95' ACCORD PROBLEMS & SOLUTIONS?
1.) Driver and Driver rear doors buzz when locked?
2.) Passenger Door auto lock not working?
3.) Best solution to fixing body rust around wheel well?
4.) Windows go up slow need master and all door switches or motor or stuck?
5.) Loose e-brake cable stays up, trunk pull requires force, hood pull is loose?
6.) Best solvent or cleaner for cleaning the dash of tough stains & debris?
7.) Replacing pads/ rotors and replace master brake fluid, abs bleed required?
THANKS
2.) Passenger Door auto lock not working?
3.) Best solution to fixing body rust around wheel well?
4.) Windows go up slow need master and all door switches or motor or stuck?
5.) Loose e-brake cable stays up, trunk pull requires force, hood pull is loose?
6.) Best solvent or cleaner for cleaning the dash of tough stains & debris?
7.) Replacing pads/ rotors and replace master brake fluid, abs bleed required?
THANKS
1.) Driver and Driver rear doors buzz when locked?
2.) Passenger Door auto lock not working?
3.) Best solution to fixing body rust around wheel well?
4.) Windows go up slow need master and all door switches or motor or stuck?
5.) Loose e-brake cable stays up, trunk pull requires force, hood pull is loose?
6.) Best solvent or cleaner for cleaning the dash of tough stains & debris?
7.) Replacing pads/ rotors and replace master brake fluid, abs bleed required?
THANKS
2.) Passenger Door auto lock not working?
3.) Best solution to fixing body rust around wheel well?
4.) Windows go up slow need master and all door switches or motor or stuck?
5.) Loose e-brake cable stays up, trunk pull requires force, hood pull is loose?
6.) Best solvent or cleaner for cleaning the dash of tough stains & debris?
7.) Replacing pads/ rotors and replace master brake fluid, abs bleed required?
THANKS
2) FAQ search/review never hurts
window motors and door lock actuators
tighten cables or replace
Armorall spray cleaner not wipes
akebono are OEM brake parts
Door lock cycling buzzing may be from the internal bumper worn out or loose in the actuator(s). There was a write up in the FAQ, need to open the acutator(s) and check.
Check wiring/fuses/actuator.
If rust is surface, sand and paint, if worse, cut and replace.
Sillicone spray the rubber glass tracks, soak the begesus out of them. But also clean and relube the power window motors/tracks with grease.
If the cable is sticking try some 'Kable-ease' or other like product to lubricate the cable, however if the cable was not used normally there may be rust on the exposed end that catches on the sheathing. Clean off rust and lube. But if the internal structure of the sheath has been damaged, it is best to just replace.
If there are coffe stains, use a non corrosive cleaner, SimpleGreen/409 'green' cleaners.
Armorall is pure *****, F that mess. Cept their citrus cleaner seemed pretty good, but any brand has that.
Front rotors are a little more involved than normal, check FAQ on how to replace. If the car has over 100Kmile and you have no records, replace the wheel bearing(Timken from Rock Auto) while you have it apart. Along with the lower balljoint(from Honda). I like Centric(RockAuto) their Posi-Quiet Ceramic pads w/hardware are nice, just installed them on the '97. HNNNNNNNNG for DD work without the cost. That will all cost ~$280.
If you have rear drums, just replace the wheel cylinders when replacing the shoes. Verify the auto adjusters are not worn and properly lubed.
Check wiring/fuses/actuator.
If rust is surface, sand and paint, if worse, cut and replace.
Sillicone spray the rubber glass tracks, soak the begesus out of them. But also clean and relube the power window motors/tracks with grease.
If the cable is sticking try some 'Kable-ease' or other like product to lubricate the cable, however if the cable was not used normally there may be rust on the exposed end that catches on the sheathing. Clean off rust and lube. But if the internal structure of the sheath has been damaged, it is best to just replace.
If there are coffe stains, use a non corrosive cleaner, SimpleGreen/409 'green' cleaners.
Armorall is pure *****, F that mess. Cept their citrus cleaner seemed pretty good, but any brand has that.
Front rotors are a little more involved than normal, check FAQ on how to replace. If the car has over 100Kmile and you have no records, replace the wheel bearing(Timken from Rock Auto) while you have it apart. Along with the lower balljoint(from Honda). I like Centric(RockAuto) their Posi-Quiet Ceramic pads w/hardware are nice, just installed them on the '97. HNNNNNNNNG for DD work without the cost. That will all cost ~$280.
If you have rear drums, just replace the wheel cylinders when replacing the shoes. Verify the auto adjusters are not worn and properly lubed.
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