CEL stays on after 2 seconds but no led light
I think I am having the same problem as before. I replaced the distributor a couple weeks ago because the engine cranked but never started and that seemed to fix it. Or so I thought.
Now I am getting the same symptoms as before, cranking but not starting. I noticed when the CEL does not turn off after 2 seconds the engine will crank but not start.
This is an intermittent problem that only happens maybe 1 out of 20 starting attempts. Does this mean that something in the ignition system is not checking out so the car will not start. Could this be the main relay? Because I do not hear it click after 2 seconds when the CEL stays on.
I sure hope this is not some hidden electrical short somewhere. Maybe the distributor I put in is bad?
Any clues?
Thanks
Now I am getting the same symptoms as before, cranking but not starting. I noticed when the CEL does not turn off after 2 seconds the engine will crank but not start.
This is an intermittent problem that only happens maybe 1 out of 20 starting attempts. Does this mean that something in the ignition system is not checking out so the car will not start. Could this be the main relay? Because I do not hear it click after 2 seconds when the CEL stays on.
I sure hope this is not some hidden electrical short somewhere. Maybe the distributor I put in is bad?
Any clues?
Thanks
Intermittent sounds like an electrical issue where the wires are connected sometimes, so the main relay does jump out as a possible issue and it will give you a solid CEL with no code. Pick one up for $40 and make sure you can return it to auto parts store if it doesn't work.
I would first check the ground wires at the thermostat housing to make sure the connection is clean and tight - these are the grounds for the main relay, ECU and some of the sensors - a faulty ground at that location will give you the symptoms you describe
It could also be the trans or valve cover ground. Check those for cleanliness and for faulty wires. More often than not, the thermostat house ground is the dirtiest.
Thanks, I did check the thermostat ground and it looked dirty, maybe I will remove it and clean real good. I did not check the trans ground, not sure where it is. And I did check the valve cover ground, the short wire that goes from the valve cover nut to the block looks quite bad and should be replaced. I will still pick up a new relay. The guy at orileys asked me how many pin connectors because he says there are 4 different ones. I wanted to pick it up on my way home, do you know which one is correct so I don't have to go home and then back to orileys?
Thanks
Thanks
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Transmission ground should be on a bracket connected to the tranmission, should be just below where the factory air box is if my memory serves me correctly.
Installed the new main relay last night. 55$ total. Also cleaned the ground to the thermostat. Didn't see any trans ground though. When I disassembled the old relay the solder contacts looked ok (I would not know if the looked bad). And all contacts seem to be working when applying voltage and testing resistence according to the FSM. Time will tell if this was the problem.
If it tested good, it could still be bad. There could be a bad contact still. As for the trans ground. There REALLY should be one there and that could be your issue. You can always just run some 10 gauge wire as a ground yourself. It should look like this:

It should be in your FSM too, the stock location that is.

It should be in your FSM too, the stock location that is.
With the main relay some of the solder joints may contain microscopic cracks that only present an inconsistent no start condition (can be related to temperature as the joint expands and contracts). If it was in fact the main relay the easy fix is to just heat up the solder or resolder as necessary.
Hope the clean grounds and new relay fix the problem, and definitely add the missing ground if you don't already have it in place.
Hope the clean grounds and new relay fix the problem, and definitely add the missing ground if you don't already have it in place.
For the sake of searchers in the future. You can just take a soldering iron and reheat the connections on the main relay and add a bit more filler if desired. If they are small cracks that appear with temperature fluctuation, this will solve that issue.
Wow that ground wire does not look familiar. I redid the ac system twice and never noticed it because it looks like it is right under the hi/low ac hoses. I will recheck again tonight. I have the 89 civic SI 1.6. If that matters?
Yup. You were correct, it is the ground wire that goes from the battery negative terminal to the body then to the clutch cable bracket mounted on the transmission. Never noticed it before.
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