Where does A22 on OBD1 pinout go?
OK so i'm fitting a Bee R limiter to my EG.*
Found instructions on honda-tech.com which are really clear and good, few members on here seem to of uses the same instructions by the looks of a search.
Basically, what I need, is somebody with an OBD1 honda to go outside and look at they're pinout, and then follow wire A22 to where it goes.*
Or if anybody knows off the top of their head, that'd be better!*
Apparently on some looms, 2 ignition control wires join together, and then continue down to a21, thus leaving a22 empty.
I need to cut the wire coming from a22, so i'm thinking if I can find out*where it goes, I can cut it at the other end obviously.*
Anybody that's willing to help out, it's appreciated!
Found instructions on honda-tech.com which are really clear and good, few members on here seem to of uses the same instructions by the looks of a search.
Basically, what I need, is somebody with an OBD1 honda to go outside and look at they're pinout, and then follow wire A22 to where it goes.*
Or if anybody knows off the top of their head, that'd be better!*
Apparently on some looms, 2 ignition control wires join together, and then continue down to a21, thus leaving a22 empty.
I need to cut the wire coming from a22, so i'm thinking if I can find out*where it goes, I can cut it at the other end obviously.*
Anybody that's willing to help out, it's appreciated!
You could have just started by searching, all the information is readily available.
A21 and A22 tie in together about 8 inches or so into the harness from the ECU plug. From there they go to the square connector with 7 wires at the distributor. Some EMS require clippling the A22 connection anyways.
That I have seen it's never two wires into A21, it's either one wire into A21 or A21 and A22 joining together later in harness (but still close to ECU) and then going through the firewall to the distributor plug.
A21 and A22 tie in together about 8 inches or so into the harness from the ECU plug. From there they go to the square connector with 7 wires at the distributor. Some EMS require clippling the A22 connection anyways.
That I have seen it's never two wires into A21, it's either one wire into A21 or A21 and A22 joining together later in harness (but still close to ECU) and then going through the firewall to the distributor plug.
You could have just started by searching, all the information is readily available.
A21 and A22 tie in together about 8 inches or so into the harness from the ECU plug. From there they go to the square connector with 7 wires at the distributor. Some EMS require clippling the A22 connection anyways.
That I have seen it's never two wires into A21, it's either one wire into A21 or A21 and A22 joining together later in harness (but still close to ECU) and then going through the firewall to the distributor plug.
A21 and A22 tie in together about 8 inches or so into the harness from the ECU plug. From there they go to the square connector with 7 wires at the distributor. Some EMS require clippling the A22 connection anyways.
That I have seen it's never two wires into A21, it's either one wire into A21 or A21 and A22 joining together later in harness (but still close to ECU) and then going through the firewall to the distributor plug.
I'm basically needing to clip a22, but it's just an empty slot.
So I'm thinking I could clip it at the other end, you reckon it's in the dizzy plug?
I get you buddy. Maybe it's something else then. The ground is fine and I've got the ignition coming off a25. The more I think about this, the bigger the possibility of it being a broken bee r seem to be.
Just a thought whilst I'm at work (I'm in the Uk).
What if, I connect the ignition straight to the battery positive and the ground to the battery ground. Obviously just to check if the LED is going to light up, and really just to see if I can get some sort of response from it.
What if, I connect the ignition straight to the battery positive and the ground to the battery ground. Obviously just to check if the LED is going to light up, and really just to see if I can get some sort of response from it.
Knowing nothing about the "Bee R" device I looked it up. It appears you are hooking it up wrong according to below. Not only do you need to cut the A22 if it has one, but you need to cut the A21 in hook the ECU side to the Bee R unit and the other side to a different wire on the Bee R unit.
Here is the website for instructions... 
http://www.bee-r.com/
http://www.bee-r.com/main/rev/revlimitter.pdf
try this way,
BLACK - Ground
RED - Ignition power
WHITE - Rev2 trigger wire, ground to activate
GREEN - Ignitor wire, harness side
YELLOW - Ignitor wire, ECU side
BLACK AND RED WIRE
Find a suitable ground and power source. If you can't do this, stop now, get someone else to install it. You can take ignition power off the ECU at pin A25 like they suggest, but I chose not to mess with my ECU harness more than I had to.
WHITE WIRE
When you ground this wire, the Rev2 function is triggered. The best choices are either the hand brake or the clutch. For the hand brake, remove the trim around your shifter and tap into the GRY wire near the hand brake. For the clutch, tap into the BLU-BLK wire on your clutch switch.
GREEN AND YELLOW WIRE
Find pin A22 on the ECU harness and cut it, yes cut it, then properly insulate the wire ends. Find pin A21 on the ECU harness and cut it, then crimp on male and female bullet connectors. Both those wires should be RED-GRN.
Take your green wire from the Bee*R unit and crimp on a bullet connector, then connect it to the harness side of the A21 wire. Take your yellow wire from the Bee*R unit and crimp on a bullet connector, then connect it to the ECU side of the A21 wire.
BLACK - Ground
RED - Ignition power
WHITE - Rev2 trigger wire, ground to activate
GREEN - Ignitor wire, harness side
YELLOW - Ignitor wire, ECU side
BLACK AND RED WIRE
Find a suitable ground and power source. If you can't do this, stop now, get someone else to install it. You can take ignition power off the ECU at pin A25 like they suggest, but I chose not to mess with my ECU harness more than I had to.
WHITE WIRE
When you ground this wire, the Rev2 function is triggered. The best choices are either the hand brake or the clutch. For the hand brake, remove the trim around your shifter and tap into the GRY wire near the hand brake. For the clutch, tap into the BLU-BLK wire on your clutch switch.
GREEN AND YELLOW WIRE
Find pin A22 on the ECU harness and cut it, yes cut it, then properly insulate the wire ends. Find pin A21 on the ECU harness and cut it, then crimp on male and female bullet connectors. Both those wires should be RED-GRN.
Take your green wire from the Bee*R unit and crimp on a bullet connector, then connect it to the harness side of the A21 wire. Take your yellow wire from the Bee*R unit and crimp on a bullet connector, then connect it to the ECU side of the A21 wire.

http://www.bee-r.com/
http://www.bee-r.com/main/rev/revlimitter.pdf
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