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This has been covered quite well I think but just to sum it up, the difference is half a tooth which is roughly 4.75deg (I think mathematically it's 4.73deg but you can do the math if you feel like it). So to answer your question, it depends on how you install the cam gear, which gear it is, and if it's adjustable. You'd also need to confirm if your set up needs to compensate for this difference and in your case I believe you do.
The reason i said i believe is My car is kinda Odd in term of Spec and many other Feature .
1. The ECU is not the standard one that Run since the D15 block is NOT fuel injection but a carburetor Block .
2. the D16y8 Vtec is Installed ( if anyone can confirm from the Photo )
3. ECO - P6x-T51
4. Cluster Planel ( DO not have CEL lighting istalled - i added the Bulb 5 days ago )
5. Running Honda City Timing Belt . Fit in perfectly .( assuming is perfect fit )
6. The Piston Arm have the number " 3 " which work with the Crankshaft i have now .
7. When i replace the crankshaft i got the wrong one and the other Crankshaft work with Piston arm that have the Number " 6 " on it .
8. Installed O2 sensor 2 days ago . ( NO Cek Engine light before or after )
9. All running well. and i see the Car MPG improve a little to about 24MPG now insteald of 15 Mpg , but need more testing to confirm if it 24 MPG half city half highway
10. When i rev my RPM at 2500rpm at 5th gear i go about 80km-85km/ hour . Is it nomal ?
11. 15" rim tire - 195/55/15
12. Car seem to sound more lean . i can feel is more Dry
13. Air fuel Screw - Turning it in or Out does not affect the engine run ? as if it blocked or not working at all . ( i have a IACV under it )
Mine is a Vtec D16y8 .
Thanks Tomcat39 always helpful .
Th MPG seem like it improved But today when i ride up some uphill i found that the car loss so much power that i got to shift to gear 2 to go up hill and after a while i even smell some burning smell .
i wonder why .
but on normal Road i am hitting 100km easily when when i step on it . and is still running ok just feel more dry and i also notice less Bass sound from the Exhust .
Your head is the vtec Y8, you say the BLOCK is a non-vtec D15... It wouldn't really be a minime if it was the vtec D15 block as far as I know. The definition I understood of minime is vtec head on non vtec blocks.
The difference in the vtec and non vtec d15 blocks is the pistons and rods and I think the journal sizes.
Originally Posted by osix
But today when i ride up some uphill i found that the car loss so much power that i got to shift to gear 2 to go up hill and after a while i even smell some burning smell .
Wrong ECU for the car, you need a chipped and tuned ECU for the minime setup or the P08 D15B vtec ECU.
The Block is D15 non vtec
the Top is with the D16y8 Camshaft . i guess.
The P6X-t51 seem to be holding .
After i put in the O2 it seem to be running really Lean . and when i go Uphill i can almost feel the lack of power and have to go gear2 when i go 30degree slope .
I been checking if a P6x-T51 ( auto Ecu will run fine if i do not replace it with a P6x-T01 ( MT )
Is there Any photo or Code on teh Cam gear B8 / B7 / Z6 Which you refer to as possible work on the Y8 Camshaft .
Don't worry about it at all, I had a D15b bottom end with a z6 head aswell as a y7 block with this z6 head.
I haven't ever changed the cam gear on it through different setups now.
The car runs perfectly fine.
If your car is running fine then I wouldn't worry about messing with the cam gear or the timing belt.
The difference is that one belt has more teeth than another belt which offsets the difference in the gear.
I've used Y8 timing belts all along without issue.
Don't worry about it at all, I had a D15b bottom end with a z6 head aswell as a y7 block with this z6 head.
I haven't ever changed the cam gear on it through different setups now.
This is not the same as the Y8 (OBD2) head on the D15 block. The cam key is keyed differently on the Y8 over the B7/B8/Z6 and possibly the Z1.
Most of the write ups say it has to do with the head/deck height changes but after putting the Z6/B7 AEM adjustable cam gear to a Y8 cam gear, it can be easily seen as the key way in the cam is cut at a different angle between the 5th generation and 6th generation cars.
Putting the Z6 (5th generation) head on another 5th generation block is the most cut and paste method.
However, if there is a half a tooth variance because of changing the deck height aka the distance between crank and cam changes, then maybe that cancels out the half tooth and why the write up says to use the B7 cam gear.
I didn't ever look into it as I have an adjustable cam gear and plan on using it and adjusting to be displaying TDC. I haven't done it yet but this weekend I can mock it up and report back.
This is not the same as the Y8 (OBD2) head on the D15 block. The cam key is keyed differently on the Y8 over the B7/B8/Z6 and possibly the Z1.
Most of the write ups say it has to do with the head/deck height changes but after putting the Z6/B7 AEM adjustable cam gear to a Y8 cam gear, it can be easily seen as the key way in the cam is cut at a different angle between the 5th generation and 6th generation cars.
Putting the Z6 (5th generation) head on another 5th generation block is the most cut and paste method.
However, if there is a half a tooth variance because of changing the deck height aka the distance between crank and cam changes, then maybe that cancels out the half tooth and why the write up says to use the B7 cam gear.
I didn't ever look into it as I have an adjustable cam gear and plan on using it and adjusting to be displaying TDC. I haven't done it yet but this weekend I can mock it up and report back.
I never mentioned having a Y8 head on the D15 block.
I have a z6 head on a Y8 block or a Y7 block or a d15b block.
I never mentioned having a Y8 head on the D15 block.
I have a z6 head on a Y8 block or a Y7 block or a d15b block.
I've had all 3.
True but you were telling the poster who does have the Y8 head on a d15 block to not worry about the cam gear issue and provided examples of having the Z6 head on d15 block etc. Doesn't quite fit the situation of the OP.
Originally Posted by Jimster480
Originally Posted by osix
can we get any clue if it already adjusted ?
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Don't worry about it at all, I had a D15b bottom end with a z6 head aswell as a y7 block with this z6 head.
True but you were telling the poster who does have the Y8 head on a d15 block to not worry about the cam gear issue and provided examples of having the Z6 head on d15 block etc. Doesn't quite fit the situation of the OP.
I thought he wasnt sure what actual head he has?
The z6 head and the y8 block are supposed to have the same issue?
The photo is the current cam gear can anyone verify if I got the right one of not b7 or z6 and b8 . is there any photo or how I can check .if I'm lucky the last owner did it already . if not is still the same cam that came with the d16y8 top
The photo is the current cam gear can anyone verify if I got the right one of not b7 or z6 and b8 . is there any photo or how I can check .if I'm lucky the last owner did it already . if not is still the same cam that came with the d16y8 top
That is not a b7 gear. it looks like the y8 gear I have in the closet.
The z6 head and the y8 block are supposed to have the same issue?
No clue, I have never researched any on the Z6 head on a Y7/Y8 block. From what I initially had been reading on the opposite build (y8 head/B7/8/2 block) they attributed the 4.75 degrees to the change in the distance between the cam shaft and crank shaft. I would think if that is the cause, then it should have the same but polar opposite effect on the reverse build (Z6 head/Y7/8 block). However after I put my Z6 AEM gear up against the Y8 gear and aligned the keys, I noted that the AEM was 4.75 degrees advanced.
Add that to where different write ups say use different gears to make it work or an adjustable, I'm not confident on any of it other than using an adjustable gear is probably the easiest solution to get it dead on.
Is hard to find a AEM cam gear here and I would have a higher chance of getting the b7 or b8 or z6 what car or what engine use the b7/8/z. The technical term confuse me lol
Do I need to change the Honda city timing
belt alslo .
No clue, I have never researched any on the Z6 head on a Y7/Y8 block. From what I initially had been reading on the opposite build (y8 head/B7/8/2 block) they attributed the 4.75 degrees to the change in the distance between the cam shaft and crank shaft. I would think if that is the cause, then it should have the same but polar opposite effect on the reverse build (Z6 head/Y7/8 block). However after I put my Z6 AEM gear up against the Y8 gear and aligned the keys, I noted that the AEM was 4.75 degrees advanced.
Add that to where different write ups say use different gears to make it work or an adjustable, I'm not confident on any of it other than using an adjustable gear is probably the easiest solution to get it dead on.
My car ran great for years, its actually on 23PSI of boost and makes ~400HP with this setup lol
MINI ME - B7 Cam gear ( PM8B ) How to get TDC
