HELP ME!!! will be the most difficult swap question of the forum in years ???
the title seems exaggerated, but i think it is. because nobody has done this swap in this way.
I have searched the Internet, but can not find information because nobody has done this before. many have told me that it is more difficult but I will not be disappointed, as some have told me that it is possible, but have not told me how







My 1985 Honda CRX came with a D15A3 MPFI engine and electronic OBD-0 -- I sold the engine with all OBD0-engine harness. and buy a cheap D15b with electronic OBD2A an the ECU P2J ..... for now I want to leave it running stock OBD2A because it's the only thing I have (no conversion or anything related to OBD1 for now)
but I need to connect it directly, without conversion or jumper. that means "connecting all OBD2A full harness to the harness inside the dashboard.
here go:
I have this 10 pin (OBD2A) connector from engine which is the C101


in the internal wiring harness, I have identified some wires coming from the fuse box which are the same color as the connector C101 (OBD2A) and also perform the same function,
I connected the following wires (marked in black)
wires marked in red are not connected
1- says fuse 15. but in the 85 honda fuse box, I do not know where I should place
2- says G101 means ground, but not if it goes to the fuse box or not ???
3-oil pressure indicator light
4- says G101. another wire., but the same. It is going to the fuse box or not ???
5- says PGM-FI i know means (Programmed Fuel Injection)
but talking about wires. where should I connect in the car fuse box???
6-charging system
7-gauges
8-ignition system
9-starting system (is a fatter wire that others)
10, ignition system (is a fatter wire that others)
This is the fuse box inside my honda

have the motor mounted with custom mounts because I am welder,
but now I've been researching and learning more every day about the electronic part of the honda
I know I've gotten into a big mess without knowing anything.
but I love my honda, too much, only i want to enjoy and relax on the highway
if there is someone on the other side of the screen, you can spend a little of your time and help me, even a little.. I really appreciate it
THANKS honda world
I have searched the Internet, but can not find information because nobody has done this before. many have told me that it is more difficult but I will not be disappointed, as some have told me that it is possible, but have not told me how







My 1985 Honda CRX came with a D15A3 MPFI engine and electronic OBD-0 -- I sold the engine with all OBD0-engine harness. and buy a cheap D15b with electronic OBD2A an the ECU P2J ..... for now I want to leave it running stock OBD2A because it's the only thing I have (no conversion or anything related to OBD1 for now)
but I need to connect it directly, without conversion or jumper. that means "connecting all OBD2A full harness to the harness inside the dashboard.
here go:
I have this 10 pin (OBD2A) connector from engine which is the C101


in the internal wiring harness, I have identified some wires coming from the fuse box which are the same color as the connector C101 (OBD2A) and also perform the same function,
I connected the following wires (marked in black)
wires marked in red are not connected
1- says fuse 15. but in the 85 honda fuse box, I do not know where I should place
2- says G101 means ground, but not if it goes to the fuse box or not ???
3-oil pressure indicator light
4- says G101. another wire., but the same. It is going to the fuse box or not ???
5- says PGM-FI i know means (Programmed Fuel Injection)
but talking about wires. where should I connect in the car fuse box???
6-charging system
7-gauges
8-ignition system
9-starting system (is a fatter wire that others)
10, ignition system (is a fatter wire that others)
This is the fuse box inside my honda

have the motor mounted with custom mounts because I am welder,
but now I've been researching and learning more every day about the electronic part of the honda
I know I've gotten into a big mess without knowing anything.
but I love my honda, too much, only i want to enjoy and relax on the highway
if there is someone on the other side of the screen, you can spend a little of your time and help me, even a little.. I really appreciate it
THANKS honda world
I had a mechanic weld mounts for my swap once. I was in highschool and owned no tools. That was the worst part of the entire swap. I still have no idea why he did that. I told him it's a direct swap with off the shelf parts. But, hopefully you're better. Don't do more work than you have to. You can source used OEM mounts for next to nothing. The rubber is usually ruined, just replace with polyurethane if on a budget. Better geometry and longer lasting compared to most of what I've seen.
If wiring is not your thing either, there's again, off the shelf parts to accommodate. Rywire Harnesses
Lastly, if you google around, you can easily find wiring diagrams for each engine/chassis in PDF format, and if you are good with wiring, merge them together.
If wiring is not your thing either, there's again, off the shelf parts to accommodate. Rywire Harnesses
Lastly, if you google around, you can easily find wiring diagrams for each engine/chassis in PDF format, and if you are good with wiring, merge them together.
Wires that want to go to a fuse, want 12v power. Depending on the amp draw of the component, you can choose any fused circuit off the fusebox, as long as you are not overdrawing power.
Anything that says G101 ground means sensor ground, which is the ground on the thermostat.
Fuel injectors get powered off the ECU from 1 wire, and grounded to the ecu via 4 separate wires.
Hope that helps you..
Anything that says G101 ground means sensor ground, which is the ground on the thermostat.
Fuel injectors get powered off the ECU from 1 wire, and grounded to the ecu via 4 separate wires.
Hope that helps you..
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i think definitely not will be .... it's the most difficult swap question of the forum in many years....
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