Want to say thank you to this forum as it has been an invaluable resource for me. In great part to this forum I was able to do replace my front and rear struts, inner and outer tie rods(with boots), sway bar bushings, end links, front brakes(still have not tackled the rears yet), oil pan gasket, distributor o-ring, valve cover gasket and related parts(have not tackled valve stem seals), fuel filter, and various ac components when trying to convert to r-134.

I am currently just waiting for a high pressure relief valve for the compressor and I will refill the system and everything should be good to go at that point, I could only get my ac to around 58 degrees at the center vents. Is there anything you would recommend that I could to to possibly get it colder? I read somewhere about sealing the 1991 civic ac condenser and adding a secondary in essentially push pull mode similar to PC's.

I changed my o2 sensor and cat about 2 years ago to pass smog as my HC where a bit high. I have been dealing with slight hesitation at random times with WOT which I suspect at this moment it has to do with either my crank position sensor or TPS. I will be testing my TPS as soon as I can to see if this with my multimeter to see if they are within spec, if not I will bite the bullet and pay for the d15b2 tps from ebay for 129, or will try and rebuild mine using a d16 tps sensor. As far as I can tell most people say just to replace the distributor when the crank position sensor is bad. Is there any way that this can just be replaced? I read that these faulty parts could cause high HC and or hesitation during WOT, is this true? It makes sense from what I read because of unburned fuel.

If you read up to here thank you and sorry for the rambling. The main reason I wrote today is that my head-gasket decided to tank today. I am getting a cloud of white sweet smelling smoke(if that makes sense) that takes longer to dissipate. I also get a bit of smoke in the engine bay which I can see is coolant that is dripping onto the exhaust manifold. I can see some drops coming from the bottom front left corner of head near cylinder 4 as well as in the middle of the head behind the manifold. I tested compression yesterday as I was curious and wondering if my engine was just a bit worn and this is what was causing the hesitation. However, my compression seemed good to me and all 4 cylinders where within 10 percent of each other; they are as follows:

1: 190 after 5 cranks
2: 180 after 5 cranks
3: 190 after 5 cranks
4: 180 after 5 cranks

Anyone got a new good tips/tricks? I will be taking the head out and checking it with a feeler gauge to see if its within spec and I don't need to get the head milled; I may just do it anyways for peace of mind but since I am on a tight budget right now I would like to save as much as I can . I figured since I will be taking the head out I would replace the valve stem seals now rather then later as I think they are leaking a bit and the cause for my slight oil burning. I don't have any of the slushy stuff in my radiator so I think this is a good sign right? Maybe I can get away without a mill because I don't think my head is warped. I don't remember my car overheating, it has a 2 year old water pump, thermostat has been changed, flushed the coolant 1 time as it was not to dirty and I always try to make sure oil levels are good even on my long trips.

Can anyone recommend any good places in the Los Angeles area which have a reasonable cost in case I have to mill my head? I been reading and it should be somewhere between 40 and 100 bucks to have my head checked for cracks and milled right?

I called two shops and one said 700 while the other one said 1100. However, the 1,100 one said he did not recommend i do the job because it could cause more problems since milling the head would cause higher compression and my 300k engine could not handle it, is this true? What do you guys think? I think the compression is 9.2 to 1, right? How much more could the compression rise to? Will i be spewing oil everywhere ? The shop for 700 dollars is kind of a family mechanic but it still seems a bit high to me, I would of bit the bullet at around 550 but 700 was a bit more then I can swing on credit :D.

I will be getting the manual from Autozone to help me with this job just in case, I did download the manual but it rather hold the book then a computer and have to scroll through over 600 pages on a pdf viewer .

I will follow the proper removal sequence and instillation sequence which now includes the 3 stage torque method, right?

I would appreciate any recommendations, advice, comments, or general info that could assist me.

Thanks......

 

As far as manual's all the information you need is to view here in the FAQ's.

I would get the head milled and jet washed, not sure you need seals though would have to inspect. Make sure you use a Honda head gasket, might as well replace the timing belt, tenionser and water pump all at the same time. I used a gates kit on mine from amazon, rock auto has them too for fairly cheap. Spark plugs, exhaust manifold gasket, intake manifold gasket, thermostat and valve cover gasket set should all be replaced at the same time.

What is 700 to 1100 dollars? is that for removal and install? Sounds about right as this can be a several hour job.

 

Removing the head and redoing the seals and gaskets yourself is easy. The head gasket is easy. I would suggest removing the head, removing just about everything from it, taking it to the shop, have them check with a true straight edge and get it milled to spec if you need to. After that, replacing all the seals and gaskets is simple and you should be able to drop it back in. The only specialty tool you'll need is a torque wrench and a valve tool. The puff of white smoke sounds like valve seals to me.

As for your stumbling, I would check your mechanical timing first. It could be something simple. I would also replace simpler, smaller, cheaper parts before I went with a new dizzy. It could be a clogged fuel filter, who knows. A car with 300ks running into WOT stumbling sounds so minor to me.

Also, your compression looks good to me.

 

Thanks for the advice guys.

@ Bently Coop: If the timing belt , tensioner, water pump where replaced about 3 years ago do do you think I should change them again? I will be checking the belt to see if its too worn but I if its not I think I will just keep it that way. Whats your opinion ? As for the thermostat and valve cover gasket I changed those about 6 months ago, surely they could not have gone bad in such a short time, right?

The cost at 700 and 1100 dollars to remove the head, machine, install gasket, and install head; no other parts are included at this price.

@Freemananana: Thanks for the advice. I have a torque wrench and will be renting a valve tool kit. I have to torque specs numbers in a downloaded pdf but will be confirming with the repair manual when I do the work. I will check my mechanical timing as I suspect its off one tooth anyways but hey only way to know is to check right. I dont think its the fuel filter as that was replaced along with the valve cover gasket several months ago, is it possible its clogged already?

Anyone know a good machine shop in Los Angeles?

Any further help is appreciated peeps.

 

You could easily have knocked rust and junk loose in the gas tank and clogged the filter again.

But if you are a whole tooth off on timing, that's your problem more than anything. The ECU sees what is happening and attempts to correct via ignition maps, but the mechanical timing of the valves isn't right in relation to the pistons and you are getting an oddball stroke in there. I don't know if it would be on the compression stroke or what, but your cylinder is opening premature or too late or something. Definitely not optimal.

As for LA machine shops, I'd ask around town. The part store guys will sometimes have a shop they suggest. For instance, my local Advanced Auto Parts guy drives a turbo 240 drift car he built. I usually ask him what shops around town he uses. I noticed his car in the parking lot and had to stop and ask who it belonged to. Sometimes you luck out. Sometimes you end up with the guy/gal that is just working a 9-5 and can work drop down menus.

 

Thanks freemanana. I will ask around and see what people tell me but if anyone else sees this in time id appreciate a chime in as to good fair priced machine shop in Los Angeles area. I guess since the fuel filter is not that expensive I may replace it. I think however ill take if off first and pour anything out of it to see if its too dirty and if its not I may just keep it.

 

here's some of the better repair guys, call and ask who they use:

Best Auto in Los Angeles, CA

 

Thanks ill check them out i found a place that has good review and as soon as I take my head off will get it cleaned and milled as well as pressure checked just in case.

 

So I replaced the head gasket and it looks like its leaking a bit of oil in the front right corner of the head near the power steering pump. Do I have to take off the black bracket in that area? Would it affect the sealing of the head to the block? Should I add a dab of hondabond in that corner? I will be taking everything apart to see what the issue is? I torques the head in two steps , first at 22 and then at 47 lb-ft.

I would appreciate a little more advice.

 

Need help guys I replaced the headgasket as it was bad, it shifted on instillation, this new one seemed to go on straight and there is no oil leak and no blue smoke. I also replaced the valve stem seals as they were worn to ****. I set timing at TDC and now it revs past 4k RPM , this was an easy I was having before. It pulls strong and has strong compression number 190 across all cylinders. However there is a cloud of white smoke , could it be from the card cleaner and combustion chamber cleaner I used to clean parts? Could there also be residue left over? I opened the radiator and there is no bubling effect while the car is running and when I turn on the car nothing gushing out of it; so I dont think the headgasket is bad. I replaced the pcv valce but the black kind of catch can its attached to I sprayed it with card cleaner and not sure if it evaporated. Could this be causing the smoke also?

So to summarize timing at 18 BTDC , compression 190 across all cylinders, the radiator hose are not bubbling anymore like they did with my first head gasket install. I have not changed the fluids (oil and radiator) yet. Would this help?

Please help, I would appreciate it.

I

 

BUMP... Anything?

 

Did you put old coolant and old oil back in? I would swap those out as part of a Head Gasket change.


18 BTDC seems a bit high but I could be wrong.


Hondabond is not going to help the oil leak.


What head gasket are you using? Brand?

 

Yea its the old coolant and oil still in there which at this time in guessing is what causing the problem. I read on the sticker that its supposed to bt 18 BTDC plus or minus 2 so that is what I did.

The oil leak was with the old headgasket, this one has no oil leak.

I am using felpro permatorque gasket.

 

how far/long have you driven it since the new gasket?

 

Did you use a timing light to set the 18BTDC?

Get rid of the old coolant and only use a 50/50 mix or use distilled water and mix it your self. I would guess that the mixing of fluids is not helping. Oil is a lubricant and water/anti-freeze is not able to compress like a gas.