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So I have a 91 si with a zc engine thats burning oil. I am in California and the smog guy doesnt want to smog it cause its zc. It did barely pass smog last year even with the new catalytic so I am doubtful it will pass again.
So I am trying to figure out where to go from here. I am hoping not to spend more then $500. Would picking up a d16a6 from pick n pull be worth it. Whats the minimum i would need to do to the engine if its in ok condition. I could also maybe get a d16z6 but if i cant find a smog guy that doesnt care that its obd0 i woull have to invest more to upgrade it to obd1.
And since its pick and pull i can get pistons and other stuff from other engines and as long as i put it all back together onto the engine i am buying it will cost me nothing
An A6 is $250 with trans at my pick and pull. That's the whole motor. An ECU should be $60 or so and you can run it OBD0.
Upgrading to OBD1 isn't tough, but I'm not sure on the emissions stuff. California requires you to have the correct ECU too, which can be difficult to source for some swaps.
If you can find a Z6 at the yard, grab it and the ECU. It isn't much different aside from the adapter harness in the cab.
I have the si tranny so I am guessing I might have the d16a6 ecu but will double check. Its 200 for an engine at my pick n pulls. So far I am planning to grab a d16a6 and either a z6 or y8 intake manifold( cause apparently they are better) and an integra throttle body. The smog guys I have been to only check the engine code but never the ecu code. Never rebuilt an engine before so just trying to get a general idea of my best options.
I smogged mine with the zc engine (just like the d16a6) - I have a 1991 Civic si. No issues. Have you tried another smog check place. I last smog check was two years ago. But from what I understand the Japanese engines are direct replacements.
Also if you are planning to got to pick-your-part (they have 1/2 off all parts this weekend coming up).
I smogged mine with the zc engine (just like the d16a6) - I have a 1991 Civic si. No issues. Have you tried another smog check place. I last smog check was two years ago. But from what I understand the Japanese engines are direct replacements.
Also if you are planning to got to pick-your-part (they have 1/2 off all parts this weekend coming up).
Thanks for the heads up on the pick n pull. Looks like I might have to go with the d16z6 since the only a6 I could find was in a burned crx. The smog guy I went to had a problem with the zc code since he expected the d16. I have to take it to a star certified station so a lot of those guys are a little more thorough.
So the sale starts Thursday and I decided to hit up all the pick n pulls to pick out an engine. One of the pick n pulls someone straight up took all the valve covers off every d and b series in the yard. Second yard also had nothing. But the third yard had a ex sedan that is mostly untouched. Its got the d16a6 with 290k on it, the car is undamaged so i am guessing something is up with the engine. Going back tomorrow to pull the knuckles off it. Anybody know what I should check on the engine to see if its worth pulling?
They also have a del sol with a d15b7 thats only got 137k miles on it which I am kind of tempted to go with instead of the a6.
The valve cover ripping is just to make a quick buck. It sucks for guys like you, but it happens.
As for checking the engine, it is tough to say. Bring a socket set, pull the plugs to inspect them, and then turn the motor over. Just make sure it doesn't bind at any point, that could be some sort of build up on the interior of the cylinder wall. OR, you can easily pull the head in a hour or so and just inspect the whole motor. A head gasket is about $150 if you go with ARP head studs. Maybe not worth it on a cheap motor. I don't know. Find a LS B18 or something like that.
The B7 sucks compared to the A6, but if you need a motor just grab one I guess.
Did you go to the pick a part in Monrovia, seen an EX Sedan as well. Was thinking of grabbing the knuckles as well to make some money on the side just didnt bring the proper tools.
The valve cover ripping is just to make a quick buck. It sucks for guys like you, but it happens.
As for checking the engine, it is tough to say. Bring a socket set, pull the plugs to inspect them, and then turn the motor over. Just make sure it doesn't bind at any point, that could be some sort of build up on the interior of the cylinder wall. OR, you can easily pull the head in a hour or so and just inspect the whole motor. A head gasket is about $150 if you go with ARP head studs. Maybe not worth it on a cheap motor. I don't know. Find a LS B18 or something like that.
The B7 sucks compared to the A6, but if you need a motor just grab one I guess.
The miles are just so much lower on the b7. If i was planning to turbo down the way would the b7 be that much worse, considering I am planning a rebuild.
And the b18 would cost me a bunch more. Axles, tranny, ecu, having to bar it.
Did you go to the pick a part in Monrovia, seen an EX Sedan as well. Was thinking of grabbing the knuckles as well to make some money on the side just didnt bring the proper tools.
Yeah forgot to bring a ball joint puller, left to buy one, came back and realized I forgot to bring a pipe to break off the axel nut.
Oh wow, you live in California. Forget about a turbo if you can't handle a B-series swap. Forget about having it be legal in California either. There is like 1 turbo kit that is carb approved. That B7 will probably blow up at 150 wHP. The D-series is usually good to about 200 wHP before you run into issues, but that one still has 150k on the clock. A LS motor will make 300 wHP without issues and you could probably find a decent one and run 200-250 wHP without opening it up at all.
Oh wow, you live in California. Forget about a turbo if you can't handle a B-series swap. Forget about having it be legal in California either. There is like 1 turbo kit that is carb approved. That B7 will probably blow up at 150 wHP. The D-series is usually good to about 200 wHP before you run into issues, but that one still has 150k on the clock. A LS motor will make 300 wHP without issues and you could probably find a decent one and run 200-250 wHP without opening it up at all.
Don't go turbo.
I dont want to pay a bunch on top right now to get the b series I just need the car running. If I get the b7 with only the 137k on it I can just put some arp headbolts in there and a thick head gasket and pass smog. Its not gonna need a full rebuild like the a6s that I find. And once its smogged the turbo does not need to be carb legal since I will have the 2 years till next smog. If I can get 140 hp out of it that would be great.
Stock turbo off an old WRX or Eclipse will more than likely be more than enough for your goal. Just make sure you have tuning capabilities weather you go big or small.
140 hp can be done with a NA B16A3 and you can use all the stock emissions stuff. It will likely be in the same price range as a proper turbo setup, maybe cheaper.
140 hp can be done with a NA B16A3 and you can use all the stock emissions stuff. It will likely be in the same price range as a proper turbo setup, maybe cheaper.
Well at 50% off tomorrow the b7 will only run me $100 and for like $300 total i will have it in the car and passing smog. While just a b18a1 will cost me an extra 200-300 just for the tranny, axles, ecu, linkage, rebuild depending on the condition of the engine i find.
So started pulling everything off the b7 to get it ready for tomorrow. I tried cranking it and about 3/4 of the crank its showing some resistance but i can crank it with one arm and the final 1/4 it cranks over easy. With the valve cover off I can hear a hissing noise while i crank it. Is this correct for a good engine? A different b7 I tried cranks over easy the whole way, so is something wrong?
If it cranks over easy you're not building compression which is a bad thing.
If it cranks over easily with the spark plugs removed, that is a good thing. But if the plugs are in that means you are leaking compression which is, as noted, bad. If the plugs are out and you run into resistance, that is likely rust starting on the cylinder or piston rings from water leaking into the cylinder while it has been sitting. That's not desired.
So it cranks over easy with the spark plugs out. Should I be worried about the oil in one of the plugs? And I got a stick and all the pistons go up and down
I would be worried. It doesn't mean anything necessarily. It could just be a bad spark plug gasket or whatever that rubber piece is called. Definitely worth the $20 for a valve cover gasket kit on eBay. Just replace it all.
No, I meant I would be worried. Every oil leak, every noise, everything that is out of place worries me. Anytime I feel or hear something out of the norm, I pull over to inspect my car. I'm that guy. I worry about oil leaks. Definitely get it fixed.
Trying to figure out the best option
