So my car was overheating, had someone rebuild motor and four days later the sh#$ started overheating again.

Now I'm into it $1500, mechanic won't own up to his mistake, and not sure what to do cause I'm fed up with this issue and I want to have a working car.

1) scrap the car. 210k miles, Needs body work, AC takes a while to cool. Other than that it works fine. No leaks. Has been a reliable car.

2) Install another motor. I was thinking jdm D17A with VTEC because I can get one of those for $650 shipped where a D17A1 is either high miles or more expensive $800. Now my current motor in Non Vtec. So I can either leave VTec unplugged or install a VAFC2.

What are all of your suggestions. Has anyone done this swap and left VTEC unplugged. Is there a drop in power compared to non VTEC?

With VTEC working is gas mileage better or worse?

Should I just go for another D17A1?

 

So I've been asking the people that sell the JDM engines and they tell me not hooking up the VTEC is exactly like having a D17A1. Same power, same gas mileage. No adverse affect on engine either.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

I'd get the VTEC version, and try to source an EX ECU/harness and have it programmed. Can you run it non-VTEC? Sure. But, you'll gain a slight improvement in fuel economy in the long run, if you do run it.

 

Thanks, I think I'm go VTEC route. I'll run it without VTEC first. Then when I save up enough cash I'll purchase the ECU and harness and have it programmed.

So does an EX ECU/harness have to match number wise? or will any ex ecu/ harness combination work so long as they are from an EX? Like if I bought an EX harness from one car and EX ECU from another, they should work together?

 

The harness doesn't need to match anything VIN wise, as it's just a collection of wires and connectors. There's really nothing specific about it, other then whether or not it has certain features wired in (like VTEC).

 

Don't agree completely with you.

D17A2 is vtec-e. That means without vtec it would run like having just 4 intake valves. The vtec engage on lower rpm range when power demands for the 8 intake valves. If run without vtec what you will have is a bit of lack of power when going up a hill or something similar because 4 intake valves instead of 8.

It does have a bit more gas mileage but not a big deal. If want to run with EX ECU, you will need to run just the vtec and oil switch wires. Some 2001's (LX, DX) and early models doesn't have EGR, and if the ECU runs with it and don't have it you may end with MIL on and a code.

If it was me, I will do the D17A2 swap if it is cheaper than the A1, then use an Apexi VAFC to run the vtec at a certain point like 4000rpm or something. Set it up more for feeling than anything else.

This cars are obd2b and after a few runs the factory ECU will adjust fuel itself.

Remember, this A2 engine is a vtec-E (E=economy) and it isn't for performance power. It's slightly higher power rating (~12-15hp more) is more because of higher compression ratio than because of vtec.

 

How so? You provided no counter-argument as to why you disagree, only more information that coincides with what I posted.

 

Don't agree on what to do. D17 ecu can't be programed, unless you are speaking about key, which is the inmobilizer. And it shouldn't be run without Vtec because what explained. Its not like d16 vtec where you have primary, secondary and vtec cam lobes. With d17 you only have primary, which is the same as vtec lobe, and secondary that do nothing more than help with fuel efficiency.

Is easier with the VAFC to activate vtec, because if you do fuel maps the stock ecu will change them.

 

I was referring to matching the Immobilizer ring, key, and ECU. I know you can't just program an EX ECU without some form of sub-board (like K-Pro), and even then... D17 ECU's don't support any form of aftermarket sub-board.

And, per your responses, you agree with my statement of purchasing the D17A2. I am confused at your posts, because there really isn't an argument made... just supporting information to what has already been posted.

 

I did the A1 to A2 swap in my 02 after overheating my original motor and warping the block. Used a VAFC2 to control my vtec and then eventually to do a base tune on a Turbo setup. If you have a good local shop (that you trust) they can be a great resource for how to go about making this transition. Not sure where you're located but if in IL I have a great resource that helped me.

 

So i just decided to take on this challenge, but as a 15 year old idk what i got myself into. So im wondering. Does it matter if the wiring harness comes out of a manual or automatic, if so, elaborate. And i also wanted to know if there was any problem with putting a ex ecu in an lx car, if so, what would it be?