"best" FPR for H22?
Search wasn't too helpful.
I'm looking for recommendations on a good FPR and pressure gauge that's an easy hook-up to the H22. I'm not thrilled with the AEM and B&M units. If an aftermarket fuel rail is required, please recommend a good one of those too.
This is for an internally stock very rich P13 OBD I H22A4 that I'd actually like to try leaning out more than the V-AFC will allow.
Thanks.
[Modified by 4doorH22, 6:51 PM 11/5/2002]
I'm looking for recommendations on a good FPR and pressure gauge that's an easy hook-up to the H22. I'm not thrilled with the AEM and B&M units. If an aftermarket fuel rail is required, please recommend a good one of those too.
This is for an internally stock very rich P13 OBD I H22A4 that I'd actually like to try leaning out more than the V-AFC will allow.
Thanks.
[Modified by 4doorH22, 6:51 PM 11/5/2002]
if you dont like those two may i suggest that you remove the stock regulator,
tap the hole with 1/8" npt and put a hose from that to an aeromotive and then
put the stock return from the new fpr
tap the hole with 1/8" npt and put a hose from that to an aeromotive and then
put the stock return from the new fpr
uh, a v-afc will let you reduce it up to 50%, if you did it that much on stock injectors, you would run soooo lean you wouldn't make it down the road w/out burning out stuff!...
a fpr reduce's/gain's make it basically linaer, which if you hook your car up to a wideband o2, you will see that the adjustments are anything but that, some rpm's will need more, some will need less...
if your plan is to stay mild get a v-afc, if your going hardcore get a standalone...
btw-i have brand new in-the-box v-afc that i just bought a week ago, but decided to go hondata, so if you want let me know i'll sell it to you
a fpr reduce's/gain's make it basically linaer, which if you hook your car up to a wideband o2, you will see that the adjustments are anything but that, some rpm's will need more, some will need less...
if your plan is to stay mild get a v-afc, if your going hardcore get a standalone...
btw-i have brand new in-the-box v-afc that i just bought a week ago, but decided to go hondata, so if you want let me know i'll sell it to you
if its between AEM and B&M deffanitly the AEM. i had B&M and they **** out about 6 months down the road. same with 3 of my friends...
He said he didn't want an AEM or B&M, it wasn't a choice between the two.
I don't know why you don't want them, I've never heard of either failing, except at extremely high pressure and you're NA, so that's not likely to happen. Anything else is generic, and would require some type of custom work. I like sgT's suggestion. Requires the least modification and works well. Get the Aeromotive with the -6AN inputs.
I don't know why you don't want them, I've never heard of either failing, except at extremely high pressure and you're NA, so that's not likely to happen. Anything else is generic, and would require some type of custom work. I like sgT's suggestion. Requires the least modification and works well. Get the Aeromotive with the -6AN inputs.
Ah, thanks all. I'll look into SgT's suggestion. I like it clean. I'll do some further research on the B&M/AEM.
How does one hook up units like the B&M? Just rubber fuel line and screw clamps? That looks failure prone, not to mention ghetto.
How does one hook up units like the B&M? Just rubber fuel line and screw clamps? That looks failure prone, not to mention ghetto.
There was a write up on HP.com, too bad it's gone. It does look kinda ghetto, but it does work well. You cut the top of the stock fpr right off and bolt on the b&m piece wich is just like the normal top, but it has a built in screw that allows you to set the preload of the fpr spring. It's fairly simple.
If you want bling bling, go with the Aeromotive
Too bad it's offset by my engine being so dirty.
If you want bling bling, go with the Aeromotive
Too bad it's offset by my engine being so dirty.
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I wouldn't lean it out so much. not really worth the extra 1 or 2 whp you might pull out of it if any.
gotta love those rust colored stock manifolds
That was right after the engine build. I was breaking in the engine NA before I put the turbo back on.
There was a write up on HP.com, too bad it's gone.
Here is a link to the writeup that Firedrake did...
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