My car turns on, gear shift moves into all gears, no grinding, but the clutch never engages... the car doesn't move.
I changed the master clutch cylinder, tried to bleed clutch... the clutch is much stiffer, but there might still be some air somewhere? I'll try to bleed clutch more in the morning, just wondering, if the car still doesn't move what the problem would be?
Also wondering if it's ok to use automatic transmission fluid in a manual transmission? I figured it would be better to have some fluid than none, the car was two cups low because the last time I drove, the idle was sporadically high. Then after an errand the car wouldn't go forward at all. I pushed on the gas thinking that it just needed more gas... the idle revved really high and the car started smoking...
Now the idle sounds fine, and all I did was wiggle the idle wires.
Did I ruin the transmission???

 

bad clutch.

 

Is the throw out bearing the same as the clutch release bearing - Is that the part that is bad???

 

And, how do I know it's that and not something with the shift lever and linkage that might have rattled loose???

 

Do you feel the clunk of each gear change?

 

The shift lever easily goes into each place it's supposed to, however, the clutch never engages. Some people say it's the clutch, others say it's the throw out bearing, others say it's the whole transmission. ?
The transmission needs to be taken out to work on any of them.... so I have things halfway apart.
I don't understand why the Haynes manual says to remove the elbow-shaped exhaust pipe section under the transaxle. To me it seems that the pipe is further to the left/drivers side, under the engine. ?

 

Don't listen to what people on FB groups tell you. Most don't know what they're talking about.


Were you ever experiencing symptoms of the clutch slipping while in gear, while driving?

 

If it worked BEFORE you put the new clutch cylinder in, then stopped working after I am going to bet you did not bleed it well enough.

 

People still think bleeding a clutch has something to do with engagement? In the year of our lord 2015?

Check your pedal freeplay. My guess is that you have the master cylinder pre-loaded. The freeplay should be like 0 to 1/4". Go with 1/4". I am very confident that is your issue...and it takes 5 mins to fix.

And no...ATF does not work in these transmissions. Drain that out. Pour oil or honda MTF in.

 

no. It didn't work b4 I installed the clutch master cylinder either.
I'm not sure what 'clutch slipping' is, but I'm going to say no.
Car was fine. Then I heard shhhhhh when pressing brakes, so I changed the brake booster. Then it would idle too high sometimes and when stopped it would sound better if I kept the clutch pushed halfway down (idle was too high when clutch was pressed all the way down).
Then I turned the car on, it wouldn't move, so I pressed the gas pedal more, the idle went way high, car smoked, barely creeped along, then wouldn't move at all.
I re-installed the booster, as I hadn't adjusted the push rod correctly, after that the idle seems fine, (I guess just by moving the wires it fixed itself)
However the clutch still didn't engage - car didn't move forward at all.
So I changed the clutch master cylinder. didn't help.

I guess I killed something when it idled so high and was smoking, I just don't know what. Transmission fluid ended up 2 cups low because of the smoke.

One person said that if the clutch was bad, I wouldn't even be able to shift it.

Is that true?????????

 

I don't understand what pedal freeplay is?
oil? do you mean like 5w-30? is that better than MTF that's not made by Honda?

 

5W30 is just another option of acceptable fluid for your transmission.

Yes, clutch pedal free play. Test it.

Attachment 516425

 

Adjusting clutch freeplay is similar to adjusting the rod on the brake master cylinder.

You adjust the clutch master cylinder pushrod where it connects to the pedal.

You can use non synthetic 10W40 oil OR honda MTF in the trans. Drain the ATF out.

 

No that is not true. You can shift through the gears without using a clutch. Now if you put it in first gear, started the car, and the car died, then your clutch is working. If you do that, and it doesn't die, then your clutch is not working.

You revved the car and then you saw smoke while it was barely moving? That leads me to believe you burned up the clutch.

How do you know it was two cups low? Did you fill it to spec before doing this 'test' and having the smoke happen?

 

I filled it to specs after it was towed back home.
Perhaps it was low before the smoke incident also? I hadn't checked it.

Some smoke when it was barely moving and then I had to go up a small incline and it decided not to move and there was even more smoke.

Now I can shift into any gear, take foot off the pedal and car doesn't die, or move and engine idle doesn't change until I step on the gas.

 

bad clutch.

 

I'm thinking it would be worth buying a real Honda clutch considering the work involved... unless one from autozine or oreileys is just as good. What do you think?

where is a good place online to buy one? Do I need a clutch or a clutch kit????

The car & transmission is a 95, the engine is a 96. Does it matter which clutch I get, or are they the same for both years???

 

exedy clutch kit

 

D series clutch is the same regardless of the year..

Just get an Exedy Clutch kit...rockauto has good prices on them. You'll also need a flywheel if you can't get yours resurfaced.

 

Ehhhh....not quite. 92-00 D series are the same. Pre-92 aren't. I'm not sure about the D17's in 01-05, but Exedy lists a different part number, and the pictures in the parts diagram are different, so I'm guessing 01-05 D series clutches are also different.

This. Exedy is cheap and reliable. Don't worry about the "Stage X" bullshit, just get the Exedy OEM replacement. The Exedy P# is 08022. Any competent machine shop should be able to resurface your flywheel. Make sure you follow proper install and break in procedures, or you'll be replacing it again in under a year.

 

should be added- i have had nothing but good luck with parts store oe replacements on daily driven/non abused cars.

 

Thanks for all the help / info : )

 

I forget we are talking to people who don't 'understand' us.

Yeah that's what i mean...the year of the motor/transmission, the clutch is the same.

 

It's all good. Clarity is our best friend around here.

 

The disc and pressure plate are interchangeable from '90 - '05 for sure. I'm pretty sure the '06 - '15 R18 clutch is the same as well. I know for the fact the splines are the same because I have tried an older D-series clutch disc on an R18 input shaft. Throwout bearings and pilot bearings do differ as do flywheels in some cases.