Hey all,

I'm about to replace my rear controls arms because the bushings seem to be worn and dried up. It was indicated to me that it's cheaper to replace them rather than to press in new bushings. I believe the garage told me that my trailing arm and lower control arms were in need of replacement.

I'm wondering if it matters whether or not I should buy an OEM control arm or try to find something on eBay. Right now the control arms were not stock when I bought this 95 Civic HB VX.

I'm trying to stay cost effective, but I also don't want to end up with a crappy part that will break on me months later.

I don't drive the car terribly hard, but I want something that is robust and sturdy. The car is bone stock mechanically .

I just checked and it's about $100 per arm if I were to buy an OEM part. Seems a little high, but I do want to keep this car as my daily for many years to come.

 

Google "HardRace" and look at what they have to offer.

 

It is cheaper to buy new arms rather than press new bushings. But...I'm not sure you'll find quality arms for less than $100/ea.

Try bernardiparts.com or hondaautomotiveparts.com.

They are discount Honda genuine parts sites. Should be closer to $60/arm.

Buy either the Honda genuine trailing arm bushings for about $35/ea, or the ones from hardrace.

I would not buy generic replacement arms as most aftermarket rubber bushings are hit or miss.

Be careful to clock the bushings properly. This is extremely important if you want them to last more than a few months. The trailing arm bushings should be clocked while assembling. The LCA bushings can be clocked by traditional means (tighten the bolts when the car's weight is on the tires/LCA's....like tightening them on an alignment rack, for example).

 

Exactly, the shop does this to minimize the work needed to replace a worn bushing, replace the arm or replace the bushing. Which one takes longer. Now what you can do is take off the arms and bring it to them to press out and press in the bushings. It will save them time. Go ahead, go back and ask him his quote on replacing bushings but this time tell him what if you brought the arms to him. This will save him time from having to remove, press bushings and re-install.

 

Even if you brought the arms...the amount of time required to push in 3 bushings per arm is going to probably be more expensive or as expensive compared to buying arms.

Plus the time and effort of removing your own rusty, shitty arms, and having to bum a ride to go give them to the guy.

If you can buy new arms for a reasonable price, I'd do that, cost and effort considered.

 

not exactly but its worth a shot.

 

you can do it yourself, it isnt brain surgery.
i rented the clamp and the honda adaptor kit
from oreally's. it's free but you need to leave
a deposit of $250 or so. i also had to buy a 27mm
socket to do the bushings. you can do lower
ball joints and wheel bearings while youre at it.
i went with hardrace and bilstein for the shocks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPbL9HTHZg0

 

You were able to press LCA bushings with a mechanical press? Do they use road salt where you live?

 

Is this what I'm looking for? Is this all I need?

Hardrace Rear Lower Arms Black 92-95 Civic / 94-01 Integra GSR LS - 7103 - BuyHardRace.com

Hardrace Rear Trailing Arm Bushings 92-95 Civic EG - 6106 - BuyHardRace.com



My mechanic quoted me about $200-$250 for labor if I brought him parts. $60 for installation of the control arms. The rest is for putting in bushing for the existing trailing arms.

 

lol not sure if they can afford road salt now in the mo. ozarks boonies, maybe beet juice and sand or whatever.
i did use a big *** breaker bar and lube and freezer on the bushings and heat on the lca.
seems a lot better but also used dow u-428 window weld on the trashed motor mounts, likely my (most) real problem.

 

I bought a rear LCA at oriellys couple weeks ago. The Import Direct brand. $40 for the drivers side cuz the damn lower strut bolt was rusted inside the bushing of the control arm. Looked like good quality. Fitment was on point. Works good for me. Was simple to install.

 

I'm still looking for a brand to go with.

A friend recommended this company. They are very expensive though.

BLACKWORKS BILLET LOWER CONTROL ARM: CIVIC 88-95 / INTEGRA 90-01 - BLACK

 

Function7 > OEM > Hardrace

**** anything else.

Function7 can often be had for cheaper or very similar price in comparison with OEM.

 

If you want to cheap out than go ahead....

 

I think I'll go with Function7. After that, I'll just replace the bushings on the trailing arms. I just picked up a rear set of disc brakes off of an Integra that will go nicely on my HB VX.

 

What about the new SK2 Ultra LCA? Forged aluminum, two different durometer bushings, and a pilo ball on the outboard end to allow for twisting from the RTA. All said and done it is an actual improvement over the OEM design not just a shiny lighter one. (not affiliated, just impressed with the thought and design that went into it.)

 

There are a few other options like that, but probably much harsher on the street:

Kiwi Signature & Password-JDM Signature LCA (2 spherical & 1 bronze bearing to prevent rotation).

KingPin Machine (3 spherical w/ a delrin spacer to prevent rotation)

On the softer side (in theory) we have the often overlooked basic Hardrace 3-rubber bushing LCA. I've always wanted to try them. Maintains OEM articulation for only $135 a pair. Keep in mind the sway holes are not threaded, so I'm guessing longer end-link bolts & nuts are required for EG/DC.

 

first---why not crawl under the car and see if you do infact need the parts?
if your unsure--take a pic and post it, we'll tell if you need new control arms.

 

Thanks for all your help. I went with Function7 and I haven't had any issues so far. I went to the Honda dealer for something unrelated and passed their 20 point inspection with basically flying colors.

 

anything new?

 

He literally just posted, 11 hours ago. Do you think there'll be anything new beyond what he just said?

 

Moog makes good stuff and rockauto sells them cheap and some part stores price match. I can't remember ever seeing a federal mogul (they own moog, felpro, etc) part that was bad.

 

Moog no longer "makes" good stuff, from personal experience.

Pulling the lca and bringing it to the shop to press out the bad bushing is probably the cheaper route. If the shop has to pull the part off the car than yeah they charge more.

 

I don't have any update. I wouldn't really know the difference between a good and a bad control arm either. I've been driving on Function7 for a few months now and everything appears to be normal.

 

I don't really have an update to what my experience has been with the arms. They seem to work fine and I have had no issues with therm. I have not been able to compare them to other arms, so I can't exactly say how much of a difference they are to other brands, etc.

I do have a loud squeak in my passenger side rear, but I'm unsure if it's related to the arm.