Just had new honda clutch installed...
So today I got my 06 R18 back from the shop, with a new Honda clutch, T.O. bearing, bushing, pressure plate and new flywheel. MUCH smoother than the crappy clutch it replaced. Is it normal for the clutch petal to feel a little softer? Also for the stock Honda clutch, what is the recommended break in mileage for this clutch? Whats a safe rpm range to keep her in until its broken in?
The softer pedal feel is normal but it should have more of a linear feeling to the pressure than the old plate. When Honda installed mine, the service guy told me to take it easy for 500 miles.
500-1000 is normal for break in. after the 500 you can start to drive it more normal. Just try not to do any crazy heel-toe or engine braking until then. so you don't glaze the clutch surface.
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No, 3.5k is not too high for break in. Just drive it sensibly. Don't bang through shifts and don't slip the clutch excessively. I wouldn't worry too much. You don't have to do anything really special to break it in.
I actually never break in clutches...but...that's me.
I actually never break in clutches...but...that's me.
Ok thanks for the advice guys. Only other problem I'm having is sometimes when I let out the clutch I feel and hear a sort of clunk. Not sure what might be causing that. Was doing it before new clutch was in too any ideas? Anyone else had that problem?
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Probably a clicking master cylinder and/or master cylinder pushrod clevis and pin need lubrication.
that can cause a clunk feel when letting out clutch? all i know is it has 167k on the odometer. but its clunked like this the whole 2+ years ive owned it. drives me crazy and hope it not damaging car. is this year and model known to have issues with the master and/or slave cylinders failing? the clevis and pin? what are those? how would i lubricate them?
Ok. Now since I've never had to adjust a clutch pedal before, I read the instructions in the diagram but it sounds complicated. How often is the clutch pedal supposed to be adjusted on this car? Is there an actual interval to do it?
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You shouldn't really have to adjust it unless you replace a master cylinder...or sometimes when you install a new clutch.
I had to adjust mine cause it didn't want to go in 2nd at higher RPMs. I didn't do a huge adjustment as I marked it and did 1 full turn and it was enough.
I have the HR CMC but haven't put it on yet... will throw it on with the new clutch soon.
I have the HR CMC but haven't put it on yet... will throw it on with the new clutch soon.
I just hope it's not transmission related. If it is the cars going up for sale. But would hate to see it come to that because I love this car but how it's been shifting makes me hate it more everyday.
I'm not totally sure if its coming from the pedal or chasis. But my guess would be chasis. It's hard to diagnose due to the fact that when im driving, sometimes it does it when I shift and sometimes not. You can feel the engine move when it clunks sorta like bad motor mounts but they were all done around mid last year and I don't drive it hard at all. Too bad one of you guys aren't local, I'd let you drive it to see what I'm talking about.
Last edited by HondaLuv3r4Life; Aug 12, 2015 at 08:46 PM.
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Your clutch may not be disengaging all the way. The clunk you feel may be the transmission using its synchros to try to match the speed of all the moving parts while the driveline is still semi-connected.
Try adjusting the clutch master cylinder freeplay. There should be almost no freeplay. Up to maybe 6mm (1/4").
Too much freeplay will hamper clutch DISengagement and make for clunky shifting.
Going the other way too far, past the 0 point on freeplay, will cause the hydraulics to always slightly press on the clutch...which will make it wear.
Its very easy to adjust. A tip would be to NEVER use the metal jaws of a pliers to turn the master cyl pushrod. Scratching that surface will cause a hydraulic leak.
Go for about 1/4" of play. Its easier to feel than 0.
Does your clutch currently engage when the pedal is barely off the floorboard? Or is it more towards middle?
Try adjusting the clutch master cylinder freeplay. There should be almost no freeplay. Up to maybe 6mm (1/4").
Too much freeplay will hamper clutch DISengagement and make for clunky shifting.
Going the other way too far, past the 0 point on freeplay, will cause the hydraulics to always slightly press on the clutch...which will make it wear.
Its very easy to adjust. A tip would be to NEVER use the metal jaws of a pliers to turn the master cyl pushrod. Scratching that surface will cause a hydraulic leak.
Go for about 1/4" of play. Its easier to feel than 0.
Does your clutch currently engage when the pedal is barely off the floorboard? Or is it more towards middle?
<p>I did exactly what @B serious is explaining a while ago and it solved my problem.</p><p>My friction point was way too low also like too close to the floor and going into 2nd gear at higher RPMs was very hard. Now I don't have those issues.</p>
B serious, I'll check that. How do you check/adjust master cylinder free play? Which bolt or screw do I use to adjust it? I feel like a noob at this lol. Would it be locknut c in diagram above? Clockwise or counterclockwise?
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Referencing (counter clockwise) CCW and CW (clockwise) from the driver seat:
-Get under the dash. Find the clutch pedal lever. Attached to that lever is a rod that comes thru the firewall (its usually a gold-ish colour). The rod has a jam nut (12mm wrench).
-Turn the jam nut CW. That will loosen it from the clevis.
-With your fingers (this might suck), turn the rod CW to get LESS freeplay. CCW to get MORE freeplay.
-Feel the pedal movement with your hand. Freeplay is the measure of how far the pedal travel is inactive. You can feel it go from "dead" to active pretty clearly. It will always spring back to the home position....but there will be some dead movement until it engages the master cyl. You want about 1/4 to 1/2" of free movement at the pedal. Remember. CW for less play. CCW for more.
-Once you get it set, tighten the jam nut. Make sure the rod is not moving with the nut. Once the nut is tight, make sure your setting stayed the same. If it did not...then repeat the steps. If it did...you're done.
Try that out.
AFTER the setting is done...grease the clevis pin and rod with honda urea grease...or another brand of polyurea grease (try a bicycle shop).
The diagram up top should help you as well. Those instructions were off the top of my head.
Let us know how it goes!
******Edit: the diagram above shows how to adjust clutch pedal height. Not the same thing. Leave the height alone. Adjust freeplay only.
The jam nut I'm talking about is "Locknut C" in the diagram. The rod is attached to that jam nut.
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<p>I did exactly what @B serious is explaining a while ago and it solved my problem.</p><p>My friction point was way too low also like too close to the floor and going into 2nd gear at higher RPMs was very hard. Now I don't have those issues.</p>
<p></p><p> </p><p>It's in testing right now... figured you would be impressed by it haha</p><p>Btw here is the video I watched that helped make it easier for me to know what I was doing under there. It's very uncomfortable being under there so knowing what you are looking for and how to do it before hand made it a lot quicker for me.</p><p>
</p><p> </p>
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