Darton sleeves, eagle h beam rods, srp pistons, stage 3 crane turbo cams, titan adjustable cam gears, type r oil pump, comet head gasket, stage 3 engine dynamics head it was 2900 by its self, dual titanium valve springs, arp head studs, custom oil pick up for Maroso oil pan, venom intake manifold, holly 68 mm throttle body, and 1100 to just do the engine work and have it all put in, also comes with turbo manifold and greedy Kevlar timing belt


OK first off let me tell you my setup.
00 CIVIC EX
HAD AN LSV-T bought a new 0 mile built LS B18B1 MOTOR
ABOVE WAS A TEXT FROM THE GUY I BOUGHT MOTOR FROM. GOT THE ENTIRE SETUP PLUS ID1000s for $1500...
The catch is, it sat in a body shop with no spark plug wires, uncovered with just a VALVE cover so it was a little dusty. Sat for approx 2yrs.

I bought it and swapped it in, replaced IM to a new BLOX, oiled and lubed it all up with high zinc oil plus some Mobile 1 synthetic, turned it over, without any spark or fuel to fully lube. Oil light went off, plugged everytHing in, CORRECTLY DOUBLE AND TRIPLE CHECKED THAT, But it floods the plugs and fouls them out.

Tune: Neptune basemap
Had Siemens 750 injectors
It WAS VTEC, now just an LS
WALBRO 400LPH FOR 93 PUMP GAS
Garrett 60 trim turbo Stage 2



Starter acts like it's not spinning fast enough also but it's literally 4mos old. I think the tune may be messing with it too. Help please

















I'm also setting up a catch can, I KNOW THE RIGHT SIDE IS WRONG IT'S FIXED NOW, does it matter if I run valve cover vents in the back or front? There are baffles on both.

 

What I meant in catch can comment was can I run it in back of VC instead?