Hey HT,

So Im in the process of mapping out my all motor build for my GSR. It is currently my daily driver and will stay as such unless I buy another EG hatch. Anyway, I want to make a little over 200hp all motor. I have done a lot of searching and I have an idea of how I want to make it, I just wanted to see if you guys have an expert tips and suggestions to help me achieve my goal. Parts I plan to use:

AEM Short ram air intake
Skunk 2 Aplha V2 headers
Skunk 2 Intake Mani
Skunk 2 Stage 1 VTEC tuner camshafts with S2 or Golden Eagle cam gears (hoping to lower my VTEC engagement to 5000, 5800 is too high for my preference)
Upgraded valvetrain (S2 or Supertech)
Supertech 12.5:1 pistons w/ Eagle connecting rods
2.5 inch mandrel bent exhaust with high flow cat exiting out of a vibrant muffler
Exedy Stage 2 clutch w/ ACT prolite flywheel
Synchrotech 1-5 synchos
DC2R 4.7 final drive (possibly)

I plan to wrap it all up by getting my p28 ecu chipped and tuned (currently still running the p72). Anything I should add or eliminate? And for axles, should I use Hasport Stage 2 or will the OEM Bseries axles hold up fine with this power? Again, its a daily driver not a fullout race car, just want some power to have fun with for the roll races. Thanks for the input

 

If you're going to run compression that high, run cams that can put it to use. Jun 3's IMO will be a killer cam in this motor. Tuner 2's would work well also. Buddy club 3's would make a nice power band as well.

lower VTEC engagement does not mean you're going to be faster or make more power. If you have the cam setup properly, low cam will compliment high cam and there will be a "seamless" transition.

Stock axles are fine on this build. Ive run stock axles on boosted setups and slicks making far more power w/o issues.

 

Synchro's, final drives, worrying about Vtec engagement should be the least of your worries, I mean I guess you could argue with your tuner to put it where you want but it will be placed accordingly to make most efficient power why would you do anything else really?

If this is your DD and using pump I would go no higher then 12.0:1 static thats just me I'm more of a newb then most so they can chime in or not.
I agree with SLEEPER if your going that high on cr you might want a better cam to utilize the cr.

Or bring your cr down a little and cam accordingly, you'll still hit your goal :thumbsup:

Im not a GSR // Bseries guy in any way but I also dont see alot of S2 mani's on the ones I do see. Money wasted if you ask me use it elsewhere. a stock ported IM probably net you the goal your looking for.

Thats about all I got for now.

 

Thanks for the input I'll look into those cams. I think for economical matters I'll go with the Tuner 2s, JUN is too baller for me right now lol The lower VTEC is just my preference, I'm not feeling the 5800 engagement point, maybe its because I'm all stock. But good news on the axles, I'll just order some OEM axles from JHPUSA.

 

Valued input. The synchros, FD, and vtec engagement will come last after I've put the motor together. But I've read around that some people run 12.5:1 on 93 octane pretty reliably (which is what I have access to, good ole NJ). But that was a point I considered, if I can meet my goal on 12.0:1 and 93 octane then I all for it. I've seen a couple built GSRs running the S2 Mani as the Edelbrock Victor X seems to be phasing out slowly. Im just asking these questions so i can avoid wasting money on parts that counter my goal. But if porting my IM is cheaper and yields the same results then I'll do that.

 

A 2L with the correct camshaft setup can utilize victor X manifold. The ultra street manifold can work too. Even the performer X is excellent for a 1.8L.

 

Two cheap camshafts would be the blox type c or the crower 63403-2 or even the 63402-2

 

Wouldn't the ultra street be a bit overkill for my build? I don't plan to do much to the motor so I was settling for more of a street manifold.

 

The ultra street or Performer X would be my first 2 choices if I were to build a 1.8L

Victor X manifolds don't belong on anything sub 2L IMO, and even then they need to be on a HEALTHY 2L to be put to use correctly.

You can easily reach your "200whp goal" with less than 12.5:1 compression. Keeping it sub 12:1 on pump gas will allow your tuner to add some more timing and really try to extract as much as he can without getting detonation. Heck, guys do it all the time w/ stock type r motors and some nice bolt-ons and cams. There is ALOT more to making power than compression

 

Circa 2010 this was my Daily Driver 200whp Recipie tuned w/ a vafc and on a stock OBD2a computer

GSR Longblock Block 81.5mm Pr3's
Ported GSR IM
Overbore TB
CTR Cams
Comptech Intake
98 ITR Header
OEM CAT
Yonaka Exhaust

 

Wow nice gains, appreciate that you threw in the dyno graph. Was this on stock compression and valvetrain? I was always under the impression that the butterfly valves hindered top end power.

 

Well I'll go with the 12.0:1 CR then if thats the case and save myself a few dollars haha.

 

I had a very similar build to this as well.

82mm GSR block
GSR crank and rods
PR3 pistons (wanted to make it like a JDM R motor @ 11.3:1ish)
B16 head w/ P30 intake and ITR TB
ITR cams
RMF knockoff header
Short ram w/ v-stack
WS2 catback
92 octane
Tuned on a stingy dyno dynamics w/ the ws2 on it (most people add 10% to this dyno to compare to local dynojets)
Open header w/ no tuning it picked up 7 whp and was lean.

 

Any power difference with a v-stack vs cone filter? I wanna run a v-stack but I'm paranoid of sucking water into my engine even with he filter behind the stack, which is why I opted for a short ram over the cold air.

 

Nice dyno's!!!! Man i like a tuned torque curve!!!!!

 

Blox and K&N both sell 6" filters that fit OVER the velocity stack.

I did not do a comparison w/ or w/o the Vstack

 

The less velocity you have the less cam the motor is going to want. The more velocity you have the more cam the motor is able to use.

 

Your more than welcome. I used Pr3/b16 pistons. For the head i went with ITR inner valve springs.

 

Yes and no. You can get away with a smaller cam if velocity remains high and it isn't choking. The velocity is helping fill the cylinders faster. A bigger cam can increase velocity of a bigger port meaning more CFM's to fill the cylinder coupled by more fuel and you get more power. Unfortunately I know from experience trying to port an Edelbrock Performer X manifold.

 

I had a very similar setup that made 203 HP 144 TQ




Stock B18C-5 long block
Skunk2 valvetrain with Skunk2 Tuner 1 cams
Skunk2 Alpha V1 header
Skunk2 mega R 2.5'' catback no cat
Skunk2 Pro series intake manifold
Skunk2 70mm T.B
Injen CAI
stock Type R injectors and fuel pump
91 pump gas
hondata s100 ems

 

I have a very similar build making almost an identical power curve/peak in my DC2 now as well. Very nice power curve for the street and daily drivability and MPG is still awesome.
JDM B18C, 01 Type R pistons, cams, valve train, hand ported P72 head, Skunk2 IM, ported DC2R TB, 310cc, Comptech intake, RMF header to 2.5" HF cat to 2.5" back to DC2R axle back, S80 HLSD type R trans with 4.4 FD, Fidanza flywheel and Comp stage 2 clutch.
Tuned on Hondata it made 189/131 but on a Dyno Dynamics, which typically read lower than standard Dyno Jets. This setup would easily be 200whp on a DJet.

 

And I know from experience of using a aebs intake manifold making 175 peak torque with m24xx cams. Also from seeing 48mm itbs used on a 84mm 11:5:1 B20v making 256 and over 200 tq from 224 with a manifold(m24xx cams). 😎

 

Man that is some torque being made there for a 1.8 liter. That's also a nice *** graph considering the parts used. This is nice !!

 

here's my build to get 200hp out of 1.8 liter

gsr bottom bored .5mm to 81.5mm with us pr3 pi
mild ported b16 head with flat face valves with skunk2 tuner 2 cams and rdx injector,68mm omni throttle body.
my first dyno session i made 199hp but with a smashed up header, then later i bought a toda rep header and made 210hp

 

Lovely power band man !