Going to be restoring and doing a b series turbo swap in a 1989 honda civic sedan shell that I recently bought. Wanted to have a thread to track my progress and also gain useful knowledge from the community here.

Below is a list in the order of things I will be doing

1. B18 swap (not sure of which one I will use yet )
2. Setup turbo
3. Tires and Wheels
4. Tune
5. Body work and paint
6. Interior

 

You seem like you're very general about the build. You don't seem like you know exactly what you want so I will try to help before the other members rip you apart lol. What's your HP goal? Daily driving?

 

Yes EVO9GSR I am still trying to figure it out, I found a stroked b18a1 (not sleeved) with eagle rods, srp pistons, eagle crank. Thinking about buying it than selling the pistons to get lower compression pistons. But I posted the pictures in the main thread of the body, its all chipped and looks ruff from spray paint and 27 years of what ever its been through.

 

I'd go with it and keep the forged internals. If the static compression is below 11:1, I'd just run it. Myself and many other have had no issue with 10.5+:1 compression on stock internals (AKA stock blocks)

1. Any B18 will work. I'd go cheap and upgrade the internals if it has a nice block. A VTEC head flows so much better though. You make more power on less boost with a VTEC head.

2. Don't cheap out. Find a power goal (300 HP stock, 400 HP forged internals) and pick a turbo. You really want to size your turbo correctly. This is one of the most important parts of a really fun and quick turbo build. I'd go with something simple for the manifold, a mini ram or shorty (whatever they are called) are generally good. A log manifold is fine for a budget build too. Don't cheap out on the wastegate or blow off valve. I'd go tial or turbosmart or something like that. Match your downpipe to the turbo outlet and go with either a 2.5" or 3" exhaust. Injectors are cheap and you should match the flow rate to your HP goal. Same can be said about the fuel pump. I'd probably go inline but Walbro 255 lph pumps are just so common you can't go wrong with them. A simple catch can vented from the valve cover and PVC breather is a good idea too. Just don't cheap out and look for quality used parts and you can come in at a decent price.

3. Wheels are up to you, get some good tires though. If you are serious about tracking the car, I'd just get a separate set of track rims and tires and daily something a lot cheaper with better tread wear.

4. I'm not sure where you are located, but check out the turbo subforum for local tuners.

5. Start your body work now. It is a lot easier to clean up the engine bay and underside of the body without a motor. I'd strip the interior down and make it look good while you don't have as many lines ran.

6. I highly suggest sparco seats or maybe Del Sol seats if you want to go stock. I have del sol seats with iggee seat covers and love the crap out of them. I say keep the interior classy and practical. One of the last things I did to my car was redoing the headliner and it is a ton of fun to do a custom one. I'd save this for last because you can really enjoy the car and work on the interior at the same time.

Good luck mate.

 

I agree with freemanana. That engine you are thinking of picking up sounds like it would be great. If you plan on going turbo and want a head I have an GSR bare one I won't mind letting go. Just wanna see it go in good hands. Definitely clean the car up while it's like that. Try to work on trim pieces and just getting it to look newer. That's what I've been doing with my hatch.

 

I love 4 door EF's. Look forward in the build.

 

Keen to see how this goes man!! Just wondering, I noticed the bonnet opens all the way like EG/EKs do, just wondering if you can see what was done for this to happen? I've tried on my hatch but something restricts it from opening all the way..

Cheers!

 

Hey everyone I apologize for not updating you guys I've been super busy.

I picked up b18b1 engine that was fully disassembled come with forged Eagle crank and rods, SRP pistons (custom pistons) and Brian Crower springs an retainers. Currently it's at the machine shop it's already been heat soaked and pressure tested in which all of it passed, the owner of the machine shop is porting/polishing the head along with a 3 angle valve job.

Below are some pictures of everything. To be very honest me along with everyone else I have showed the pistons to are not sure if they are high or low compression. So any input about them with explanation for your answer would be greatly appreciated. The guy I got it from said he got it in a trade and knew nothing about it.

Thanks everyone

 

I call it the mechanic opening, every honda civic I have ever owned I was able to simply push the hood back as far as this in the picture.

 

Ahhh righr fair enough, yeah thats what Ive seen but on the EF I havnt been able to and havnt seen it done

 

Also your windshield wiper tubes can't be connected.

 

Not a problem if they are cracked like mine! haha

I have high hopes for this build!

 

Thanks Freemananana.

I am still trying to figure out what kinda compression I am going to have it really needs boost.

Figured out today that I have a standard bore.

Piston with ruffly:
.275 dome top piston .320 width of dome and .200 @ valve relief.

Looks like I may just have to wait till I get it all together and run a compression test on it

 

Still can't open it all the way, ugh really wanna have it do it..

 

Be careful, open it too far back and it will crack the corners of the windshield. Don't ask me how I know. 😵

 

Those are high comp Pistons. Low comp ones are kind of concave

 

Thanks

 

Put it together, mate the trans, put it in neutral, install the starter and compression test the motor outside of the car with 12v direct to the starter. I'm positive anything under 13:1 is fine. Tony did a high comp turbo build with over 13:1 compression and it was amazing. Just find a decent tuner who knows how to tune on a Honda platform and get whatever tuning software they like. If they like Hondata, use it. If they like Neptune, buy that.

 

My only questioning with that is will I be making the kind of power I would if it was low compression?

 

First off, I just realized how stupid my last post was. I was thinking compression as in motor health, not static compression. Just google that.

You'll make more power with higher compression on the same amount of boost. Low compression use to shine with archaic tuning solutions. A good tuner will not see detonation while tuning and will have no issues tuning higher compression. The idea that low compression makes more power doesn't make any sense.

 

Alright thanks buddy.
I went by the machine shop today to see my motor, she looked all lonely torn apart. But the good news is I will have it all done within the next two weeks if everything goes right. Shooting for at least 500hp

 

I'm scared for you. Shooting for 500 HP and asking some of the questions you are asking is a recipe for disaster. 500 HP is the general limits for the sleeves on a B-series motor. You can make more, but everyone pretty much agrees that getting near 500 HP is dangerous on stock sleeves. Ductile Iron or AT LEAST a CSS for 500+ HP.

Honda B-Series Compression Calculator by ZealAutowerks

Check that link out for finding your compression ration (static) of the motor with those pistons. I think your measurements need to be converted, but it will give you an IDEA.

I'm not sure what your budget is, but 300 HP is a good 'budget' build goal. 400 HP is modest and requires supporting mods and engine building. 500+ HP is getting deep in the pockets.

Obviously your mileage may vary. I've seen forged pistons on stock rods push 500+ HP.

 

I wanted to update everyone.

Currently this build is at a standstill with college starting back, I'm in need of right at 600 before I can continue classes for this semester. I'm gonna have to work my butt off to get that money first then I'll start back with this.

Also I have chosen to not boost it and go all motor for obvious reasons.

Can someone give me a parts list that isn't nothing over the edge but will still be a fun build to play around in?

 

An all motor build is going to run you around the same if you want to go as fast as you would with a 500 HP boosted motor. If you are cutting the boost and willing to go slower, there are some decent builds out there that are cheap.

My favorite is the B20V high compression build. You need a B20 block, a GSR head (B16 head works but the GSR cams are just better), 11:1+ compression pistons (do some research on which ones) and a cable trans (LSD optional). You can make about 180-200 NA wHP and a bit of torque. You'll need to find a tuner that is willing to work on cheap stuff such as ECTune or Chrome, but it will be worth it.

If you are just cutting and keeping what you have, I'd assemble the motor and have it tuned. You have no idea what you have there.

 

What do you mean I have no idea of what I have? Only asking cause if you think it would be better to boost it then I'll just wait and save money.