So I have a 93 civic and I get this awful noise coming from the front pass and driver side when rolling.

As soon as I let off the clutch from 1st gear engagement I hear it. It's a squealing noise, seems it comes from both of those sides at the same time. More faster I go the noise increases. Same noise on both sides.

Now here's the catch if I apply the lightest bit of brake it goes away. I just replaced rotors and pads, did I possibly not grease it well enough? Because that's all I can come up with.

New balljoints all around except the UCA ones. And only because they were in good shape.

Please I could really use some assistance on this. Thanks in advance!

 

Nobody?

 

bumpp wtf just because I bumped a old thread I can't even a reply? I was on my way to work sorry I didn't check the date, it just popped up and I only saw 2 replies so I thought it was recent.

 

Brake dust shield. Check both sides carefully and look for any wear marks on the side facing the rotor.

or just bend the **** out of it away from the rotor to make sure it's clearing.

 

Wait, you said when you apply the brakes it goes away, sounds like the pads are riding the rotors, your caliper slide pins are probably sticking.

 

What kind of grease on the slide pins? What kind of grease on the pads?

 

Did you make grease between the pads and the brackets? Check your wheel hub bearings.

 

Both all brake dust shields are deleted. I went by a DIY on here, and it said not to grease the pads or rotors. I just put grease on what he pictured. Which was the outside of the oad.

Pass side wheel bearing is 3 months old. But no play in either wheel.

I think caoboy is unto something. I'm gonna pull it all apart today, but what would make the pins stick like that?

 

Synthetic brake grease.

 

Should I grease the pins? How do I go about this? Just push them back? Replace them with new ones? And when I do, do I have to bleed the brakes again?

 

Ok when u pull the pins grease them make sure the little boot does not come out with it since its a little bit of a PITA to put back in but easily done, once the brakes are apart look at everything see if there are scooring marks on anything wich would indicate were some noise would be coming from, now put on the brake caliper bracket not the whole thing on yet once the brake caliper bracket is on inspect were the brake hardware is at if its touching the rotor it will make that noise and if it is i usually just use a flat head screwdriver and kinda push it over so it will be evenly spaced on both sides and No u do not need to bleed the brakes when u take the brake slide pins out

 

Sounds like you used a DIY that was wrong. You basically need to put grease on every contact point of the pad, except where the pad touches the rotor.

 

Ahhh ****. Well doesnt look like im taking it apart today. Work was crazy, and the noise of this squeak all the 20 miles home, I feel pretty depressed. Might just tuck my ***** in and drop it off to a mechanic.

 

It's really not that hard. Jack stands, wheels off, swing caliper out, put brake grease where it belongs, calipers back down, wheels back on, car on ground, done. We're talking like, 30 minutes max.

 

Okay, but if that fails i'm just taking it to a shop. Bdays tomorrow and I got work. So if not tomorrow ill report back friday.

 

Okay so this might be real stupid, but how do you get the caliper to swing? I removed the bottom bolt that seems like it connects to the rotor.

I swear last time all I did was pull that bolt and it swung right up. Or is it the last bottom bolt with the rubber boot?

 

<p>It's the small bolt (10 or 12mm head) that you want to remove, and loosen the other one slightly. &nbsp;Sounds like you removed the bigger (15 or 17mm head) bolt, which is the caliper bracket bolt.&nbsp;</p>

 

Omg I can't find anything that will fit on that bolt. I tried 10-12 mm 6 point and 12 point. I think I used a 11 last time but now it won't fit.

 

<p>Let this be a lesson for you, then. &nbsp;Always use the correct tool. &nbsp;You fucked up the bolt, and now you're gonna play hell getting it off.</p>

 

The bolt doesn't look stripped or rounded tho. Well you didn't technically specify which is the correct tool. I used a socket of 10-12 mm, so I don't see how it would strip.

One last question, if I take out the used brake pads and reinstall the same ones do I still need a c clamp?

And thanks for your help NAR.

Edit: okay I know your not a honda library, but what would be the tall tale symptoms of a bad caliper? And would I need a c clamp to replace it? Thanks.

 

<p>You shouldn't need a clamp, no.</p>

 

How could I tell if my brake calipers are bad?

 

<p>Well, if there's fluid leaking from the piston, they're bad. &nbsp;If there's obvious uneven wear, they're bad. &nbsp;If they weren't bad when you did the last brake job that resulted in your squealing, though, I doubt they're bad now. &nbsp;The reason you need a clamp when doing a brake job is because the piston comes further out as the pad wears down, and you have to push that caliper back in so the new, thick pads will fit over the rotor. &nbsp;Since you aren't actually replacing the pads, you shouldn't need to do all that.</p>

 

I'm going crazy man. First I got squealing when applying light brake, which I still have. Did the brake job and I still have it! But now I have 2 noises. The squealing when light braking, and after the brake job now I get squeaking while the car is just cruising. Does this replicate any symptom of a bad caliper? No leaks, but I have not inspected the inside of the caliper yet.


Please say yes, my del sol is now a squeaky hoopty, I replaced all these parts just to prevent that. I'm so tired of this

 

<p>Not really. &nbsp;All of those symptoms point to improperly installed brake pads, or a failing wheel hub bearing.</p>