95 accord lx wagon f22b2 to f22a1 parts needed
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Philadelphia, PA, USA
95 accord lx wagon f22b2 to f22a1 parts needed
Hello H-T, I've browsed your site and have understood there are a lot of misunderstood or misleading answer and I would like to make this thread for myself and others understand correctly. I have a 95 Honda Accord LX wagon with a f22b2(original). Block is blown. I've received a f22a1 from another tech here at Honda for free basically. So I'm def using the f22a1 long block so pls don't discourage me from using. I am aware that the driver left engine mount cannot be used from a f22b2 and that I must use a f22a1 left engine mount. Is this correct? I've already made a purchase online for one. Secondly, I'm aware that exhaust ports are different from f22b2 and f22a1 correct? So I will be purchasing a f22a1 aftermarket exhaust header(eBay) and hoping it'll bolt to the cat. Convertor on the rest of the stock f22b2 accord exhaust piping. If not I'll cut both flanges and weld. Last question, what any other parts do I need to make this f22a1 fit into my 95 accord f22b2 wagon? Thank you for your input.
MM Gruppe B
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,025
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From: 94577/Gaillimh
Re: 95 accord lx wagon f22b2 to f22a1 parts needed
It's more of a CB vs CD issue, not block issue.
CB vs CD again.
CB has flex joint before catalyst.
CD has flex joint after resonator.
This is where the difference in header length/build will be different on the down pipe section.
Dunno if you could just bolt the A1 exhaust manifold to the B2 up-pipe.
If the B2 head is not trashed it would be better to just swap the B2 head onto the A1 block. No custom bits, no downtime making Frankenstein-esque components. A simple block swap. And you won't lose any power. A1 is 125HP vs the B2 130HP(its all in the head/cam/intake/exhaust).
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 40
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From: Philadelphia, PA, USA
Re: 95 accord lx wagon f22b2 to f22a1 parts needed
If the short block is trashed, why not just use the B2 head on the A1 block for easy bolt on?
NEW**
Hey Mad Mike, Thanks for responding first of all. I've received the F22A1 as a whole and didnt want to split her if i know that the tech whom had it last kept up with the preventive maintenance and didnt beat on her. If it's a good running engine, I didnt want to put more into the vehicle in parts wise than I have to as I would want to just be able to drop and go with a little more work if needed.
Why not reuse the B2 mount/bracket on the A1?
It's more of a CB vs CD issue, not block issue.
NEW**
I've just read on couple different forums stating using the b2 driver side engine mount on a a1, you would have issues aligning and bolting.
Port spacing is different but the downpipe is different.
CB vs CD again.
CB has flex joint before catalyst.
CD has flex joint after resonator.
This is where the difference in header length/build will be different on the down pipe section.
Dunno if you could just bolt the A1 exhaust manifold to the B2 up-pipe.
NEW**
I've already purchased and have in hand the aftermarket f22a1 exhaust headers so I'll figure what I'll have to do to attach the mid piping.
Just take anything off the B2 and bolt it onto the A1.
If the B2 head is not trashed it would be better to just swap the B2 head onto the A1 block. No custom bits, no downtime making Frankenstein-esque components. A simple block swap. And you won't lose any power. A1 is 125HP vs the B2 130HP(its all in the head/cam/intake/exhaust).
NEW**
Hey Mad Mike, Thanks for responding first of all. I've received the F22A1 as a whole and didnt want to split her if i know that the tech whom had it last kept up with the preventive maintenance and didnt beat on her. If it's a good running engine, I didnt want to put more into the vehicle in parts wise than I have to as I would want to just be able to drop and go with a little more work if needed.
Why not reuse the B2 mount/bracket on the A1?
It's more of a CB vs CD issue, not block issue.
NEW**
I've just read on couple different forums stating using the b2 driver side engine mount on a a1, you would have issues aligning and bolting.
Port spacing is different but the downpipe is different.
CB vs CD again.
CB has flex joint before catalyst.
CD has flex joint after resonator.
This is where the difference in header length/build will be different on the down pipe section.
Dunno if you could just bolt the A1 exhaust manifold to the B2 up-pipe.
NEW**
I've already purchased and have in hand the aftermarket f22a1 exhaust headers so I'll figure what I'll have to do to attach the mid piping.
Just take anything off the B2 and bolt it onto the A1.
If the B2 head is not trashed it would be better to just swap the B2 head onto the A1 block. No custom bits, no downtime making Frankenstein-esque components. A simple block swap. And you won't lose any power. A1 is 125HP vs the B2 130HP(its all in the head/cam/intake/exhaust).
Yea I'm not sure about the B2 head. Have never been able to get around to split the b2 engine and inspect the head. Been wanting to very much thou. But I heard that the A1 has a better air flow than the B2 head?
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 680
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From: Toledo, OH
Re: 95 accord lx wagon f22b2 to f22a1 parts needed
wagon-r did the F22A head swap onto his F22B2. Made it seem like it was a bit of a pain with all the accessories bolted up. I can't seem to find his thread on here, so here's the link to CB7Tuner.
F22A NA build - CB7Tuner Forums
All his threads over there:
CB7Tuner Forums
I posted this in another thread regarding the F22B2:
........ You may even be able to junkyard dive and find an F22A6 ECU and camshaft for a little more grunt. Another option is the F22A1 Prelude's ECU. The F22B2 and F22A1/4 share the same camshaft and springs, and the Prelude's F22A1 ECU has the most aggressive mapping for that camshaft. The intake manifold and exhaust manifold designs are similar enough between the F22B2 and F22A1's(F22A4's had a tubular 4-2-1 exhaust manifold) that the F22A1 Prelude ECU should run it with ease. A cheap 4-2-1 eBay header(find one with the longer primaries) and an F23A1 intake manifold gave NOTICABLE improvements in power past 4500 RPM when I had an F22B2. I have a longer primary header sitting in my garage, but the lower section is basically trash. If you have a welder and want it, I'll sell it to you for shipping costs. The biggest restriction I've found on the Accord's exhaust tract is the catalytic convertor; it's basically 1.25" at the inlet and really chokes flow!
The F22B2 isn't a bad engine by any means, sure the head doesn't flow as well as it's VTEC and F22A brothers, but it still was a great engine. With the proper intake and exhaust mods, you can easily gain enough power to play with stock)(ish) H22/H23 cars in my experience
FYI, the early F22B6 from an Odyssey were basically an F22B2 with an F22A6 camshaft. Being that they're OBD2a, you wouldn't be able to run that ECU since your car is a '94. Decent option for OBD2a LX's who want to run the F22A6 camshaft though.
The F22B2 isn't a bad engine by any means, sure the head doesn't flow as well as it's VTEC and F22A brothers, but it still was a great engine. With the proper intake and exhaust mods, you can easily gain enough power to play with stock)(ish) H22/H23 cars in my experience
FYI, the early F22B6 from an Odyssey were basically an F22B2 with an F22A6 camshaft. Being that they're OBD2a, you wouldn't be able to run that ECU since your car is a '94. Decent option for OBD2a LX's who want to run the F22A6 camshaft though.
I say use the F22A1 block, F22B2 head, go junkyard diving for an F23A1 intake manifold, 60mm Prelude H22 throttle body, "longer tube" aftermarket header(The $60 ebay stuff works fine if you can get the shitty gaskets to seal), F22A6/F22B6 camshaft+F22A6 ECU, 2.25" exhaust. Cheap, easy stuff. If you have a welder, you can EASILY build the exhaust for about $50 using junkyard piping and a muffler.
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