Hello again everyone. I've searched and searched, and still can't find a very clear answer to my question. I'm trying to decide between the euro r h22a or the jdm h22a. I know they have about the same torque, but the extra 20 horsepower isn't cheap to get out of an NA h22. I already have a good intake pipe for it and a good exhaust. I know the jdm version can be just as powerful as the euro r with mods, but I want to start out with a motor that's already further ahead you know? The euro r just seems to be better dollar for dollar now that both of the motors have gotten older. On hmotors, the euro r is like 1800 plus shipping. Do you guys think that it's worth it? Also, what kind of dealer is JDM engine corp? Are they any good? They have the euro r for $1,525 with free shipping.

 

It depends on whether you intend to modify the motor internals or not. If you are looking for big N/A power, you will be getting better cams and pistons etc. If this is the case, why would you buy the more expensive euro-r, only to replace the things that make it more expensive? If you just want to keep the motor stock though with more power, get the euro.

I've decided to indulge your thread because I'm bored. But this thread is pointless and not really tech related. "Is it worth it" type threads are opinion generators, not tech generators.

 

Well, I obviously won't do any internal work for a while. Didn't mean to step on any toes. I'm not entirely familiar with how to navigate this site yet. Anyway, thanks for the info.

 

If you are planning on doing any internal work at all in the future, I'd say don't get the euro-r. The jdm h22a is capable of 200whp with good bolt ons alone, and is much cheaper. The money you save can go to something else that needs improvement on the car

 

Yeah you're right man. I decided on the regular h22. There's just too much of a price difference to justify the euro r.

 

<p>H23Vtec</p><p>https://honda-tech.com/honda-prelude...tions-2341343/</p><p>If I were to start with a different engine it would be this.</p>

 

Good point. I think it's Jay West who has 260+ whp on stock bottom end?

 

H23A Vtec. Hmotorsonline. Win. Won't be mad.

 

Thanks guys! Yeah I looked at that motor before. Does the stroke affect its ability for higher revs if I build the head later?

 

Now that's a tech question and yes, very much so. Basically, the shorter the stroke, the higher the revs. B18cr and F20c rev to 9000 (notice the short stroke), but that doesn't help us much in an H series application. H series crank info is out there, but I'll just provide it here:
H22 crank seems to be generally good up to 8500
H23, 8000+
H23vtec, nearly 9000 in the case of one guy on here, but that might just be a freak motor.

This is all assuming a balanced assembly and good bearings

Someone provide correction if my rev ranges are off

 

The typical number I've read for both motors is that 8k is basically the standard, safe rev limit. Sure, it could go higher, but why push it if it's not built to.

OP, why are revs important to you? Will you be road racing/auto x?

 

Honestly, I've been reading, and revving way past 7k doesn't really seem to be all that important. I may build the head later, but the power on those motors is in the mid range all the way up to 7. I just got used to my gsr motor and being able to rev that much higher.

 

I don't know who told you that, but that is completely false, all of it.

1. RPM is a horsepower multiplier. HP=(RPM*T)/5252

2. Your cams, intake and exhaust manifold will mostly dictate where you make power. Even with stock h22 cams, power can be made at 8,000RPM+ with replica header and something like a skunk2 intake manifold or better. And remember, the higher the RPM, the more the horsepower, assuming you're still making OK torque. The H series is definitely benefitted by revving past a measly 7k

 

The red top h22a does have some benefits, depending on what you want. It comes with a nice intake manifold for one thing. It seems more popular to gut the standard manifold but I personally think the type s mani is pretty slick. Plus you get the more aggressive cams, and high compression pistons. Not bad.

I have to agree with the other guys tho, the H23A is even better for less money. "Theres no replacement for displacement". But Even better yet, install a crower 100mm crank in a red top motor. Oh baby that would be sweet.

My opinion on the rpm thing... Meh. I keep the fuel cut set at 7400 and have no complaints. Could go a little higher but I can't see why you'd want to rev an H past 8000 unless its an all out race motor with large cams and the ability to breathe big.

 

Concerning RPM, I will provide specs on my H22a for reference:

Made 189whp (was low because of stock TB and dented stock size header). Stock long block

Only mods concerning RPM are Skunk2 tuner1 cams (not much larger than stock at all) and skunk2 intake manifold.

Revved to 7800rpm with power still heavily climbing. Power never started to fall off even a little.

This isn't some big race motor, just a kind of cheap street one

 

I was talking about the H23a Vtec motor. Sorry for the confusion. I read up on those and they make their peak power at 6800 in stock form. What the H23a can handle rpm wise in stock form is turning out to be just whatever the owners can rev them to without blowing them up haha. Thanks for the input guys. Much appreciated.

 

H23 bottom end, H22a Type-S pistons, H22a head & OEM head gasket = 12.2:1(ish lol)... and that's one bad *** mother ******.

Throw some ARP rod bolts in it, balance the COMPLETE rotating assembly, and 8000rpm would be a good rev limit. Bonus if you throw aftermarket rods at it, or even wrist pins, that'll really help things out.

I bought a transmission from JDM Engine Corp. I spoke with the owner, he was a ******* ********. The transmission on the other hand, arrived quickly, packaged properly, looked beautiful, etc. all is well.

Keep the added parts you'll need in mind when determining the price you want to pay for the engine. Always find out what comes with it. Decide what kind of ECU you're going to run it on, and go from there.

 

That's some good info. It's definitely between hmotors and jdm engine corp. Thanks brother!

 

My advice? Buy the engine LAST! Think of this thing like a black market organ transplant with a 24 hour warranty. You want to have everything pulled apart, ready to accept the new motor and test fire it. That's the only way you're going to stand a chance with a warranty claim. Otherwise I think they give you 30 days, and as we all know, some projects sit way longer lol.

 

I heard that! Definitely going to buy the engine last. If I had the equipment then I could have the engine swapped in a day. Too bad I don't haha

 

Harbor Freight cherry picker is $150 and their engine stand is $50, if that helps.