1999 Accord Transmission question
So tonight I purchased a 1999 Accord LX with an F23 with an automatic trans. the transmission is bad on it. I heard that the only transmission that would work is from a 98 or 99 Accord. How true is this? wouldn't any F series transmissions really work? what is difference between the transmissions?
thanks for the help.
thanks for the help.
98-02 Accord has M6HA automatic. Same transmission can be found in the 2.3CLs and Preludes(non ATTS models).
90-97 Accord H4A transmission is not compatible for use in 98-02 Accords.
Unless you are positive the transmission is damaged, it would be prudent to check for any stored codes in the PCM. An engine out of tune or with a bad sensor may seem to run fine but will cause several issues with shifting and operation of the transmission.
90-97 Accord H4A transmission is not compatible for use in 98-02 Accords.
Unless you are positive the transmission is damaged, it would be prudent to check for any stored codes in the PCM. An engine out of tune or with a bad sensor may seem to run fine but will cause several issues with shifting and operation of the transmission.
98-02 Accord has M6HA automatic. Same transmission can be found in the 2.3CLs and Preludes(non ATTS models).
90-97 Accord H4A transmission is not compatible for use in 98-02 Accords.
Unless you are positive the transmission is damaged, it would be prudent to check for any stored codes in the PCM. An engine out of tune or with a bad sensor may seem to run fine but will cause several issues with shifting and operation of the transmission.
90-97 Accord H4A transmission is not compatible for use in 98-02 Accords.
Unless you are positive the transmission is damaged, it would be prudent to check for any stored codes in the PCM. An engine out of tune or with a bad sensor may seem to run fine but will cause several issues with shifting and operation of the transmission.
- stored P0505 code no current CEL on
- slight delay and rough shift when shifting from Park to D4
- rough shift from 2nd to 1st gear.
- seemingly delayed 2nd to 3rd gear
- engine RPM increases about 500 rpm while shifting from 2nd to 3rd
yesterday I went to a salvage yard and picked up some shift solenoids and replaced shift solenoid B and C, which did not help the situation.
OK. so I've decided against replacing the whole transmission for now since I am not sure if the transmission that I would put in would be any better.
based on the symptoms above....what steps would you guys recommend taking to fix the issue?
full rebuild? try new lockout solenoids? anything?
based on the symptoms above....what steps would you guys recommend taking to fix the issue?
full rebuild? try new lockout solenoids? anything?
With the engine fully warmed up and all accessories off (AC/Headlights/fans/etc) check the idle speed of the engine in Park/Neutral.
If it is 700rpm +/- 50 rpm the idle control is fine, most likely an intermittent issue.
Check fluid level.
Verify the fluid is clean and does not smell burnt.
With the car on level ground, place the transmission in every gear for a few seconds, or until it engages, hold for a few more then select a different gear, from R>D1 and back. Pull the trans dipstick tube(while idling), wipe it clean, fully reinsert and check the level of the ATF. It should be midway on the hash marked area, if not add more fluid and proceed with charging every gear.
This could be from a defective Shift solenoid 'C', however there are two pressure switches, one for 2nd and 3rd gear. Verify they are not leaking ATF. Next remove them and check that there is no contaminants on the switch affecting it's activation.
2nd gear pressure switch is located under the distributor, screwed into the transmission. It may require removal of brackets to remove/install.
3rd gear pressure switch is located on the front of the transmission.
Part 1 -How to Test: Shift Solenoid B and C (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L)
You may also wish to pull the two speed sensors located on the right side cover. If they are contaminated with ferrous material they may give a false or delayed signal to the PCM. Remove, clean, reinstall.
I would verify the pressure switches are functional, and then check the wiring harness for any damaged/loose/corroded connections.
With the M6HA I would highly recommend sticking with the Honda ATF fluid.
If the fluid has not been changed in a while or no record of a change then the fluid itself may be breaking down and the friction modifiers are no longer functional. This would also cause a harsh shift.
Other fluids may not provide the needed friction modifiers and could actually cause the trans to feel better initially, but will cause the friction materials to wear out prematurely. If you must use an alternative use Dexron III, do not use a generic 'all atf type' fluid.
If it is 700rpm +/- 50 rpm the idle control is fine, most likely an intermittent issue.
Check fluid level.
Verify the fluid is clean and does not smell burnt.
With the car on level ground, place the transmission in every gear for a few seconds, or until it engages, hold for a few more then select a different gear, from R>D1 and back. Pull the trans dipstick tube(while idling), wipe it clean, fully reinsert and check the level of the ATF. It should be midway on the hash marked area, if not add more fluid and proceed with charging every gear.
2nd gear pressure switch is located under the distributor, screwed into the transmission. It may require removal of brackets to remove/install.
3rd gear pressure switch is located on the front of the transmission.
Part 1 -How to Test: Shift Solenoid B and C (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L)
You may also wish to pull the two speed sensors located on the right side cover. If they are contaminated with ferrous material they may give a false or delayed signal to the PCM. Remove, clean, reinstall.
With the M6HA I would highly recommend sticking with the Honda ATF fluid.
If the fluid has not been changed in a while or no record of a change then the fluid itself may be breaking down and the friction modifiers are no longer functional. This would also cause a harsh shift.
Other fluids may not provide the needed friction modifiers and could actually cause the trans to feel better initially, but will cause the friction materials to wear out prematurely. If you must use an alternative use Dexron III, do not use a generic 'all atf type' fluid.
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billk1002
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