I recently smogged my 91 Civic DPFI, and the technician said my timing was too advanced; by 3 degrees (@17 deg). He said the state (of California) allows +/- 3 degrees and that I just passed (should be 14 deg)....

I adjusted the timing right before the smog test. I lined up with middle-mark (of the three on the harmonic balancer).

I can't retard the timing anymore. Physically the distributor won't move any further for adjustment. And yes coincidentally the distributor maxed-out right where the alignment of the timing marks were 'supposed' to be.......

My idle is little high. between 1200 - 1500 RPM.
I just fixed a leaky fuel injector (cracked o-ring)
It had (fixed) a leaky spark plug tube seal; but it leaked for a few years
I'm constantly cleaning out the EGR valve of carbon (which causes a shaky idle)
I've done the IACV cleaning
PCV is clean
Timing belt was replaced (not by me) 3 years ago
Distributor is about 3 years old (Reman.)

I can't figure out how else to manage this? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

 

<p>Are you using a timing gun?</p><p>Are you disabling the electronic ignition advance before you try setting timing by putting a jumper in the service connector?</p><p>If you said YES to both of those, check to make sure your timing belt isn't off a tooth.</p>

 

Yup I'm using a timing gun.
No I wasn't jumping the connector.
So I went to do it and noticed it didn't make a difference??? I still can't retard it any further. There was no change in idle, etc..

BUT,
I saw a video of someone messing with they're 'dashpot' and throttle linkage:

Start at 4:00


So I messed with mine a little (while it was on). Sure enough the idle dropped (better). I played with it (loosening then tightening to understand the behavior). Then the idle came back up and I started hearing a little whistling sound........ After the whistling started the idle wouldn't lower anymore. It was coming from the SHAFT that the throttle/spring/dashpot is attached to (the part he's messing with in the video).

It sounds like there's a vacuum leak coming from there? Is that possible/common?

 

<p>I would figure that the vacuum leak is only going to help lower your idle.</p><p>It shouldn't have any effect on your base timing - maybe ECU adjusted&nbsp;timing, but not base.</p><p>At this point, since you did adjust with the service&nbsp;connector&nbsp;jumped, you should have a look at your mechanical timing to see if your timing belt is off a tooth.</p>

 

So by off a tooth do you mean that the belt has a specific position on the sprockets? As in it only goes on one way?

Or that the alignment (at TDC) of the cam pulley and the crankshaft pulley is off?

Or both?

Thanks in advance

 

<p><img src="https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-tech.com-vbulletin/892x619/80-picture_0703_d26525bfd7fbae5a2e7574c80718c07aa1e7a 748.jpg" title="" /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Remove your spark plugs and valve cover and upper timing belt cover.<br />Rotate your crank by hand to align the crank pulley with the marks on the lower timing belt cover. &nbsp;Only turn counterclockwise.<br />Make sure the alignment marks on the cam sprocket are in line with the surface of the head just like the picture shows.<br />If the marks are&nbsp;tilted, then the belt is off a tooth. &nbsp;<br />The belt tensioner needs to be loosened and the belt needs to be put back on properly with the cam alignment marks set properly.<br /><br /><br />&nbsp;</p>

 

if you are not at proper idle you cant set base timing anyway.

 

Very possible. Vacuum leaks will cause an idle to GO UP, not go down. And like v4lu3s said, you can't set timing unless the idle is correct. Fix the high idle by fixing the vac leak, then your timing can be set.

 

Thanks for the replies guys

Here are my findings:

I lined up the head surface with a wooden ruler (straight, not warped)


<br><br>

<br><br>

 

<p></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>you are right! &nbsp;Not sure what I was thinking. &nbsp;Idle goes up with leak, not down.&nbsp;</p>