You sure you plugged everything in properly? Didn't mix up the MAP/TPS or CTS/VTEC?

Is your ECU ground at the thermostat in good condition?

 

So injectors are (distributor side) 4-3-2-1 (timing belt side). yellow =4, blue=3, red=2, brown=1. I did take the distributor of twice a while back, i knowingly did not move it, but it may have moved, i'll 180 degree turn it after work. Also the injector wires are right it's the same as I listed above. I haven't checked spark yet (working) I will do that also tonight. I agree the starter doesn't sound right but I tried cranking it a bunch from time to time because at first the fuel pump wasn't priming (new walbro255 lph). It was a fuse and it was primimg but my gas tank is in the red on E. The car has been sitting for a year while I was tucking, doing timing belt water pump, engine bay paint, ect ect. but when i did the fuel pump and put the new one in there was a lil bit of gas and I rechecked it a couple weeks later to make sure all connections were right the filter on the bottom of the fuel pump was wet with gas. I dont know if do to a "dry" engine and priming the lines that were opened I need more gas??? Could be. Im just fuckn frustrated, I've put mucho money in this car, finally received my chasebays engine harness then no start? I may have the map and tps switched around, but it should still start, just run shitty. IDK???

 

BTW, whats up B-Serious!!! Helped me out last time, GOOD person. I will check this thread often tonight to check in and see whats all being said. I have this chick thats a toyota mechanic coming over tonight to help me. She did my timing belt and I have type r manuel and sppon manuel and she showed my how the arrow on the oil pump lined up with the crank pulley and the up marks on the cam gears were in the up position, so all was alinged right when we put the new timing belt on ( 3 rotations with crank pulley which equals one rotation for cam gears and all marks were lined up) So I m pretty confident it's not a timing issue. Plus HMO should of given me a stand up motor (whys the starter fuckn up?) Thud on my own thread!!!

 

2 crank rotations is one cam rotation.

 

Here's the update, HMO or whoever put the spark plug wires in the wrong firing sequence on the dizzy, so i changed them and hell yea start up!!!!!!!! However the idle is high;/ so i messed with the dizzy position but could only get it to 1700 rpm's. thats way to high. the map and tps plugs are right, cuz when i switched them around it ran a lot shitty ER and was going to die. I unhooked the neg batt cable to reset the ecu for like 10 min, but that only got it to like 1500 rpm idle. So I am out of opyions on what to do??? B-serios, NE thoughts?

 

Vac leak some where..

 

Yeah but new throttle body & gasket, new intake manifold gasket? One thing is Im running a chipped and slightly tuned (some lil mods to ecu) p28, and Im using RC 310cc injectors on a fulley stock 98 JDM R, I was told I should probly have it tuned because the injectors are a lil big for a stock motor.?? Sound right?

 

The injectors are big for a factory motor. But that doesn't matter. What Matters is that what injectors the ECU is tuned for. The ECU controls the injector duty cycle.

I think you have too much going on to form a proper diagnosis. Your idle issue could be a million things. Its hard to determine because of all the variables.

A chipped ECU typically doesn't take an active tune. I would buy an ECU capable of being tuned. Hondata, or similar.

Try swapping back to factory injectors. See if it idles fine. Why do you have 310cc injectors?

Also....it will idle high until the coolant temp rises. That is normal. It should settle into its ~700 RPM idle after that. Are you at 1700RPM with the coolant cold? Any CEL's?

Any vacuum lines unplugged?

Does the car have coolant? Is the coolant bled out fully?

This topic would get more accurate answers if it were posted in an engine swap forum. This forum isn't quite so much about tech. And any tech that does happen here will be related to the special differences of the ITR. You don't have a Type R. You have a OBD1 civic. I know you have a B18C-R. But the engine is just a bunch of pieces of metal. Your question does not relate to the engine. Your engine works fine. It relates to electronics and mating parts related to a swap.

 

New throttle body? Might need to adjust the throttle screw, or maybe the IACV needs a cleaning or replaced. Or vacuum leak somewhere.

 

I cleaned the iavc before i installed the motor.
The throttle body is a skunk2 pro series TB, and the throttle screw when I turned it counter clock wise the idle went up. So when i turned it clock wise it went down and I can't turn it anymore. but still way to high rpms.
I wanted the 270cc injectors but JHP b.s'd me and said they only had 310cc injectors andit shouldn't hurt, but that I needed my chipped/tunable p28 ecu to be tuned for it to run like it should.
I moved the dizzy when car was running a lil back and a lil forward to see if I could get the rpm's to go down at idle, and they did but only to 1500 rpm, but it fluctuates it seems to go down to 1000 rpm's then back up, this happens a couple times then it has stayed at 1300-1500 rpm's at idle???
I deleted the heat and a/c so the normal route of the coolant hoses just goes directly to the t-stat-m houseing.
The intake manifold has a brand new gasket as does TB, the TB cable isn't pulling the TB open, so I think it's fine and doesn't need to be adjusted.?
how can I check for leaks? And would this cause it to idle that high, say there is a leak? Where and how do I look for that?
I'm off work today then go back tomorrow, so this is a good day to get feed back and put it to use....
Thanks my Honda Friends!

 

I'll get a full pic of the set up when i go to the parents house where the car is with everything installed. maybe I can do video, so you can hear and see what I am hearing and seeing.

 

anI upload video? I should hope, right would make sense on a car fourm?? Hey Larry whats that noise, a, BOB thats your car idleing, OH, ok....

 

I was told..." vacuum leak, bad map sensor, or TPS isnt calibrated correctly".
How do I check for a bad map sensor and how do i calibrate the TPS? Also where do I look for them leaks?

 

Just remembered somthing...So I have a brake booster delete single port wilwood MC. So no vaccume line going from back of intake manifold to the brake booster. I thought that little port nipple on the back of the intake manifold was the vapor line for fuel. I think I'm wrong, but until i get picked up and brought to where the car is, I cannot remember what I did with that intake Manifold little nipple on the back of the IM (drivers side)????? I am going to take a bunch of pic's and upload them. like how the hoses are hooked up and if I got the vaccume hoses right. But to calibrate TPS and check MAP sensor, would be nice if someone LMK how to do these things to rule them out...