So I bought a P-72 head, and a LS block from some kid in VA for 400 bucks, I plan on picking up a B18C block from another guy for 300 bucks this weekend.

My Roommate and I took apart the head to clean it up and maybe do a port & polish. We ended up finding dual valve springs & retainers, and possibly valves (IDK how to tell if they're aftermarket or not.) I planed on buying supertech everything for the head anyways so this saves me about 500 dollars!

few questions:
Should I put better LMAs in if i just plan on doing stock gsr cams?

The exhaust valves are caked with carbon build up. Should I just try to clean them or buy new ones?

I'm taking this head to the machine shop to get it resurfaced, is there anything else I should ask for?

I plan on using the LS crank for the GSR block with the gsr block girdle, I was reading some old post from 07 about doing this and was wondering if anyone had some recent input on doing this. From what I understand I'll need to put aftermarket rods/ pistons.

I also have a Skunk 2 Ultra Race IM back home that I was going to use for a sleeved gsr turbo build I was doing. Would it be over kill for a NA setup?

Goals are 200-220 whp on pump gas.

 

What is the intended use for this motor? Race car? daily?

If you plan on using it on the street for more than 5k miles a year, I HIGHLY recommend getting some stock steel retainers. Even the best titanium retainers have a very short life span, usually about 15-20k miles. The lesser brands are known to crack and/or break well before that... Just a warning!

 

It's my daily driver. Alright I'll add that to the list of stuff to buy. Thanks f22master!

I have no clue how many miles were on those parts either so I'll just replace them.

 

Send the valves with the head to the machine shop. Just let them clean them. Save yourself some time..

The retainer thing is half myth, half truth. Perhaps because I've had titanium retainers for 15 years on daily driver :-) b-series. I've had no different wear them then on steel retainers.. It's all in the install and what camshaft you're using. Big camshaft always will wear the retainers faster if you don't have the correct spring seat rates on the springs to prevent valve float and binding. For OEM camshaft, the aftermarket titanium retainers are fine.

For using an LS crank in the GS-R block, remove the oil squirters and use aftermarket forged pistons..That way you won't need the squirters like you would OEM or OEM-cast pistons.. Don't bother trying to bend them out of the way, you have to be precise in doing that our you could damage the engine severely.. I've already been through that.

Use a larger injector like those from an RDX, or at least done 440cc from the Rochester/Lucas style or Bosch style. They both work with the stock fuel regulator. But get an aftermarket pump to be safe.

Let me know of other questions.. This isn't my first rodeo with the "GLSR" N.A. build

 

Thanks for the input theshodan, I'll probably just keep the retainers since I'll be using stock gsr cams.

Is a difficult to remove the oil squirters or were you just sayin to make sure to remove them completely instead of me trying to make them work?

 

Both. It's not difficult to remove the oil squirters yourself, and you would simply get a Golden Eagle Oil squirter block kit to plug them..


Oil Squirter block kit

 

Cool, thanks for the link!
I pm'd you btw.

 

Spent some time out in the storage unit with a bucket of gas cleaning up the head with a brush.
I was impressed with the result!

Time to learn to port/ polish?!

 

I'd see how it's performed first.... THEN try it yourself. I wouldn't go all crazy with the equipment yet. You could actually make things worse than stock... Which, compared to many other 4 cylinder heads , even today, is pretty damned good.

 

I'm more against the port and polish and would rather spend my time else where on the build, but I am waiting on my new LMAs, valve guides, & seals to come in. I'll probably just do a very light port and mostly polish it. I mainly want to do the exhaust side because there is still some slight carbon build up I couldn't get out.

 

you could always replicate stock type-r head port
and please resurface your head instead of just sanding it. its cheaper than replacing a leaking HG

 

That's where again, a machine shop will get rid of a LOT of the carbon buildup overall. Don't waste your own time with that stuff.

 

Check out slowsleeper's 228 whp 81.5mm b18c.

 

Getting closer to being done. I picked up a B18C short block minus rods and pistons, and sold my single cam turbo setup for a B16 trans, and a few other needed parts.
I might strip the paint off the block later today, but it's cold out.. lol

I also polished the exhaust valves just to see what would happen. Hopefully they seal properly!

My roommate convinced me into buying a stock GSR IM, gutting it, and porting/ polishing it. I did some research on doing this and couldn't find a whole lot about it so I'm going in blind, any help/ advice is appreciated!

 

People would advise against using solid crank pulleys unless its b16b
And im also almost positive that oem exhaust valves have hardened or coated surface to reduce heatsoak which you sanded off.
I use a wire wheel it doesnt damage the surface

 

Dyno show long time ago that a gutted gsr manifold with no butterflies makes less power than stock. Srsly i see this question almost every month on different forums. Where do people dig out this old info

 

Alright so I need new exhaust valves, and scratch the oem IM idea.
Thanks!

 

I'm waiting for old timers to confirm or deny. lol
Its questionable info but I belive they are coated there was an article somewhere.
and they are much darker color stock when not sanded down

 

If I were you, I'd leave the ports alone. You have to know what you're trying to achieve in certain flow areas(mid lift/high lift characteristics ) in order to see results. A good valve job from a reputable person or shop would be best.

 

I looked up pics of the stock exhaust valves and it does seem like I might of sanded down way to much on them. I'm just going to take the safe route and buy some new ones instead of wasting time on those hoping they seal properly..

I also won't be touching the head, I might have the machine shop do a valve job while it's there for the resurface.

 

I would replace the pulley, leave the head alone, check the valves for straightness ( bought a "good" head half the valves were bent), keeping searching the stock gsr ported manifold thread, someone went all out with porting one and made a in depth thread about it. Also I've read about a few people replacing Supertech with Ferra before they run the car, might wanna check on that before you buy. What Pistons did you pla on running? I built my B20vtec at the base hobby shop would never do it in the barracks haha.

Hope that helps

 

Yeah I'll just buy a stock pully, what's the negatives about the one on it? My roommate was saying I'd have to run a lightened flywheel with it...? The intake valves were in good condition and we're not bent, I just wanted to clean up those exhaust valves but I might of over did it lol.
I'm looking at buying some Ferrara valves right now.

I want to keep the compression under 12:1, I think b16a pistons with the ls rods and crank put me at 11.8:1 so I'll probably just go with those. If you guys have any input on what compression to go with please LMK.

 

stripped the gsr block and test fitted the LS crank. found some ACL race bearings with assembly lube still on them, you guys think they'll be safe to reuse? Golden eagle oil squirters on order.
Block and crank are at the machine shop, block is getting check out, i told the machinist guy to just call me if he was needed to do anything serious to it. Crank is just getting polished.

 

Yep, you're doing ok. Just get that oil squirter block kit

 

how much power difference is there from using ls crank vs gsr with everything else being same?
I always thought the increase in power not very noticeable