Hello, I own a 1994 Accord LX and have been trying to diagnose my cruise control for the past week or so and I have come up blank or rather I want to confirm my beliefs before spending too much time on an educated guess.

My problem and method has been the following:

1. Checked fuses corresponding to the issue(as well as every other fuse just in case.)
2. Checked the SET/RESUME switch, switch is okay.
3. Checked the main switch, it's good.
4. Checked/fixed the clutch switch(missing bumpers to initiate switch, previous owner jumped the clutch engaged switch to be always on) hoping that was the issue, it was not.
5. Checked the brake switch, it was okay.
6. Checked everything in the control unit wirning harness per the service manual troubleshooting and the following is what I found:

• BLK: continuity checks out
• LT GRN: Voltage checks out with the ign. switch and main switch on.
• LT GRN/ BLK and RED: Voltage to ground checks out for both the Set and Resume button.
• PNK: Continuity to ground checks out for clutch pedal release/depressed.
• ORN: I haven't been able to check this YET, but I am fairly certain it is okay since it is the VSS and my speedo works.(I am going to check this weekend or when I have a jack)
• GRY: Voltage to ground checks out for brake pedal pressed/depressed.
• GRN/WHT: Voltage checks out for brake pedal pressed/depressed.
• BLU/BLK: Cruise indicator light comes on when attached to ground.
• BRN/WHT, BRN/BLK,BRN: Here's my only issue, there is "open circuit" resistance for all of these meaning the actuator solenoid is faulty or there is an open in the wire.

I checked the actuator solenoid, it's good as far as resistance range, but before I attempt to run a wire from the actuator wiring harness to the control unit I have a few questions:

• Do I appear to be missing anything important?
• Are there any other places that I can test BRN/WHT, BRN/BLK and BRN under the dash?
• Equivalently, Is there any place to jump those three wires from without affecting anything else under the dash?
• Finally, Where is the point of origin on those three wires? It seems that they are not the same in the Actuator Solenoid wiring harness as I thought they would be a direct connection.

This is for a 1994 Accord LX coupe


Thanks again!

 

Did the car come OE with a manual trans or is it a swap? Did the cruise ever work or has it never worked since you owned it?

#4 in your post.....after replacing the "pad stop" for the clutch switch did you test the continuity of the pins for the cruise portion of it - B and C should have continuity when the clutch is "not pressed"

Next the brake light switch should be tested. The pins for the cruise.....and don't come back with the brake lights work fine....test them. I can't tell you how many times a miss-adjusted brake light switch would work the brake light "just fine" but not allow the cruise to work.

 

I didn't check the immediate connections but it seemed like the wiring harness to the control unit would tell me if it wasn't working, I'll check tomorrow morning and get back to you. Also, thanks for what sounds like the correct definition of the pad stop, only one guy at three different auto stores knew what I was talking about when I explained it.

 

From the CC control unit, the PNK wire should have continuity to ground when the clutch pedal is not pressed.

 

Hey sorry for the delayed response, it took me a while to actually get to it after changing a few other components. The brake and clutch switches work just fine. The resistances from the actuator solenoid are what I'm concerned with, they test fine at the actuator but I get an open circuit resistance at the wiring harness.

 

I have exactly same problem and diagnosis. Did you ever solve the problem?