Hey guys i wanted to share this since there is absolutely no write ups on it, or at least i could find that show exactly how to install H22 LMA's in a B-series.

To rebuild the LMA's all you need is a pair of needle nose pliers, a sewing pin, and heavy duty rubbing compound. There is a video on youtube i followed and it worked amazingly. make sure you set some time aside to do this as the c-clips are insanely difficult to get out. just have patience and you will get them out. or be like me and bitch and moan the whole time . The video is titled "HOW TO: LMA rebuilt. here is the link.

And now for the full swap out to H22 LMA's in your B-series:

Tools:
Torque wrench
A socket set
Wrenchs
10mm Allen wrench socket
12mm bolt fine thread
2mm bolt fine thread
Screwdriver
Clean work table

Parts:
8 new LMA's from H22
.040" washers (ace hardware) Hardened steel is best, stainless is fine (like i used in this swap)
Zip ties or rubber bands

Torque Specs:
12mm cam cover bolts - 20 ftlbs.
10mm end bolts - 7.8 ftllbs.
Rocker shaft plugs (allen socket) - 46 ftlbs.
Timing belt tensioner bolt - 40 ftlbs.
Valve Cover bolts: 7.2 ftlbs.
Distributor bolts 17 ftlbs
Vtec solenoid 8.7 ftlbs.
Upper timing cover 7.2 ftlbs

Here is an explosion view of what will be taken apart:




Step 1: Remove your strut bar if you have one. Remove your Intake pipe and filter. Unplug the spark plug wires (I leave them attached to dizzy. for easy reinstall. otherwise firing order is 4-3-2-1 clockwise from the top left on dizzy.



Step 2: Remove Vtec solenoid's 3 bolts and unplug wire connectors and set aside, at the same dime take the Distributor off by removing the 3 bolts and set aside with solenoid. make sure you put a rag under these as oil will spill out. I reinstalled the bolts where they came from to prevent misplacing (will not be in your way)



Step 3: Remove valve cover bolts and pull off valve cover, do not use pry bar if stuck. in this case use a rubber mallet around the edges.



Step 4: Now that the valve cover is off and cam gears are exposed you want to bring the engine to top dead center. to do this put a socket on the overdrive pulley and turn counter clockwise (not clockwise) and keep an eye on the cams.
notice there is 2 white marks (indented) on the edge of the gears and the are also 2 marks that have an arrow and say "up" on the inner part of the gears. you want to spin the engine over with the socket on the overdrive pulley (remember COUNTER CLOCKWISE) until the 2 white marks are together and level with the top surface of the head, and the arrow (up) will be pointing up. Now you are at TDC and ready to start.




Step 5: Start loosening the bolts on the camshaft holder plates, do not remove the bolts. Leave them like in the photo below and you just pull the plate straight up and plate and bolts all stay together and set aside. keep not of exahast and intake sides, they have to go back in same location. set on its side and bolts will stay in the plate.



Step 6: Pull off camshaft holders 1 by 1 and set in order that they came. if you cant pull them out by hand use a rubber mallet to loosen bolds. remember to remove the 4 10mm bolts on the dizzy side. They are all #'d and have arrows but still put the aside like in photo to avoid improper assembly.



Step 7: Slide timing belt off. do not loosen the tensioner just slide it off and remove the cams. pull off cam seal and set with the rest.



Step 8: you can also use rubber bands, just make sure they are on nice and tight, i used zip ties. Wrap the zip ties around the Rocker arms and tighten so they will stay together.




Step 9: Remove the Rocker shaft sealing bolts, they are a 10mm allen. There is 2 on timing belt side and 1 on dizzy side, this is because the vtec solenoid is over 1 on the dizzy side.




Step 10: Look on the timing belt side from the top of the head. there are 2 female threaded dowels that hold the rocker shafts in place. we need these removed. use a 2mm bold and screw it into the top and yang them out.




Step 10: Use 12mm bold and thread it into the rocker shaft from the dizzy side, you should be able to easily pull this out....PULL SLOW. you want to grab each set of rocker arms one at a time as you pull the shaft out and set them aside IN ORDER. Do this for intake and exhaust sides.




Step 11: Remove LMA's, there is a total of 8...4 intake side and 4 exhaust side.



Step 12: Hopefully you have already rebuilt the H22 ons or just bought new ones. And found the .040 shims (washers). drop the washers in the bottom to the LMA bore and make sure it is flat and then lube the H22 LMA with a little oil and insert into bore. do this for all 8.





DONE. re-assembly in reverse order. When it comes to putting the cams back in. put the exhaust side in first and put the belt on where it should go. make sure white mark is even with the head and up mark is up. now install the exhaust cam at an angle so you can slide the belt on easily. you may need to adjust this a few time to make sure you get it right. this is actually very easy. i watch a Youtube video from evans and learned this. it avoids having to re tension the timing belt. here is the link to the video i watched.


Make sure you lube everything when you reassemble with a little oil. also here is the tightening sequence for the camshaft holder plates at 20 ftlbs.




I hope this helps. it was hard for me to find. the knocking noise is completely gone and engine idles better and revs alot nicer.

 

I forgot to mention to change the cam seal and use rtv sealant or hondabond on cam seal and all 4 end camshaft holders. also make sue the rubber o-ring is still installed on the center of the head where the center camshaft holder goes. otherwise your vtec will not work and it will through a vtec oil pressure code. i used a little sealant here also

 

Good write-up but I wouldn't advise using any sealant under center cam cap, fsm does not say to use any and if it squeezes into that area and breaks off it could get pushed up and lodged into the oil ports of the cam rails. and if the surface still had oil on it or it did not have time to cure it won't stay or do anything it was put there and intended to do. Also I never use paper towels because of the million micro fibers left behind from them, use saran wrap on a parts bench and keep a can of de-natured alcohol to clean parts with something that won't leave fibers behind.
I would also re-check valve lash after assembly, and then again after some time running this way to make sure vtec rocker wasn't seeing any abnormal wear.
Excellent write up tho.

 

what sthe advantage to use a H22 LMA? stronger spring?