Replace or rebuild
I don't usually post, but I have what I think is a reasonable question regarding transmissions in general, as well as my own particular case. If this isn't the right place, I apologize.
I bought a 1995 Civic EX with a GSR swap connected to an SI transmission. I got it BAR'd and now I'm looking to start fixing more things. Being my first project car, this is a learning experience. With what I have learned so far, I honestly probably would have kept looking for something with less issues. Oh well. On to the point.
After driving the car 100 miles or so I started to notice more and more things I didn't like about the transmission, chiefly that the input shaft bearing is failing. Less importantly at highway speeds, as is to be expected with the gearing of B16 transmission, I was not getting great MPGs (the acceleration is great, though, don't get me wrong).
My main goal for this car is to have a reliable, fun daily, so this (especially the bearing) has got to be remedied. My research has pointed me towards the GSR transmission for the best mix of lower highway RPMs while maintaining low ratios first through third for fun acceleration.
Finally, we have come to my question: Should I find a GSR gearset and do a full rebuild using my current bellhousing, or just buy a GSR transmission to begin with? With the former option, I'd know exactly what I am getting, but sourcing the parts might be difficult and it will probably end up being expensice. The latter option will be cheaper initially, but I've learned not to just trust when people say, "Oh yeah, this transmission works perfectly." on their ad, inevitably finding when it is installed that it's **** and I'll have to rebuild it anyway.
What would you recommend? Total rebuild, or risk buying a used transmission (I'm not discounting the possibility that I could get one in good condition)? If you suggest buying a GSR transmission to begin with, where would you recommend purchasing from?
Thanks,
Lonnie
Edit: I could also just sell the B16 and put the money toward buying and rebuilding a used GSR. That may be the best option. Thanks again.
I bought a 1995 Civic EX with a GSR swap connected to an SI transmission. I got it BAR'd and now I'm looking to start fixing more things. Being my first project car, this is a learning experience. With what I have learned so far, I honestly probably would have kept looking for something with less issues. Oh well. On to the point.
After driving the car 100 miles or so I started to notice more and more things I didn't like about the transmission, chiefly that the input shaft bearing is failing. Less importantly at highway speeds, as is to be expected with the gearing of B16 transmission, I was not getting great MPGs (the acceleration is great, though, don't get me wrong).
My main goal for this car is to have a reliable, fun daily, so this (especially the bearing) has got to be remedied. My research has pointed me towards the GSR transmission for the best mix of lower highway RPMs while maintaining low ratios first through third for fun acceleration.
Finally, we have come to my question: Should I find a GSR gearset and do a full rebuild using my current bellhousing, or just buy a GSR transmission to begin with? With the former option, I'd know exactly what I am getting, but sourcing the parts might be difficult and it will probably end up being expensice. The latter option will be cheaper initially, but I've learned not to just trust when people say, "Oh yeah, this transmission works perfectly." on their ad, inevitably finding when it is installed that it's **** and I'll have to rebuild it anyway.
What would you recommend? Total rebuild, or risk buying a used transmission (I'm not discounting the possibility that I could get one in good condition)? If you suggest buying a GSR transmission to begin with, where would you recommend purchasing from?
Thanks,
Lonnie
Edit: I could also just sell the B16 and put the money toward buying and rebuilding a used GSR. That may be the best option. Thanks again.
Remove and teardown the unit you have an evaluate it for a rebuild. It is usually better to deal with the problems the current unit has, rather than buy a used, untested or uninstalled unit and not know the health of it either.
The MPG gains between a B16 and a B18 with a spirited driver are minimal to non-existent. Might you get a 0.5 to 1 MPG increase? Sure, don't bet on it. If your heavily concentrated on fuel economy, the engine you have is not the best choice. A D15Z1 is a better choice. Also consider your rim and tire size.
The vast majority of B16/B18 transmissions I rebuild have input bearing and snap ring bearing failures. This is to be expected with a heavily driven, abused transmission.
There is also no guarantee the transmission you order as a replacement will be a factory, unmolested GS-R. I've seen a lot of "advertised" GS-R and Type-R transmissions made up of spare parts that are completely untested. This happens more often than you might think.
Best advice: Evaluate your unit for repairs. If you determine that the rebuild cost is in excess of what you want to spend, find a used unit that you can put your hands on. Verify it has not been taken apart, or monkey'd with.
The MPG gains between a B16 and a B18 with a spirited driver are minimal to non-existent. Might you get a 0.5 to 1 MPG increase? Sure, don't bet on it. If your heavily concentrated on fuel economy, the engine you have is not the best choice. A D15Z1 is a better choice. Also consider your rim and tire size.
The vast majority of B16/B18 transmissions I rebuild have input bearing and snap ring bearing failures. This is to be expected with a heavily driven, abused transmission.
There is also no guarantee the transmission you order as a replacement will be a factory, unmolested GS-R. I've seen a lot of "advertised" GS-R and Type-R transmissions made up of spare parts that are completely untested. This happens more often than you might think.
Best advice: Evaluate your unit for repairs. If you determine that the rebuild cost is in excess of what you want to spend, find a used unit that you can put your hands on. Verify it has not been taken apart, or monkey'd with.
If a trans rebuild is too much for you, I do suggest synchrotech. You can ship your trans out and they will do the work for you. They are really quite good, the pricing is not cheap though. $400+parts+shipping ($100~).
If you want to buy a new trans, I suggest the for sale section here. You can find a GSR trans that has been rebuilt most likely. I would suggest buying from a well known, trusted, seller though.
If you want to buy a new trans, I suggest the for sale section here. You can find a GSR trans that has been rebuilt most likely. I would suggest buying from a well known, trusted, seller though.
Thanks for the replies guys. I think rebuilding what I have, especially because there aren't any grinds or pop-outs, is the safest route. I'll take a look at the synchros and bearings and buy whatever Synchrotech kit it requires.
I didn't realize that the gearing would make that little of a difference. I was mainly concerned with dropping the RPMs a bit at highway speeds, so if the drop with the GSR tranny is negligible, then there's not much point in swapping.
In all honesty, fuel economy doesn't matter that much to me, the main purpose of this car is to have fun, and I love to drive it. My daily gets around 35mpg but drives like poop, terrible turn radius, weighs 3200lbs, and only came with a 140hp engine from the factory.
Thanks again for the advice, I've been thinking about this for a while.
I didn't realize that the gearing would make that little of a difference. I was mainly concerned with dropping the RPMs a bit at highway speeds, so if the drop with the GSR tranny is negligible, then there's not much point in swapping.
In all honesty, fuel economy doesn't matter that much to me, the main purpose of this car is to have fun, and I love to drive it. My daily gets around 35mpg but drives like poop, terrible turn radius, weighs 3200lbs, and only came with a 140hp engine from the factory.
Thanks again for the advice, I've been thinking about this for a while.
Last edited by listenintoBTBAM; Sep 30, 2015 at 10:51 AM.
Gearing doesnt make a huge difference. I have a mildly built LS and going from a cable ls to a cable gsr (shorter ratio than a b16 by a hair) and my mileage stayed the same. I get about 29-30mpg with an average speed of 75-80mph
hi everyone im sorry as well if this isnt the right place to post i just got started on this site today.
i have just got a 1997 honda prelude si with the h23a1 in it. when i start it up it always seems to make this growling sound followed with the rpms jumping to 3 k with no pressure on my gas pedal. i recently did a valve adjustment on it and it still dose the same thing, im wondering if it is my transmission because the guy i bought it from said when he had it it needed a throw out bearing. if that were the case if i had the clutch pedal pushed down to the floor wouldn't the sound stop and not be constant ? i really need some help any answers would be appreciated
i have just got a 1997 honda prelude si with the h23a1 in it. when i start it up it always seems to make this growling sound followed with the rpms jumping to 3 k with no pressure on my gas pedal. i recently did a valve adjustment on it and it still dose the same thing, im wondering if it is my transmission because the guy i bought it from said when he had it it needed a throw out bearing. if that were the case if i had the clutch pedal pushed down to the floor wouldn't the sound stop and not be constant ? i really need some help any answers would be appreciated
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Rebuild by the pro's approximate cost ~400 labor, ~100 shipping, ~6-800parts(assuming nothing is beyond service limit) ~800-1200 for LSD. So, $1100-2500 for a rebuilt box depending on condition and options. Warranty customer service has anecdotally been very good from all known builders.
Or.
You can buy a brand new USDM ITR trans with LSD and warranty from you local dealer ~$2400+tax if you press the parts guy with online prices. Or buy it from Majestic or Bernardi shipping will cancel out tax anyway. Same OEM warranty.
Or.
You can buy a brand new JDM ITR '98+ with LSD and 4.78FD for $2700+150 shipping from ICB motorsport.
Anything purchased from anywhere else carries a risk of getting a junk or almost junk box.
Or.
You can buy a brand new USDM ITR trans with LSD and warranty from you local dealer ~$2400+tax if you press the parts guy with online prices. Or buy it from Majestic or Bernardi shipping will cancel out tax anyway. Same OEM warranty.
Or.
You can buy a brand new JDM ITR '98+ with LSD and 4.78FD for $2700+150 shipping from ICB motorsport.
Anything purchased from anywhere else carries a risk of getting a junk or almost junk box.
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